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Discussion Starter #1
so MMX came out with a NTR NSR camshaft that claims +30 hp to 5.7 engines for $619. Too good to be true or to good to pass up? Thoughts?
 

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hmmmm for all the labor involved in installing a cam in these new engines, might as well go with a good cam and get more than 30 h.p.
But if you don't have to pay for a tune (and unlocked PCM) and pull the heads or sweat trying to change springs while they are in the car, not a bad return. And IIRC, they say a tune will add even more hp.

Really only need to pull the rockers/pushrods, radiator, water pump/timing cover and then slide the old cam out and new one in. Actually easier than an old engine since the lifters don't have to be removed unless you want to, then it is far more work than and old engine.

Is the work that is still required worth it for 30 hp? Don't know. Seems like people go to more work and spend more money for similar increases.

For me, if I was going to do (will probably do) a cam swap, I would rather go the next step and add the springs and tune with a bigger cam. Might even be worth it to me to actually pull the heads and put new lifters in just for the piece of mind.

But I would be lying if I said it wasn't a tempting prospect...
 

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$619 for 30HP would be great bang for your buck. Removing the cam is not bad at all, it's taking heads off to swap lifters/springs that is labor intensive. Would be nice to see a before and after dyno sheet to see where the torque/HP curves fall? Without a tune you are still stuck with a 5700 redline so I wonder where the peak power now falls? Also wonder what the fuel trims look like since added power usually requires more fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think at that point I would like to hear the sound of the cam because if it sounds similar to the 270 cam its game on. I emailed them earlier this morning about it and yet to hear back from them on the difference between their NSR and the NTR cams.....:whistle:
 

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Don't see how that would be possible as the lift on the 270 cam is +0.6 which requires new springs and hence a phase limiter. Plus the 270 operates at higher RPM which would need the redline bumped up to at least 6400rpm.

270 cam specs:
RPM Range: 2100 - 7100
Int. Advertised Duration: 270
Exh. Advertised Duration: 283
Int. Duration @ .050: 222
Exh. Duration @ .050: 230
Int. Lift: .615
Exh. Lift: .609
Lobe Sep. Angle: 115

FYI stock cam specs are here:

Ug...here we go with the ** again.
998765
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I already have a torqstorm installed on my 5.7 and looking for something to help my power curve so I might go with a 6.2 cam install and delete MDS I already have hptuners so I can put the tune in myself.
 

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I run a magnuson and did the 6.2 swap not long ago...definitely a low budget but effective improvement.
 

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But if you don't have to pay for a tune (and unlocked PCM) and pull the heads or sweat trying to change springs while they are in the car, not a bad return. And IIRC, they say a tune will add even more hp.

Really only need to pull the rockers/pushrods, radiator, water pump/timing cover and then slide the old cam out and new one in. Actually easier than an old engine since the lifters don't have to be removed unless you want to, then it is far more work than and old engine.

Is the work that is still required worth it for 30 hp? Don't know. Seems like people go to more work and spend more money for similar increases.

For me, if I was going to do (will probably do) a cam swap, I would rather go the next step and add the springs and tune with a bigger cam. Might even be worth it to me to actually pull the heads and put new lifters in just for the piece of mind.

But I would be lying if I said it wasn't a tempting prospect...
if the owner is paying a shop for the labor - this isn't all the great of a return.

the tuner / unlocked PCM / tuning does add more, but in light of the labor for removing and installing parts - it would be better do step up to a higher output cam.

If someone were to DIY, then its a more budget approach. Not that many folks have the space / time / skills to do this type of work.

The critical part is making sure the cam timing is correct and torquing that cam sprocket bolt own correctly. Either of those steps not done right can be catastrophic damage
 

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The critical part is making sure the cam timing is correct ...
Not going to even share my story of getting the cam timing wrong....been there, don't want to go back.
 

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I understand that they are advertising that it doesn't need a tune...why the hell would you not want one though?

There's also claims all over a few forums with Dyno tests with about 30+ whp gains from a factory 6.4 cam....a $200 cam.

Then we talk about the springs n things

Maybe not 100% necessary but having been mentored by a guy and his old big block 70 Camaro....CHEAP INSURANCE

Imo you are tearing into the motor, get it all done
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's probably a mild cam that sounds like stock just a tad louder and on a good install people would see 60+ at least on stage 1 cams. I'm going to need some more information. But all in all if you have 600 to spend you probably will have 800 in reality to do it right.
 

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Well considering the old scat pack kits were way more expensive, a simple bump stick swap that can give gains without a tune, or swapping spring, or swapping lifters, or swapping torque converter (pretty much a must if you go with a big cam), or adding a phase locker/limiter ain't bad. But it still involves a good bit of labor but nowhere near as much if you had to take off the intake/exhaust manifolds and heads and one still retains MDS.
 

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So I believe this is the mopar performance camshaft specs used in the scat package (requires mopar performance springs). Again, wonder what the MMX cam spec is?
998951


Oh and here is read of the stage 3 tune which if I compare to my stock 2013 JGC 5.7 tune has no changes to PT or WOT VVT tables.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have been studying your threads on the cam swap on a daily basis im learning towards a 6.4 to keep the MDS function but....since having a torqstorm should i just go with the 6.2 and shell out an extra 220 for non-mds lifters and plugs?
 

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The 6.2 is pretty much identical to a 6.4 cam except for a very slight variation in lift and more exhaust duration which helps with FI. If you go with a 6.2 you are going to need to take the heads off which requires new head bolts, gaskets, lifters...ect. If you get a 6.4 MDS cam you would just have to swap out the springs which can be done with the heads on.

If it were me and I had to tear into the engine to essentially down to the short block I would be more than tempted to pull the motor out and either forge it or try and find a 6.2 short block.

If you don't plan to do the work yourself then you really are not going to save money as the labor will easily get upwards of +$1000.
 
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