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I think that is a pretty good deal. It looks to be a nice car. I've seen older ones for around that price if not more with around the same amount of miles.
Is that a good price for your area?

30mpg on the highway lol yeah right.
I do not have one that year so I can't comment about that year's issues, if any could be rust, water pump, radio, etc.
 

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I think that is a pretty good deal. It looks to be a nice car. I've seen older ones for around that price if not more with around the same amount of miles.
Is that a good price for your area?

30mpg on the highway lol yeah right.
I do not have one that year so I can't comment about that year's issues, if any could be rust, water pump, radio, etc.
I don't see why 30 mpg isn't feasible. As long as his commute is downhill both ways with a tailwind.
 

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Go into the setup options and select UK miles and gallons . . . our miles are the same length, give or take, as yours in the US, but our gallons are real ones :) so you will get better mpg :)

Still terrible compared to most cars over here, and at our petrol prices . . . No idea why the option is there as it was never approved for sale here.
 

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Seems like it would be okay, but take it to a mechanic that you trust to give it a thorough inspection. Never place your faith in the "multi-point inspections" that dealerships advertise for their used cars. That's how I ended up with an SRT 392 that had this rusted, clapped-together "custom" exhaust on it. And a bad water pump.

994980
 

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In 2014 I experienced a problem with my car (not the Challenger) on the interstate on my way from Illinois to the Carlisle Chrysler Nationals. I was about 20 - 25 miles west of Hagerstown when I had to pull off the highway. I had the car towed to the nearest Chrysler dealership which was Fitzgerald in Hagerstown. We arrived at Fitzgerald about 4 p.m. on Thursday. They took my car, drove my wife and I to a local car rental place, and had my car ready for me to pick up Friday afternoon. The lug nuts on 1 wheel had worked loose with one coming off and a stud shearing off. The wheels had been rotated over 5,000 miles earlier; so, I've no idea what caused this. Anyway, the point is I can't offer an opinion on the car you're considering; but, I believe the dealership would be one that will take care of you after the sale. They had no idea who I was and took care of me in excellent fashion. (y)
 

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...30mpg on the highway lol yeah right....
Those are the things that weird me out. It is so easy to verify the expected MPG as it is right there on the window sticker. When a simple detail like that is wrong, it makes me question the accuracy of the rest of the details they are presenting.
 

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MPG, Top Speed, 0-60, etc. are all done under exacting, repeatable methods, even including temperature, elevation, humidity, etc. Back in the day they'd fudge a bit for bragging, or a lot for HP rating (lower RPM number, etc.). But MPG and fleet CAFE numbers are huge for the manufacturer, so they use the methods that will result in the highest numbers. They can be replicated in real life, but it takes the right situation.

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Thinking of buying a used Challenger as a daily driver. I found a high mileage RT I am considering. I would be putting 90 miles a day on it Monday through Friday. Price seems high but doable.

Depreciation is the biggest cost of owning a vehicle so buying a used car and a higher mileage one at that means you pay less for the car. Thus there is less value to depreciate.

A newer or new car at 90 miles a day is going to depreciate quite a bit. One of my cars averaged 54 miles a day over 16 years. The depreciation was around 90%.

For price -- I didn't look a the link you provided -- check with www.kbb.com and www.nada.com for the whole sale/trade in value of the car. This is what the seller has in the car and where you start your negotiation.

But first you need to be sure the car is worth owning at any price. A thorough used car check out is called for.

Something like this...
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Used Dodge Challenger check out:

My general advice is to visit the used car cold, open the hood and check the oil level, leaving the hood open. Give the other vital fluid levels a visual check at least to ensure none are low. If vital fluids are low this could be a warning flag.

In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.

Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.

If available, call up the Performance Pages app and view coolant and oil temperature and pressure and battery voltage. You want these displayed as you get first a test ride then have a test drive.

Let the engine idle and get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires. Ideally they should be factory sanctioned tires and in good condition. Check the brakes, look at the rotors for signs of damage/excessive wear. A lip around the rotor outer diameter is a sign of rotor wear.


Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. At the front carefully check the radiator fasteners for any signs of wrenching.

After some few minutes of the engine idling -- the longer the better -- and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving. Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.

While a passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.

With an automatic I recommend having the driver do a k-turn with the engine/transmission cold to see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.

And with the engine/transmission now up to temperature you do the k-turn to once again see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

The pre test ride/drive idle time coupled with the 15 mile test ride and then 15 mile test drive serve -- among other things -- to have the engine run nearly an hour. This gets the engine and drive train up to operating temperature.

Leaks are more active when things are warm.

Also, it gives the engine controller time to run through its readiness monitor checks. If it finds a problem it will turn on the CEL and log an error code.

(A sophisticated used car buyer will have an OBD2 code reader and after the test drive while the engine is still running using the OBD2 tool query the engine controller for any active/pending/permanent error codes, and the status of the readiness monitors. Now in some cases not all readiness monitors are set to complete. This can be due to the test ride/drive not adhering to the drive cycle most conducive to getting the engine controller through its readiness monitor test phase.)


After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.

At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Dodge dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.

This gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.

You want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars generally look good on the lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.

Be aware and adjust your price accordingly that the car probably needs some attention. Unless the seller can supply paper work the services are current or you can run the VIN through a Dodge dealer and get a list of services budget for various services that are due.

As I touched upon above, tires should be in good condition but if not if the tires are worn unevenly budget for an alignment assuming wear is not severe enough to suspect the car's bent. In this case you don't want an alignment you want to walk away from the car.

Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something negative about this car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.
 
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