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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

As I mentioned in my intro post the other day, I'm considering making my first challenger purchase. I sort of have my heart set on one of those contusion blue/pitch black Mopar limited editions. I really love the way everything looks with this package as much as what's under the hood. However, if I talk myself out of spending the extra 10k on this package I may just go with a pitch black scat pack and order when the 2018s are available since I can't seem to find any 2017s that have the exact combination of all the options that would make me completely satisfied.

I was wondering if you all could help give me some advice on how to make sure I'm getting the best deal? I'm in my 30s and have never purchased a new car from a dealer before... I bought a used truck from a dealer when I was 19, and while I think I got a good price, I definitely experienced them trying to screw me (calling me back to tell me they couldn't finance me anymore... but *could* do it at 19.99%... I ended up having a friend's dad who was an attorney call and yell at them until they backed off... so, I'm not very trusting of dealers).

Anyhow... what are your pro-tips for making an order from a dealer and not getting taken advantage of?

1) I assume with a limited edition package like the 2017 Mopar there really isn't much wiggle room. Am I wrong?

2) If I go the other route and wait to order new next year, I really have the same question, how do I make sure I'm getting a fair deal while still ordering the exact car that will make me happy (and that I plan to keep for the next 15+ years)?

3) Are there specific questions I should ask/documents to request I see?

4) Anything I'm not thinking of?

Thanks all!
 

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Go in as excited as if you were buying a new kitchen blender. Do not play into their games.
You work for the money so don't give them the ability to rob you blind. I just get up and say bye when they start getting stupid which is sadly soon after you walk in.
 

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Heading out the door goes a long way. Do not be afraid to leave.
 

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Do your research, find out what the car is actually costing the dealer, and then make an offer that allows them some profit without letting yourself be ripped off. And like others have said, don't get excited. Be willing to leave, and actually do it.

Get prequalified for the loan at a credit union before you go. Let the dealer try to beat the rate you already have, but don't let them bully you into anything.

Pay close attention to what else they try to tack on. Don't let them get away with adding warranties/undercoating/sealants/etc. to the paperwork without you agreeing to it. I've seen them claim they will not sell a car without that. Walk away if they want you to pay for that. Walk away if they add those things and then act like you're being a jerk if you tell them to remove it.

Basically, know what you want, what you're willing to pay, and be willing to walk away. Don't fall prey to the mind games.
 

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2015 SRT, 6 Speed, Sublime Green
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If financing through the dealer, Never, Ever, Never, Ever base your price on monthly payment amount. Negotiate the base price of the vehicle .If you tell them what you can pay a month they will find something that works....not for you, but for them.

Take someone with you that can keep you grounded. Its amazing how new car smell can affect the normal thinking process. Good Luck....
 

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If financing through the dealer, Never, Ever, Never, Ever base your price on monthly payment amount. Negotiate the base price of the vehicle .If you tell them what you can pay a month they will find something that works....not for you, but for them.

Take someone with you that can keep you grounded. Its amazing how new car smell can affect the normal thinking process. Good Luck....
Agreed!

With extensive automotive sales experience they train the salesman to close you on a payment so they can maxload the front or back end depending on how they can achieve the number youre closed at.

Focus on the trade #, SP of vehicle, and APR.

If you can negotiate your bottom line, the payment amount shouldnt matter. Also figure gap into your backend #s Wouldnt want to leave without it!


Also where are you located? Here in Texas you can sign anything you want, you techically dont own the car until it you drive it off the lot.
 

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Join Costco or a credit union (highly recommend USAA). You get pre-negotiated rates and applicable rebates. Order your car the way you want it. Takes 8 weeks or less. Ordered my T/A plus on March 21, and delivered May 12. Don't add the sealer, undercoat, warranties, and such. It over priced. Between being on here and all the info available online you will know if you have a problem child car or not long before the factory warranty wears out. Can also buy the same warranty same price later on, just an FYI. What you see below was my out the door on my car thru USAA. Walked in the dealer at 9am out the door in :45 mins. So you know if you goes this route, it will say in small print "in stock sales only". My dealer said wasn't a problem. and you may have to put down a deposit. 300 on CC what I did, just make sure to get in writing "refund upon delivery".

Example..

2017 Challenger T/A Plus msrp 44345

Discount USAA/rebates -7985

Total 36360

Total+ST. Taxes+ tags 38024 $0 down
 

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I would also like to suggest that you visit more than one dealership. Try to make the best deal you can at one and then, do the same at another. That way you can compare the numbers and make the best informed decision.
 

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I would also like to suggest that you visit more than one dealership. Try to make the best deal you can at one and then, do the same at another. That way you can compare the numbers and make the best informed decision.

If you are buying new go to dodge.com. Check their inventories and prices on the different dealers. The cars all as described. BIG price differences. I will never drive to my purchase dealership again hopefully. 99 miles one way. Great deal. Got to do what you got to do. Shop.
 

