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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my car brand new in 2010 I first put Kenne Bell supercharger kit on the car drove it for a few years and now I want to build a 426ci stroker out of my 6.1L. I'm planning on upping the boost from 8lbs to 12.5lbs and I'm going to be using a NOS 2 stage plate system kit. I already have a somewhat upgraded fuel system for the blower. I have a booster hooked up to the stock fuel pump and 80lb fuel injectors. I know the rear end is going to need to be beefed up. I found a 1400hp rear diff kit with 1400 HP axles, so the rear diff is covered I think?
I have a few questions like what kind of cylinder heads to use. Are the stock 6.1 heads good enough? Or do I need something that flows a little more air? I know I'm going to need a tune and the factory Tremec 6060 is going to need to be upgraded. I want to keep the car a manual any idea's on what to do with the transmission? I'm sure I'm overlooking a hole bunch of stuff. What do I need to do to make this setup produce around 1000hp on around 100 octane fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I guess what I really need to know is what kind of cylinder heads to use and what kind of camshaft I would need? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I would say on the trans go to RPM transmissions. I got a level Vl about 6 years about and have whipped the snot out of it and have nary an issue one. INHO about the best trans out there.
 

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Thank you Brucer41 for the transmission advice! I watch a lot of of 1320 video and Cleetus McFarland videos they're big fans of RPM Transmissions. I know it's a great company case they hammer there trannies with over 1400hp and they stay together. Do you have a manual or automatic?
 

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The 6.1 Heads are fine for a stroker build, send them out for CNC and hand finishing to perk them up. I used HHP/BES

I would do a full return fuel system for 1000HP goals. The LU80 Ford Racing 80lb injectors are good for 1000hp as they flow almost 100lbs at 59psi rail pressure.

My 6 speed is still stock and works perfectly on my build. I have beat on it at 13 psi 885 rwhp no issues ( I have not beat on it yet at 19 psi on the slicks yet so issues may arise; 1122RWHP 94 octane with alc injection )
RPM is good, Tick performance is also really good, I have used them on other builds many times and will likely use them in the future on my 6 speed as they are better cost. RPM however sends you a transmission so minimal down time, you send yours to Tick for the build, they are quick though with free shipping to you lucky guys in the US.

Make sure you have a good clutch. ( I use a Spec Twin Disc and love it, car drives awesome but will admit the first 500 miles of street driving I almost had buyers remorse because it is aggresive, after break-in it has been awesome)

Differential will certainly need upgrading on a 6 speed car, I run the Strange HD bolt through case on a DSS 9" Do all the bushings in the cradle and rear!
 

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I am using the Procharger F1A-94. As for your cam choice, I spec'd my own but any of the vendors should be able to point you in the right direction. Again Bruce from HHP helped me out with other builds and they work fantastic, one twin turbo car and the other is a 426 with a 4.2 KB both using HHP grinds and both making almost 1000whp on pump gas with alc injection with 16 /17 psi boost levels, both driven extensively on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for your help. I had no idea where to start. I think the rear end and the fuel system is a good place to start.
Getting the car to hook is another problem I need to take care of. I have a hop not kit in the rear. When I first bought the car I destroyed a rear end in less then 5000 miles because of wheel hop. I also dropped the rear Brembos and bought a set of Wilwood's for rim clearance. I'm having a really hard time finding a set of rear rims that aren't 20's that fit right. I tried my father's set of 18" wields that fit his 2017 Charger Hell Cat. They fit my 2010 Challenger perfect when the car is in the air. I put the car back down went to leave for the track and it was like my E brake was on. The inside edge of the rims were rubbing on the hop not kit just enough to be a problem. What did you do to solve your traction problems?
 

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Honestly, once I lowered it 2" most of the wheel hop disappeared, put in the rear poly bushings and have never had hop again I run a set of Welds for racing. 17 X 5 front and 17 X 10 Rear with 28.0 10 17 hoosiers. I also built a clutch slipper to adjust for track and consistent 60' On the street I run 305 35 20 MT SS, spinning is controllable but still unavoidable for the current power levels.

The following is a my dyno at 13 psi( Supercharger hardly spinning ) / 94 octane with alc injection. The 6.1L Heads work great.
 

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With a N/A engine man empties the cylinder but only God can fill it.

With a supercharged engine man both empties and *fills* the cylinder. What this means in the context of what you are asking is supercharging can over some some head flow shortcomings. So rippon09's advice regarding the stock heads is good advice.

You might find this an interesting read:

Hemi Head Test - Mild & Wild - Hot Rod Network
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Dwhip. I was looking at the HHP Racing Triple Pump Return Style AQP Fuel System. Boy what a cool fuel system I can't wait for the weather to warm up so I can build my car. Thanks guys I really had no clue where to start or what I really needed. You guy's are awesome!
 

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I think the TR6060 will be fine. The GT500s run the TR6060 and can handle that much HP and TQ with boost without a tranny upgrade or swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Rockster I had no idea the stock heads flow so well. A port and polish job saves a lot of money over buying new heads. That was good reading thanks.
 
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