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I have a diesel and I think its time for something more economical. I have put a lot into my truck aftermarket wise and just want something different. I have a few questions and any help is much appreciated!

1. Can they take a beating? 6.4 vs 6.1 either one of them stronger built?

2. What are their weaknesses? motor/drivetrain wise and stuff like visibility,traction,comfort etc

3. How are both auto and manual transmissions? All preference or is one better than the other?

4. How long will the average car go before it starts to fall apart?

5. Real life MPG for both engines?

6. Do they offer different gearing? Opinions?

7.Anything else to know,check or look for before shopping around??


Thanks so much for all the help in advance!:thanks::thanks:

Cant wait to finally own a challenger after years of waiting!!!!:eusa_dance:
 

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I have a diesel and I think its time for something more economical. I have put a lot into my truck aftermarket wise and just want something different. I have a few questions and any help is much appreciated!




Thanks so much for all the help in advance!:thanks::thanks:

Cant wait to finally own a challenger after years of waiting!!!!:eusa_dance:

Here is a great article on what will break and at what power levels. What Breaks On 2008 To 2011 Dodge's - Got An

Transmission is preference though the auto WILL be consistently faster on the drag strip and a bit easier on the axles..

MPG, I average about 16 combined driving like a maniac 98% of the time. When it was new and I made the 150 mile drive home from OH she averaged 24.5 on the highway
with the cruise set at 73 MPH and the AC on.

No idea how long it will be before it falls apart. Just turned 28K miles, nearly on my fourth set of tires, driven hard (daily except in snow) no issues yet.
 

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I have a diesel and I think its time for something more economical. I have put a lot into my truck aftermarket wise and just want something different. I have a few questions and any help is much appreciated!

1. Can they take a beating? 6.4 vs 6.1 either one of them stronger built? Equivalent

2. What are their weaknesses? motor/drivetrain wise and stuff like visibility,traction,comfort etc.. trans and axle's more so after mods and on the 6spds

3. How are both auto and manual transmissions? All preference or is one better than the other? All up to preference. I wanted an auto so wife could drive as well, and I already have a 6spd car

4. How long will the average car go before it starts to fall apart? Depends on how you take care of it..

5. Real life MPG for both engines? I get true 17.7 mph and I beat on my A5. that is showing on the computer and calculating manually. It would easily get 20+ if I stayed out of it.. that would be boring..

6. Do they offer different gearing? Opinions? different gearing if manual (3.92) or auto (3.06)

7.Anything else to know,check or look for before shopping around?? Get what you want.. drive them, don't get in a hurry..


Thanks so much for all the help in advance!:thanks::thanks:

Cant wait to finally own a challenger after years of waiting!!!!:eusa_dance:
See above in red.. let us know when it arrives.. :eusa_dance:
 
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Thanks for the quick response! This is a tricky question but also What simple mods can you do and still be safe driving it hard? exhaust and intake?
 

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Cold Air Intake, Exhaust, Cam, Tune, Throttle Body, small hit of nitrous.. If an auto, a Stall Converter and Sticky tires on a good night will get you in the very high 11's
 
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I am speaking of the 6.4 since this is the 6.4 part of the forums :)

As far as warranty goes... Well if a part you use, causes something to fail, any dealership can deny work. Typically speaking that should never happen from an exhaust system, but things like a "Fender Pull" CAI certainly could cause water ingestion and lock up an engine if you were to do something silly like drive through a foot of water at speed. Nitrous certainly would void the warranty in the engine when parts failed.. Also adding any extra HP that causes driveline parts to fail, if a dealership feels like it, will void the warranty, so does racing... It's a fine line! :)
 

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Thanks again. Is the advantages of a manual just being in control(more fun to drive) and faster if your racing from a roll? being able to downshift?

Thanks
 

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Thanks again. Is the advantages of a manual just being in control(more fun to drive) and faster if your racing from a roll? being able to downshift?

Thanks
Six Speeds do not get the Multi Displacement System (MDS) that's a plus seeing that we think there is an issue related to MDS and timing chain failures that Chrysler will not step up to the plate and address. I run my car in auto-stick mode 100% of the time so my MDS never engages. Stick cars don't get that, and they have another gear so they should be able to get better fuel economy. Rowing gears is a preference thing, I can drive a stick I've had Six Speed Vettes and honestly I love my 5 speed auto... I think the NAG1 (Mercedes) auto transmission is fantastic. You can downshift with the auto, you can manually shift gears, it won't shift till it hits redline if you forget to shift it..
 

