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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I just installed a full system into this challenger, using the stock head unit. The car came with the base unamplified 6 speaker system. I cut the speaker wire outputs behind the head unit and wired them into an AudioControl LC7i. After installing everything, went to turn it on, the lc7i would not pick up the speaker signal to turn on.

Long and short of it all, I isolated the speaker wires from behind the head unit and directly connected a speaker to each of the pairs. No sound. Am I missing something? The speaker outputs are coming out of the head unit and they should provide sound correct? But all four pair are silent now.

Any ideas?
 

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Even though it is not listed as having one have you checked under the dash to make sure that there is no amp of any kind or even just some type of sound processor? Since the radio is just a controller and sends canbus signals out I bet there is still something down there.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Ok, so I just installed a full system into this challenger, using the stock head unit. The car came with the base unamplified 6 speaker system.
What did you add to the car's audio system, a sub(s) and amplifier to push sub(s)?

What about the other speakers, any amplifier for them?


I cut the speaker wire outputs behind the head unit and wired them into an AudioControl LC7i. After installing everything, went to turn it on, the lc7i would not pick up the speaker signal to turn on.
Is the LC7i unit itself getting power when this happens (the no-power-to-speaker-channels problem)?

Can you take the LC7i back out of the picture and hook up the speakers as they were before to verify you get sound to them w/out processor?

Long and short of it all, I isolated the speaker wires from behind the head unit and directly connected a speaker to each of the pairs. No sound. Am I missing something? The speaker outputs are coming out of the head unit and they should provide sound correct? But all four pair are silent now.

Any ideas?
Directly connected to the LC7i or back to the head-unit? If to the LC7i, try it without.

Seems like it would be simple to isolate where the problem is if you can rewire it back to original and verify the sound still works.

Just to confirm, you are installing a multi-channel amp to push the 6 speakers, right? I mean, that would be the only reason to run all 3 channels through the LC7i AFAIK. If you were just adding an amp to push a sub or two, you would only need to run the rear channel through through the processor, not all 3 AFAIK.

I am just making sure you're not trying to do more than necessary hooking the processor up :wink3:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok so I will break down what I did.

Cut the 4 pairs of speaker wire outputs from the head unit and spliced the front and rear channels to speed wire that I ran to the trunk. I replaced the front speakers with Polk Audio separates, with the tweeters taking place of the dash speakers. I replaced the rear speakers with Polk Audio 2 way speakers. I ran new 12 gauge speaker wire from all 6 speakers to the trunk.

I have what Im pretty sure is the signal from the head unit connected to the lc7i A and B channels. I have the A and B channels outputs going to a pioneer 4 channel amp. And the C channel of the lc7i going to a pioneer mono amp for a sub. The front channels of the 4 channel amp are wired into crossovers where the tweeters and door speakers are terminated. The rear channels of the 4 channel amp go straight to the rear speakers.

The original problem was observed when the lc7i would not auto turn on from the head unit signal. Ok its not getting the signal or the lc7i is faulty. So I went back to the head unit and disconnected the speed wire from the head unit outputs. I took a speaker laying around in the garage and wired it directly to the head unit (as I assume the stock speakers were done) and I get nothing. I tried all four pairs coming out of the head unit and nothing....

Thats where I am currently stuck.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Ok so I will break down what I did.

Cut the 4 pairs of speaker wire outputs from the head unit and spliced the front and rear channels to speed wire that I ran to the trunk. I replaced the front speakers with Polk Audio separates, with the tweeters taking place of the dash speakers. I replaced the rear speakers with Polk Audio 2 way speakers. I ran new 12 gauge speaker wire from all 6 speakers to the trunk.

I have what Im pretty sure is the signal from the head unit connected to the lc7i A and B channels. I have the A and B channels outputs going to a pioneer 4 channel amp. And the C channel of the lc7i going to a pioneer mono amp for a sub. The front channels of the 4 channel amp are wired into crossovers where the tweeters and door speakers are terminated. The rear channels of the 4 channel amp go straight to the rear speakers.

The original problem was observed when the lc7i would not auto turn on from the head unit signal. Ok its not getting the signal or the lc7i is faulty. So I went back to the head unit and disconnected the speed wire from the head unit outputs. I took a speaker laying around in the garage and wired it directly to the head unit (as I assume the stock speakers were done) and I get nothing. I tried all four pairs coming out of the head unit and nothing....

Thats where I am currently stuck.
Hmmmm, doesn't sound like anything is out of whack, it is very strange indeed you cannot get any of the channels coming from the head unit to make sound.

Absent anything glaringly obvious being wrong(which there isn't that I can tell), I don't have much in the way of suggestions I'm afraid. Have you already ruled out all the low-hanging fruit? I'm thinking of things like:

- fuses...Are all the relevant fuses in tact, both factory and add-ons?

- current in speaker wires...Have you tried just checking one of the channels with a regular voltmeter to see if there is any current present? I would be surprised if there were anything registering on the display, as it sounds like there is no current whatsoever, but it couldn't hurt to check each channel if you have a voltmeter handy.

- On/Off switch...you have made sure to click the stereo knob once to power up the stereo since you've disconnected the battery last, right? (don't laugh, I once spent 5 hours troubleshooting a computer that I built but wouldn't power up, only to find I had never actually plugged in the A/C power cord into the computer's power supply in the back DOH!!).

