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Apologies if this has been addressed in a prior thread... I'm seeing similar things, but not quite exactly the same..

I purchased an 08 Srt8 about a year ago with pretty low miles (around 24K), though the brakes were close to needing replaced. About 4 months back, I replaced brakes and rotors (in part because the brakes were low, but I was also getting some squeaking). Since then, the brakes have been creating an extremely loud and obnoxious screeching noise. I'm no stranger to squeaky brakes, but this is out of control. I am seeing people turn around when I come to a stop light—and I really can't blame them. I'd feel the same way—it's really irritating. And it's not just the first few times of hitting the brakes or the first few minutes of driving... It's all of the time (warm weather, cold weather, wet or dry).

I took it back to the dodge dealer that replaced them. One of the service guys sat in the passenger and I took him around to try and recreate the noise. They said it was pretty standard to get some noise because the brakes are large performance brakes and that it'd subside once warmed up.

A few days later, I couldn't take it anymore and took it to a local shop. His feedback was, yeah, they are loud, but everything looks nice and new. He explained that the noise is due to a hard compound brake pad (on top of being large brakes). He said, a cheaper, softer brake pad would be quieter, but I'd be looking at replacing the full rotors & brakes again. So he recommended just dealing with it. He discouraged any of the spray on products just because it could damage the brakes and rotors. At this point, I don't know if I care about damaging the brakes and rotors, especially if I'm looking at replacing them again in the near future.

So I feel stuck, and honestly, hate driving this thing around now. Do I take the hit and get new brakes? And what if I get the same issue with the new brakes? Do I just give up and trade in the car?
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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Hope the inspection was more than just someone counting the number of rotors and coming up with 4.

If the noise is confined to one wheel there is the possibility that a pad is defective -- has some inclusion in it -- which may or may not mark the rotor -- or the pad has a crack or split in it.

The pad material may not be homogeneous. The pad material may have a discontinuity in it.

One possible way to tell if a pad is defective is to suspend it with a wire and tap the backing plate with a brass hammer. What you are looking for is a pad that doesn't sound like all the rest.

If one pad shows more wear or in some way appears different than the others this can be due to a piston that is possibly binding in its bore and the brake pad is constantly dragging against the rotor. This is a more severe case of rubbing or dragging than can occur from just dirty piston dust boots.

Material defects in rotors is more rare. But if the rotors are vented if a wall of one of the cast in vents it cracked this can result in the rotor making noise.

Like the pads a rotor can be suspended by wire -- a heavy enough wire you don't want to risk the wire breaking and the rotor dropping to the garage floor or on your foot -- and tapped in various places around the rotor to see if there is a noticeable change in the tone of the sound the rotor makes.

If you find a pad or rotor that sounds different you might consider replacing it.

In fact if you determine the noise is from just one wheel you could just throw a new set of pads and a new rotor on the wheel. Same pads and same rotor as the other 3 wheels have.

If you find all the brake hardware apparently defect free then you need to try to start again.

One way is to using a suitable coarse file is file some shallow grooves in the pad faces. These grooves should not be in line or at 90 degrees to the direction the rotor travels along the face of the pad. You want to file a diamond pattern of grooves in the face of each pad. Shallow. Just a few thousands of an inch deep is all that is necessary.

The rotors are harder to deal with. In one case I had a good air compressor and a hand die grinder and I got some very coarse abrasive pads and used the die grinder to just scratch the rotor surfaces. One doesn't want to remove any metal just break up/disrupt the glazed metal surface.

With both the pads and rotors, avoid breathing the dust and do not get any in your eyes.

Use mechanics gloves to handle the pads and rotors. You do not want greasy/sweaty finger prints on any of the surfaces. Besides the gloves help keep your hands clean. Brake hardware is very dirty hardware.

Before reinstalling the hardware use brake cleaner to rinse away any brake dust from the caliper and the piston dust boots. I generally budget for one aerosol can of brake cleaner per wheel. I lay several sheets of newspaper under the wheel to catch the brake cleaner and its load of brake dust.

After you have installed the brake hardware I would advise you do a brake hydraulic system flush and bleed. Use the same brake fluid that is in there currently, probably the factory fluid. Follow the proper steps the order in which wheels are done and if the caliper has two bleed nipples whether the inner or outer nipple is bleed first.

It is critical the brake fluid be fresh.

Then take the car out and perform and brake bedding procedure. You do not have to take the car's speed up as much as you might when doing new brakes but you want to use the brakes hard enough to heat things up to ensure all volatile compounds are boiled out of the pad material.

Do not bring the car to a halt when applying the brakes during this process. Before the car's speed slows too much release the brake pedal and promptly accelerate up to some speed and apply the brakes again. With a new car and new brakes or with just new brakes I do this 3 times. By the 3rd time the increase in brake bite compared to the previous 2 times is low and I don't see any real need to do a 4th braking.

With used brakes up to you if you want to stop after 3 times or even 2.

In any case it is very important after you have done the above you drive the car long enough to let the brake hardware cool down. And before they are cooled down avoid bringing the car to a stop .
 

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Without reading the above reply (life is too short) have your brakes been bedded in properly, if not do this first, also lots of us on this forum have had good results using Power Stop pads (Z23 - Z26) for reduced noise and as good as no brake dust, not to mention far less disc wear. These also need to be bedded in properly, the instructions for this are printed on their packaging. If you need break in info just ask.
Do a search on this site for Power Stop brakes for all the info you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you—I appreciate the suggestions, and will definitely start with bedding.. And then will consider the alternative of swapping brakes (I do think it's the front 2) if need be.
 

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As mentioned above the Powerstop pads are an inexpensive option that could help. I have the Z23 pads on my SRT and I have no brake dust and no noise from them.


The Z26 pads are great too.


If you have time to order today we are running a 10% off sale.

- Alexis
 

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For what it is worth I am running the Z23's I have nothing bad to say about them, there is no dust or noise issues at all.
I know they are inferior to Brembo pads in performance but in normal driving the only thing I have noticed is they are more user friendly (don't grab) and there is no longer a dust issue.
 

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I own 2 Challenger SRT8’s, a 2010 and a 2016 Hellcat. They might squeak a bit when they sit and oxidize but they don’t squeal like you’re suggesting OP. Not sure why the guys on your end are saying it’s normal, it isn’t. Count how many you’ve seen at a light squealing like yours, I bet the number is low, if at all..... Good luck!
 
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