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2011 392 SRT, 2010 R/T Classic, 2019 R/T Plus, 2016 SXT Plus
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My comments are from the 6.4 A5 point of view.

I have a diesel and I think its time for something more economical. I have put a lot into my truck aftermarket wise and just want something different. I have a few questions and any help is much appreciated!

1. Can they take a beating? 6.4 vs 6.1 either one of them stronger built?
6.4 Seems strong to me.

2. What are their weaknesses? motor/drivetrain wise and stuff like visibility,traction,comfort etc
Need more sticky tires for 1/4 mile times. I think I can hit high 11's with more traction. Hit 12.69 110mph stock.

3. How are both auto and manual transmissions? All preference or is one better than the other?
A5 is for 1/4 mile and the stick would be for road racing IMO. I have a wife (might have liked a stick), but the auto seems fine. Never tried a stick.

4. How long will the average car go before it starts to fall apart?
Depends on if you drive it into the ground and don't service it I suppose.

5. Real life MPG for both engines?
It is nearly impossible to avoid getting on the GO pedal. So much fun. I'm in the 20's on the highway and less street racing.

6. Do they offer different gearing? Opinions?
Not that I have seen.

7.Anything else to know,check or look for before shopping around??
Get the car you love. I did. My first car was a 1970 Challenger in light burnt orange. I waited until my color came up. The 392 was icing on the cake. Now looking for Plum Crazy Purple like my old Cuda.


Thanks so much for all the help in advance!:thanks::thanks:

Cant wait to finally own a challenger after years of waiting!!!!:eusa_dance:
 

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Cold Air Intake, Exhaust, Cam, Tune, Throttle Body, small hit of nitrous.. If an auto, a Stall Converter and Sticky tires on a good night will get you in the very high 11's
According to my dyno results:
CAI adds about 5 hp
Exhaust 2-3 hp
Cam: DON'T DO THIS...all I hear is trouble with tune and running -and locking out VVT will cost you low/mid power to gain up high...not worth it (this is 6.4L on the 6.1 I would absolutely do a cam)
Tune: about 20hp but MUCH better on the road with less torque management
Tb porting: about 4-5 hp
Head porting and headers: did these same time and gained 20 hp and 30 tq

I expected significantly more (about 50% more) from all these mods to be honest, mainly heads and headers...evidently SRT has this thing pretty well set from factory. If I had to do it all over again...bang for the buck I would do CAI, tb port, exhaust, tune and eventually headers... I would only do heads if I were putting a cam in...which I do plan to do in hopes of getting a bit more out of the above with more airflow. But not until a cam is developed that will tune well and not lock out VVT...if I gain another 40hp I would be thrilled to be honest but I am being told with my heads and big headers I should expect to see about +60hp from properly ground VVT cam.

As far as weaknesses - as everyone stated the clutch and some trans pieces may fail if you exceed 600 hp but that would take significantly more mods than the above...like a supercharger or a LOT of NOS (which I wouldn't do more than about 75 shot personally and this shouldn't break anything).

Fuel mileage...isn't really my concern with this car but I keep an eye on it anyway from time to time...getting about 15/18 maybe 19 highway if I don't play around and just drive about 70. I bought a manual because it's more fun but this also gets me better highway mileage.

Rear visibility is somewhat of an issue...a backup camera would solve the issue pretty well which I have considered but mine is a garage queen and sees car shows and tracks more than around town getting groceries. BUT in saying that...it's comfy enough to drive for hours no problem. Just make sure it's not in sport mode if you get a 2012-13. Mine is lowered an inch with Mopar lowering springs so it's a LITTLE harder than stock but not bad at all.
 

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I've done CAI, Ported TB, and 180 TStat and CMR tune. Putting out 441hp and 446tq. Exhaust is a waste IMO unless you want to change the sound. Next stop would be a super charger. I'll buy some meatier tires for the rear before that.
 

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Cat Back is purely for sound.. If you really want to lower the ET's in an automatic then the first two things should be a Stall Converter and Sticky Tires and maybe the AMG Blue Top Solenoid Kit.
 
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