Ultimately, if it were me, I would probably rewire everything back to the way it was originally (not relocate or anything, just re-hook up the wires again) and verify the system worked in its original configuration. If so, then I guess just going forward one step at a time would be the best way to figure out where things are keeling over.

I don't know, it's certainly a head-scratcher though! Whenever you do finally figure out what it is, I hope you'll update this thread with the diagnosis and final fix so others might benefit from all this.

Good luck,
Nuke
 

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You said that the LC7 isn't turning on from the signal, have you tried jumping from the 12v constant to the remote terminal to power it on and see if you get anything?
 

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Just spitballing here, there has to be an amplifier, the assumption is it's in the head unit? If so, any speaker out would be amplified. I know this is the base system, and the assumption is there is no separate amp, is this confirmed? if there is no separate amp, the HU has amplification built in, otherwise no audio output at speakers. A Guy
 

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Just spitballing here, there has to be an amplifier, the assumption is it's in the head unit? If so, any speaker out would be amplified. I know this is the base system, and the assumption is there is no separate amp, is this confirmed? if there is no separate amp, the HU has amplification built in, otherwise no audio output at speakers. A Guy
My best guess is that there is still something under the dash on the drivers side just like an amp but maybe not called an amp in the base system.
I believe I stated that in an earlier reply.
In these cars that is the first place I would look when planning this type of install no matter which system it has.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Whether there was an amp or not I dont think would matter because Im cutting the lines right behind the head unit and running the signal to the lc7i.

BUT... I did some more work on it today based on what some of you had said. So I connected a random speaker from the garage straight to the head unit. No sound. I then disconnected the batter, waited 30 seconds and re connected it. Turned on the car completely, and I got sound. Turned the car off, connected the speaker output to the speedwire going into the trunk. Connected my random speaker to the speedwire in the trunk. Turned on the car and got no sound again. Then I disconnected the battery, waited, reconnected and started the car. Then I got sound in the speaker in the trunk. I was able to get the front channels working from the head unit this way each time by first disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Again, when they are connected to the lc7i, it wont auto turn on, no signal...

So this tells me I do get sound out of the head unit once i reset the battery. Im thinking the lc7i is faulty and im going to return it and get a new one. I ran out of sunlight today, but when I get time, I have line out converters im going to connect to the signal from the head unit and plug directly into the amp. If that works, for sure its the lc7i..... I think.... hahah
 

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Hi - I know it’s been about 9 Months since this post was last commented on but I was wondering where you got with this? I seem to be having the same problem with my system now and I am doing the same - adding a 4 channel amp to power the front and rear 6 speakers. I too don’t have a factory amp- there is a space for one but nothing there under the dash. Mine is a 2018 R/T.

Thanks!

Scott
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I have since dealt with this same sort of issue in my Charger. It turns out the car’s amplifying source (whether that is an amp or just the head-unit) checks the resistance of each speaker channel at power up, and if it detects a resistance that is significantly greater than what it expects (4-12 ohm), it will not send any power down that channel. The assumption is that the wires have been compromised somehow and shorted to ground I guess.

Anyway, the way around this, or one of them, is to wire in resistors to each speaker channel that has been rerouted to a LOC or amp. I used some 4 ohm / 25w resistors I found at Frys, but there are others that will work as well.

There is also a PAC device that you can plug into the system to output to a LOC or amp without going the inline resistor route, but they will cost $$ and have to be delivered. So if you need a solution on the cheap and cannot wait for it to arrive in the mail, the inline resistors is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, same as above... sorry it took so long to respond... Yes, I did find out the issue.. according to a local stereo shop the new chrysler product radios are programmed that if they speaker outputs do not see a load when the stereo is turned on, no audio output will come out. I had the stereo shop get it going correctly and they said something about wiring in small ohm resistors to the speaker wire outputs so they will always see a load.
 

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Yes, same as above... sorry it took so long to respond... Yes, I did find out the issue.. according to a local stereo shop the new chrysler product radios are programmed that if they speaker outputs do not see a load when the stereo is turned on, no audio output will come out. I had the stereo shop get it going correctly and they said something about wiring in small ohm resistors to the speaker wire outputs so they will always see a load.
Hey - thanks for getting back to me - you wouldn't happen to know the ohm and wattage rating of those resistors would you? Or would you be able to find out?

Thanks!

Scott
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Hey - thanks for getting back to me - you wouldn't happen to know the ohm and wattage rating of those resistors would you? Or would you be able to find out?

Thanks!

Scott
4 ohm/25 watt resistors worked well for me...I grabbed 4 of these from my local Frys to make my audio upgrades play nice with the stock head-unit.

If I had not found them locally, I would likely ordered 2 packages of these or these off of Amazon to get everything to work.

The ohms can be anything from 2 to 8 I think, but the wattage needs to be close to what will be traveling through it to keep the heat down. In my case, the stock head-unit puts out about 17 watts RMS I believe, so I went with 25 watt resistors.
 

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I have a 2017 Scat Pack and I have the same issue with the DSR1. I have the Audio Control pieces that I will ne putting in to remedy the resistance issue. Does anybody have pics on how they're wired in? Side bar... I removed the styrofoam insert and used it as a template for amp and power distribution boards...
 

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