Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All can anyone help me , got new lifters to put in, do they need to be soaked in oil first ???
and is there any good tips as to putting them in or just follow the work shop manual instrutions
Appreciate your advise
 

·
Registered
2015 RT 5.7 M6
Joined
·
8,846 Posts
Yes, lifters need to be soaked...you do not want to install them dry. I even try to pump them while they are submerged in oil....after they have soaked. No special tricks when installing so follow per service manual and don't forget to use some quality assembly lube.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forum...rings-508306-post6810162/?508306=#post6810162

Why are you installing lifters...bigger cam....bad lifter?
 

·
Registered
2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
Joined
·
2,987 Posts
Second what ChallyTatum said. I was always taught to put the new lifter in a container of clean engine oil -- same oil as in the engine -- then use a wooden dowel to avoid marring the socket in which the push rod resides to work the lifter and pump it up fill it with engine oil to where it was impossible to compress.

This fills the lifter with oil and confirms to some level of confidence that at least it works as intended. (If it doesn't pump up there is a problem with the lifter.)

Camshaft makers often supply a can of special assembly lube to provide extra protection during initial engine start. Not sure where one might get this. Maybe buy a can of lube from a cam maker or the maker of the lifters?

With new engines with new cam and lifters the SOP was to start the engine and once it fired up to raise RPMs up to 2K or so and hold for some minutes. This ensured sufficient oil supply to the cam and lifters and letting the engine run helped the cam lobes and lifters develop the ideal surface "finish" to deliver thousands of hours of engine run time with good cam/lifter service life.

Maybe the lifter maker offers some guidelines on what assembly lube to use and how to run the engine to "break in" the new lifters, etc?
 

·
Registered
2015 RT 5.7 M6
Joined
·
8,846 Posts
Just one more point to add, it may be a good idea on first start up to hold the pedal to the floor (tells the PCM not to fire injectors - flooded engine mode) and crank the engine over until oil pressure builds.
 

·
Registered
2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
Joined
·
1,236 Posts
The only time you don't want to soak the lifters is when doing initial setup and checking for tolerances.
I've never done anything more than install them with plenty of assembly lube and prime the oil pump (on older engines).
Roller lifters have very little friction compared to flat tappet by design, there really is no wear pattern to develop or break-in time per se.

Check for correct engagement of the lifter retainers and good oil pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
ChalleyTatum,Rockster and chizzle1, thank you for that info very pleased , it so happens when I put back the new piston and rods ( they are now forged ) the original lifters were left in, but was told to replace them, anyhow I did not its only done 9500 miles Yes I got that noisy tick on a lifter I have now bought a full set to put in so I will sock them as you said,
also when we installed the rockers back ( I was not there at the time gone for a pee!!!) the engineer carefully put them back, also he turned the Crank to ease install, looking at the workshop manual it said DO NOT turn Crank over when fitting the rocker arms too late then!!!
this may of contributed to the ticking lifter ??
Thank guys for your help
cam is the original not changed
 

·
Registered
2015 RT 5.7 M6
Joined
·
8,846 Posts
I noticed when my car was stock, that there was noticeable valve train noise around 2k rpm (sounded like an industrial sewing machine - just a bunch of chatter and quite embarrassing when downshifting in a tunnel). Dealership claimed it was normal which I refused to believe because I had another vehicle with the same engine that did not have such a noisy valve train. I suspected the lifter preload was insufficient so I purchased some push rods that were not only better quality but were slightly longer. After installing the push rods, the noise went away. Here is the link to the original thread.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forum...plus-5-7-6-speed-stock-pushrod-length-564322/

Basically my factory push rods were garbage
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/7999170-post29.html

Not saying it is your problem but I would look into your lifter preload.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Challeytatum
again big thank you, in fact I have new rocker arms and new push rods do you think it might be a good idea to change all together with the new lifters?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
ChalleyTatum----------- its 10 19pm here in the UK going to get some zzzzzzzzzzzzzz if you reply will contact tomorrow about 9pm my time
thanks to all again
 

·
Registered
2015 RT 5.7 M6
Joined
·
8,846 Posts
Challeytatum
again big thank you, in fact I have new rocker arms and new push rods do you think it might be a good idea to change all together with the new lifters?
If you have the new lifters already...why not, it's not like they are flat tappet and have to be worn in. If you don't have new lifters no sense in buying new ones.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top