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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

First time posting here although I've been a lurker since 2014 when I first got my Challenger. [EDIT: I guess I have posted here before. LOL]

So first off, I've got a 2014 Challenger RT Plus with Blacktop Package.

I'm here today to ***** about my brakes because they've been a joke to me since I first got the vehicle (literally same year I had to replace them already) and I've heard competing information (through reading various forums) as to why that is.

Maybe it's because I've cheaped out in the past and gotten shit brakes at Pep Boys, or maybe it's because I'm not braking hard enough/didn't break in the new brakes? Here's basically where I'm at right now:

This morning I took it in to a shop because it's been squealing for a while now and they're basically telling me that my rotors are glazed and I need all new rotors. Pads are fine but since I'm getting new rotors I might as well get new pads since the old pads will probably jack up the new rotors.

I don't know what to buy. I feel like if I just go with whatever they offer me as "OEM equivalent" this issue of squealing brakes is going to continue. Last time I got my brakes done (new rotors + pads) 3 months later they were squealing already. I feel like every year I have to do something with the brakes and it's getting to be a pain in the ass.

I knew going in expensive car = expensive maintenance but I didn't expect to have to do something with my brakes every year that I've had this thing.

As as of right now I'm ready to buy something online and just bring it into the shop to have them install it as brand new and this time around if I am supposed to, I will break them in myself.

Let me clarify a few points:

  • I am not a racer
  • This is my daily
  • I don't need the most ridiculously priced brakes that take me from 100 to 0 within 2 seconds.
Ideally I would like my brakes to last as follows (if this is unrealistic please tell me and let me know what I should expect instead!) :

  • Buy new rotors and pads
  • 2 years later buy new pads and turn the rotors for new pads
  • 2 years later buy new rotors and pads
  • 2 years later buy new pads and turn the rotors for new pads
  • repeat
HALP PLZ.
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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The squealing isn’t from the quality of the parts used in a brake job, it’s usually due to improper installation and/or failure to properly lubricate the moving parts with the appropriate grease.

My advice would be to either find a good brake place you trust or do the brakes yourself. If you do them yourself, make sure you do them right and use the proper tools, which includes the right kind of grease for the slide pins and such.

Beyond that, your operating conditions would be served just fine with the standard house brand brake pads and rotors. They will work just as well as the expensive ones for you.

It doesn’t matter how much you spend on the parts, they will squeak just as bad as the cheap ones if installed incorrectly.
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Also, if your brake fluid is the original factory fill, it’s 6 years old and polluted with water and other corrosive substances. The brake fluid should be flushed and replaced.

Failure to do this will eventually lead to sticking caliper pistons, if it hasn’t already. Know what sticking caliper pistons cause? That’s right, brake squeals...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also, if your brake fluid is the original factory fill, it’s 6 years old and polluted with water and other corrosive substances. The brake fluid should be flushed and replaced.

Failure to do this will eventually lead to sticking caliper pistons, if it hasn’t already. Know what sticking caliper pistons cause? That’s right, brake squeals...
I did the brake fluid flush at 35,000 miles (currently at 55,000 miles) back in June 2018. At the same time I replaced rotors and pads on the front brakes.

Any particular brand you would recommend from here on out while I figure out where to get these brakes done? Doing it myself is out of the question for now without a garage/place to do it.
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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It’s a crap shoot with the brick and mortar stores. That’s why I have started just doing my own. Maybe find a place that specializes in brakes and make sure there is a guarantee that any squeaks or squeals after service will be address free of charge with a subsequent visit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It’s a crap shoot with the brick and mortar stores. That’s why I have started just doing my own. Maybe find a place that specializes in brakes and make sure there is a guarantee that any squeaks or squeals after service will be address free of charge with a subsequent visit.
The place I went to this morning did offer me a 2 year warranty if I purchase rotors and pads from them, but they were offering me Duralast GT Rotors and pads for $1,300 (material cost only).
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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The place I went to this morning did offer me a 2 year warranty if I purchase rotors and pads from them, but they were offering me Duralast GT Rotors and pads for $1,300 (material cost only).
That seems really high for parts only. I’m guessing that 2 year warranty is factoring into the cost quite a bit.

maybe a way to cut down on the cost Is to isolate which end of the car is squealing and have them only do those two brakes
 

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2016 R/T Scat Pack
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I really liked the Powerstop Z23 pads, drilled/slotted rotor kit I had on my oLe 2010 RT.
 
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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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The squealing isn’t from the quality of the parts used in a brake job, it’s usually due to improper installation and/or failure to properly lubricate the moving parts with the appropriate grease.
I’ll have to respectfully disagree with you.....

Having worked in a retail tire and auto care environment for close to 20 years through 2010, the quality of the parts has EVERYTHING to do with it. The reason there’s so many complaints for squealing noises in the aftermarket segment are generally due to the composition of the friction material, and the price point of some of these friction materials often times ends up being the deciding factor when a person chooses their brake pad purchases.

From organic brake pads to semi-metallic brake pads to ceramic brake pads....there will be a decent amount of noise level variances amongst these if one doesn’t go back with what is spec’d as OE.

Same can be said for brake rotors as well......premium rotors are built out of better material and are of an OE thickness when new. Economy rotors are built out of shitsteel (bet you guys never heard that metallurgical term before) and may be several thousands of an inch below spec in thickness, new, right out of the box.
 

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2016 Challenger RT Plus
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I second the Powerstop pads and rotor kit. You can either upgrade for slightly better braking performance or get OEM size. I haven't personally used them myself (yet) but I've heard great things. Planning on getting a set in the future.
 

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2011 392 SRT, 2010 R/T Classic, 2019 R/T Plus, 2016 SXT Plus
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I just did the Powerstop Z23 kit this Sunday (all around). Cost me a little over $350 by doing it myself. There was some frustration, and it was a solid workout, but I got it done and the car stops way better now (It was a used 2016 SXT with 52K I just bought). The old pads maybe had 20K miles left, but the rotors were horrible and I couldn't stand grinding to every stop.
 

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I installed the Z26 pads last year and about 3 years ago the R1 Concepts R1 Carbon GEOMET drilled and slotted. It's been a solid setup. The rotors are about $533 for all 4 corners and pads at about $76 per axle. So for under $700 you'll do all 4 corners.
995063
 

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2011 392 SRT, 2010 R/T Classic, 2019 R/T Plus, 2016 SXT Plus
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My Z23's were 1/2 the price. Just bought and installed this past week. Maybe the price has gone down?
 

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So this is the price from American Muscle so the front are about $10 more then the rear. The Z23 are about $10 less then the Z26s. Price are for my 2016 Scat Pack...

995064
 

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I can say wheels stay pretty dang clean with the Z23.
 
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