Dodge Challenger Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Need some help Please.

I have a 2013 Challenger RT Classic, 5.7 litre. 21000 miles. The car is not winter driven and will soon be put away. Got cool today and I turned on the heat today. NO HEAT.
Hoses are hot, rad full, switching the control from floor/dash/windshield/face vent seems to work, I put my hand under drivers side and felt a very hot pipe just above the gas pedal. Just can't get heat. (I believe it worked in the spring & we had heat)
I pulled the #14 fuse in trunk, after I got the alarm quiet, the floor/dash/windshield/face vent switch flased a few times and is now out. Just no heat.

I read stuff: about 3 actuator doors, but it was not clear Where they are, and What each does?
: bad pins in these doors?
: dealer reflash of system?
: Whole dash removal and 1500 $$ which I can not afford YIKES and a rattlely dash?
: also pull fuse #42 ?

Any Suggestions please, I am desperate Thanks ron3033
 

·
Registered
2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
If you tell me you haven't used the heater in a long time I would lean towards something being stuck.

If flow of coolant to the heater core is controlled by a valve -- falling out of favor -- the valve may be stuck closed.

If the heater core receives coolant flow all the -- this is becoming the preferred way -- the door that opens and lets incoming air flow through the heater core may be stuck shut.

If the heater has worked recently then more likely the actuator is not working.

Not sure what's involved in gaining access to the heater core valve or the door that controls air flow through the heater core to try to figure out what's going on.

Assuming the car uses a door to control air flow through the heater core you might be able to observe the actuator and see if it is trying to move the door. If it is the door may be just stuck and with gentleness you can free it. If the actuator doesn't work that could call for a replacement of the actuator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you tell me you haven't used the heater in a long time I would lean towards something being stuck.

If flow of coolant to the heater core is controlled by a valve -- falling out of favor -- the valve may be stuck closed.

If the heater core receives coolant flow all the -- this is becoming the preferred way -- the door that opens and lets incoming air flow through the heater core may be stuck shut.

If the heater has worked recently then more likely the actuator is not working.

Not sure what's involved in gaining access to the heater core valve or the door that controls air flow through the heater core to try to figure out what's going on.

Assuming the car uses a door to control air flow through the heater core you might be able to observe the actuator and see if it is trying to move the door. If it is the door may be just stuck and with gentleness you can free it. If the actuator doesn't work that could call for a replacement of the actuator.
Thank You dealer want 150+ to recalibrate and that is a maybe fix $1500 - 2000 to replace one more if 3 YIKES
 

·
Registered
2015 SRT, 6 Speed, Sublime Green
Joined
·
1,880 Posts
My daughter’s 2013 suffered a similar problem. Look it up on YouTube. It is a known issue. Sorry, I don’t recall the exact fix at the moment but it was a module/relay failure.
 

·
Registered
2018 Hellcat. 2017 Scatpack.
Joined
·
2,313 Posts
check to see if heat is coming out of one side and not the other..or is it totally out on all sides/modes? blend door actuators are a common issue, the part is cheap, but the entire dash has to get cracked into in order to fix however....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
check to see if heat is coming out of one side and not the other..or is it totally out on all sides/modes? blend door actuators are a common issue, the part is cheap, but the entire dash has to get cracked into in order to fix however....
Just no heat, blows cold both sides no matter where temp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My daughter’s 2013 suffered a similar problem. Look it up on YouTube. It is a known issue. Sorry, I don’t recall the exact fix at the moment but it was a module/relay failure.
Thanks for the video. Was that the part they used to fix your daughters car?
 

·
Registered
2015 SRT, 6 Speed, Sublime Green
Joined
·
1,880 Posts
I’m sorry Ron3033.....I don’t really know. We discovered it as we were getting ready to trade it in. She took delivery of a ‘16 Scat Pack the next day. She told me her heater wasn’t working so I started looking for info on it. I do recall talking to a guy in the shop who said it was a common issue on 2013 cars though. Sorry I can’t be more help than that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I’m sorry Ron3033.....I don’t really know. We discovered it as we were getting ready to trade it in. She took delivery of a ‘16 Scat Pack the next day. She told me her heater wasn’t working so I started looking for info on it. I do recall talking to a guy in the shop who said it was a common issue on 2013 cars though. Sorry I can’t be more help than that.
Thank You

I may have noticed a new twist to the plot. When I start the car the floor/vent/windshield light blinks for about a minute and goes out. Then if yo push it for rear defrost it stays lit. When I push the recirculate it light s when I push but does not stay lit....I think it is supposed too?? Now I am thinking the worst??
 