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Its weird, I negotiated hard on two cars and even with walking out I could not get the dealers to go below the affiliate price minus the incentives. One of them I walked out on after they started paperwork and the other was a dealer 10 hours away I was willing to drive to. Spent 10 days fighting with that guy. I turned it down about 12 hours before I was planning to make the trip down. I guess I didn't have leverage if I was willing to drive that far, but all he had to do was make a fair price and he had an effortless sale. Instead he tried to feed me BS and lies about a car I knew more about than he did.

Two weeks later I go into a dealer and look at a car that just came off the truck. Without haggling his price was affiliate price, minus incentives, minus another $2200, better interest rate and a lower doc fee than the others. Their offer on my trade in was a little lower but still a way better deal, without any back and forth games.

The advice here is good. Worry about price of the car not payment, they will bring you a monthly payment based on an 84 month loan. One step at a time, bailing at any point is just fine, you're in charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everyone for the great advice.

@burn133 pointed out the Fighting Chance system which looks like a worthwhile $50 investment, even if used in combination with many of the other tactics here, such as the website @Cuda340 suggested which I also found very helpful. (https://www.autocheatsheet.com/)

I think combining those with some of the other solid advice, joining a credit union/arranging pre-approved financing, and being ready to walk at any moment will leave me in good shape.

Oh, and @ChallengerCharlie to answer your question, I currently live in Philly... However, I may need to relocate to the midwest for work for at least a year and a half, which leads me to another question I have... I'll likely be living in an apartment without access to a garage. I see a lot of people who talk about putting their cars in storage for the winter. This car will be my daily driver... should that give me pause about parking it outside exposed to the elements? Or will I be okay putting a cover on it at night, or if I won't be driving for a few days?
 

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Its weird, I negotiated hard on two cars and even with walking out I could not get the dealers to go below the affiliate price minus the incentives. One of them I walked out on after they started paperwork and the other was a dealer 10 hours away I was willing to drive to. Spent 10 days fighting with that guy. I turned it down about 12 hours before I was planning to make the trip down. I guess I didn't have leverage if I was willing to drive that far, but all he had to do was make a fair price and he had an effortless sale. Instead he tried to feed me BS and lies about a car I knew more about than he did.

Two weeks later I go into a dealer and look at a car that just came off the truck. Without haggling his price was affiliate price, minus incentives, minus another $2200, better interest rate and a lower doc fee than the others. Their offer on my trade in was a little lower but still a way better deal, without any back and forth games.

The advice here is good. Worry about price of the car not payment, they will bring you a monthly payment based on an 84 month loan. One step at a time, bailing at any point is just fine, you're in charge.
Good job!!!
 

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Thanks everyone for the great advice.

@burn133 pointed out the Fighting Chance system which looks like a worthwhile $50 investment, even if used in combination with many of the other tactics here, such as the website @Cuda340 suggested which I also found very helpful. (https://www.autocheatsheet.com/)

I think combining those with some of the other solid advice, joining a credit union/arranging pre-approved financing, and being ready to walk at any moment will leave me in good shape.

Oh, and @ChallengerCharlie to answer your question, I currently live in Philly... However, I may need to relocate to the midwest for work for at least a year and a half, which leads me to another question I have... I'll likely be living in an apartment without access to a garage. I see a lot of people who talk about putting their cars in storage for the winter. This car will be my daily driver... should that give me pause about parking it outside exposed to the elements? Or will I be okay putting a cover on it at night, or if I won't be driving for a few days?

I'm in South Jersey and just had a great experience at Reedman's in Langhorne. They have a handful of R/Ts on their lot with both engines but no MOPAR edition of course. If you are looking for someone to order an 18 from I can give you a name of a guy I thought was a real decent guy.


As for daily driver, I drove my 5.7 M6 as a daily driver for 4.5 years, 3 of which I lived in an apartment. No problems, the car held up outstanding. Just bought a new one because my job location changed last year and I needed the automatic for a 90 mile daily commute, which includes time on the dreaded Schuylkill.

To each their own but there is no reason that you have to hibernate one of these cars for the winter. They are great commuting cars, extremely comfortable and meant to be driven.
 

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If you are buying new go to dodge.com. Check their inventories and prices on the different dealers. The cars all as described. BIG price differences. I will never drive to my purchase dealership again hopefully. 99 miles one way. Great deal. Got to do what you got to do. Shop.
I used the Dodge site a ton in the past few months. It only goes in a 200 mile radius so I maped out some other zip codes to increase my search radius.

It can be a bit goofy with its filters. Some are just broken The blacktop option does not work on it when combined with STP, but if you select WRT wheels (not available with BT) it gives you blacktop with the BT wheels.

I recommend that after you launch the search you un-check as many items as you can, like the tires and radio type. It will sometimes filter things you may be looking for.
 
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