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New Member/ Questions on repair

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Hey how are you all doing. I’ve been watching, searching, reading forums here for a while and I finally decided to make an account a couple of minutes ago😁. A quick introduction is I’m from Arizona and I have a 2015 challenger SXT. (Sorry for the quick and simple intro). I’ll post a quick pic below too😁

I’ve been trying to find the answers to my questions on the forum for a while but here we go. A couple of weeks ago I had my ABS and ESC (Electronic Stability Control) light on and I ended up changing all four wheel sensors and the ABS light cleared but the ESC light continued to stay on and it still is. I’m having a hard time figuring out how to clear it or how to solve the problem. My other problem is when I first got the vehicle about a year ago the steering wheel buttons worked just fine. Eventually they would part of the time and then after a while they never worked again. The steering wheel doesn’t light up either. Eventually though, my horn also went out. It still honks when I lock it but I can’t honk at the idiots who are on their phones on the road anymore. I was wondering how to approach this. The car almost has 60,000 miles so I don’t think the clock spring would go out this soon, or would it? My plan was originally to take the steering wheel apart and see if a connection or a cable is loose. Before I do that I wanted to get input if any of you have ever had this problem and how you fixed it? Same thing with the ESC light as it doesn’t turn off and it doesn’t give any codes either on a code reader.
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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
5,620 Posts
If one does not have access to a test tool that can extinguish the ESC light it may extinguish on its own if the reason for it being on was a bad wheel speed sensor. However, it can take some driving.

There may be a way to turn the light off not with a test tool or by driving. This may be covered in the owners manual. I vaguely recall at least this was reported by some owners pressing and holding the ESC button for some seconds (6?) will reset the system and turn the light off. If the light doesn't go off then this technique doesn't work or there is an underlying problem that keeps the light on.

The symptoms you describe sure have me suspecting the clock spring. 'course, a high confidence diagnosis is called for. 60K miles doesn't mean anything. Other items, systems, have failed in less than 60K miles and there is nothing special about the clock spring.
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