·
Registered
2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Thank You

I may have noticed a new twist to the plot. When I start the car the floor/vent/windshield light blinks for about a minute and goes out. Then if yo push it for rear defrost it stays lit. When I push the recirculate it light s when I push but does not stay lit....I think it is supposed too?? Now I am thinking the worst??
That reads like the system is signaling there is a problem. With my Hellcat and with all my other cars I push the A/C button and the A/C button LED comes on or I push the AUTO climate control button and the AUTO climate control button LED comes on (and sometimes the A/C button LED) or I push the windshield defrost button and LED in the button comes on, but none flash and certainly not for a minute.

Would not surprise me that a tech could query the A/C/heater controller for its status and any codes and from this deduce what is going on.

In fact I am sure this would not be the first time he's seen this behavior and already knows what the problem is, although he might prefer to do a diagnostic just to confirm. If there is a problem and given the cost of some hardware one wants to be sure the right hardware is identified as the source of the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That reads like the system is signaling there is a problem. With my Hellcat and with all my other cars I push the A/C button and the A/C button LED comes on or I push the AUTO climate control button and the AUTO climate control button LED comes on (and sometimes the A/C button LED) or I push the windshield defrost button and LED in the button comes on, but none flash and certainly not for a minute.

Would not surprise me that a tech could query the A/C/heater controller for its status and any codes and from this deduce what is going on.

In fact I am sure this would not be the first time he's seen this behavior and already knows what the problem is, although he might prefer to do a diagnostic just to confirm. If there is a problem and given the cost of some hardware one wants to be sure the right hardware is identified as the source of the problem.
was afraid of that Thanks for the info
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,666 Posts
any flashing lights on the HVAC controls indicates a fault code

your '13 has automatic temperature - odds are the temperature actuator isn't functional or the link arm broke.

There's two actuators one is the blend actuator - moves the door from windshield / vent / floor positions and the other is the temperature actuator.

IIRC, both are on the driver's side of the heater / evaporator core - above the hot coolant pipes you've discovered.

what I've found is you can shine a light up that side and move the controls (try the blend control) so see which one is moving the actuator arm. The other one that isn't moving is probably the temperature actuator - process of elimination.

The actuators can be replaced w/o pulling the dash out, but its tight space to work around in. Often what happens is the link arm (plastic) can break off and then you don't get that function any longer. Or if its binding, the actuator can't move and it displays an error code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
any flashing lights on the HVAC controls indicates a fault code

your '13 has automatic temperature - odds are the temperature actuator isn't functional or the link arm broke.

There's two actuators one is the blend actuator - moves the door from windshield / vent / floor positions and the other is the temperature actuator.

IIRC, both are on the driver's side of the heater / evaporator core - above the hot coolant pipes you've discovered.

what I've found is you can shine a light up that side and move the controls (try the blend control) so see which one is moving the actuator arm. The other one that isn't moving is probably the temperature actuator - process of elimination.

The actuators can be replaced w/o pulling the dash out, but its tight space to work around in. Often what happens is the link arm (plastic) can break off and then you don't get that function any longer. Or if its binding, the actuator can't move and it displays an error code.
Hi Hal Thanks for the reply

Here is where I am at. I pulled fuses 14, 42 & 43 and reseated them(control to fan off and the other two dials set to 12 o'clock). On start I get blinking light on the control for floor/dash/ windshield/rear window still blinking for about 1 minute, It still is changing the location for the air flow when switched. >>> Now I seem to have set off this error by pulling fuses..... If I press recirculate it turns on air condition light even with the setting temp at 30 degrees (full hot), and seems no matter where the control is set, whether to floor, dash or windshield the AC light pops on. The car was in the sun today, but it is fall here and the cab did not seem too warm.
Did I cause more errors??

The actuator for hot and cold is the TOP on the drivers side, I suspect ??

Thanks any Ideas i guess in the spring I should change the top actuator and the go to dealer to recalibrate at $125.00
 

·
Super Moderator
2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
Joined
·
24,053 Posts
I'd pull negative battery cable, set controls as @Nuke suggested, then reconnect battery and se if any change/fix


A Guy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
it came back after a few starts..... though it may be because I turned controls to see if I would now get heat, which I did not. I assume it read the upper driver side door motor did open the heat door & read an error again?? Just thinking?
ron3033
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top