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Discussion Starter #1
What would cause your heater to blow outside temp air in? I changed the tstat to a 180, and got it adjusted with a tune. Car runs just fine. Completely drained system, and burped it. Dealer drained, filled and burped as well.

They swear it has to be the tune. Doesn't make sense to me but I'd thought I'd ask. I'm not 100% confident in their skill set either. Anything else to look out for that may cause it not to work?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Looks like the water pump doesn't get much action here with the procharger. Again, I'm not a mechanic. Just throwing out suggestions.

http://
 

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Do you have an infrared temp gun, they are like 15 bucks at harbor freight, check inlet and outlet temp of heater hoses. They should be close to 180 degrees in your situation fully warmed up. This will tell you right away if you have an air pocket situation. If it's not air, then it's a blend door problem, start looking inside the car.

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Do you have an infrared temp gun, they are like 15 bucks at harbor freight, check inlet and outlet temp of heater hoses. They should be close to 180 degrees in your situation fully warmed up. This will tell you right away if you have an air pocket situation. If it's not air, then it's a blend door problem, start looking inside the car.

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Didn't think of that. Good idea. I'll head out shortly. Gives me a reason for a drive through town.

*sigh*

Even though she's cruel to me, I'm completely smitten with her.
 

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Check at the inlet and outlet of the heater core, both located on the firewall.

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That's sufficient to get you some heat at the ducts, any change at the ducts at all when go full cold to hot?

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Looks like the water pump doesn't get much action here with the procharger. Again, I'm not a mechanic. Just throwing out suggestions.

http://
look at all the action the alternator is getting! Hopefully the battery doesn't overcharge! Haha!

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sorry, i got a good laugh out of that, didn't mean to make anyone feel like i was making fun, but phantomesq all of those accessories will have sufficient belt force, unless you had a belt our tensioner failure, and I'm pretty sure you would here that as a squeal or some kind of belt noise. As long as the water pump is being driven like in the schematic (and the water pump doesn't need as much surface area as the supercharger, alternator, ps, and of course crank) its fine.

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Dodge Challenger RT
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Do you have an infrared temp gun, they are like 15 bucks at harbor freight, check inlet and outlet temp of heater hoses. They should be close to 180 degrees in your situation fully warmed up. This will tell you right away if you have an air pocket situation. If it's not air, then it's a blend door problem, start looking inside the car.

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That blend door actuator was the first thing that came to my mind. When I bought my RT I had researched common problems and bingo, the car I bought had that issue and I made a big deal about how my wife didn't want me to buy a car (it was November in PA) that has no heat. It really helped in the negotiation since my car was used and at a Subaru dealership.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No worries. But yea, there is a definite change from cold air to when I turn the heat on. The heat is just ambient temperature. When it's cool in the morning, it's cool. And it gets warmer through the day. But never hot like it used to. Another thing to note, the switch from feet/mixed/head on the dial seems to take a good bit. Like 20+ seconds. It very well could have always been like that, and now I'm just reaching for straws. Just another thought.
 

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This is set to manual, and not automatic? Some have had issues that were "fixed" but removing the battery negative for 15 seconds or so.

The most common issue is the blend door actuator Pector55 mentioned above. The dealer has to run a recalibration after it is changed, some have had the recalibration by itself correct the problem. A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yea its on manual. I'll unplug battery. If that doesnt work, I'm taking it to another dealer and mentioning blend door issues. I didn't realise it, but after reading around, it seems like it happens quite a bit.
 

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When you start the car look at the rear window defrost button if it blinks upon you starting he car it's a blend door issue. Also they will throw a code that you can read with a scanner the blinking defrost is basically its "check engine light" for something wrong. Even though you have no lights on the dash
 
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