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2018 Challenger R/T Scat Pack 6.4 WK
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Discussion Starter #1
To no ones surprise, our Scat Packs have terrible traction when launching from a stop. This is typical of high HP muscle cars but I feel like it's excessive with the SP (the R/T and SRT suffer the same). I want to start a thread on what people have done to alleviate this issue on and off the track. Seeing the 1320 gives me hope that getting decent traction in the SP is possible. I think Dodge set up the Scat Pack to handle well (which they do IMO) and missed the mark with launch traction. The lack of lateral traction is so bad.

I'm interested in what others have done for better traction on the street when launching from a stop but I know some of what is done on the drag strip will transfer to the street. If your sick of your wheels spinning when you don't want them to, feel free to complain her as well.

In many peoples opinion the 245 tire is much to skinny for any muscle car, and I agree 150%. It's a joke that Dodge put these tires on our cars (and even worse that they put skinnier tires on the R/T). I put a set of 275/40R20 Gforce Comp-2s and it helped but I'm still not happy. I have been considering running DRs in the back when the weather is good but don't know if that will help much on the street. I don't think 275 is wide enough for 485hp. The issue is, I like the stock wheels but 275 is the widest you should go on a 9" rim. If I do change wheels I'm thinking about going to an 18" wheel. It will make the ride softer, should make launch traction better, but will decrease cornering stability. I'm not road racing on a track so the latter isn't really an issue.

Questions:
  • Would the difference in traction be worth the cost of all new tires and wheels if going to an 18" rim?
  • Could I go with 305/45x18 (10" or 11" rim) on the back and 245/55x18 in the front? Concerns are an 18" wheel fitting over the front brakes and the rear tire height. I don't know how picky the electronics are with rear tires being off a bit, 0.1" in this case.
  • If I'm putting on new tires and wheels are there other sizes that will improve traction that will fit with less compromise?
  • Go 315 in the back and just have the tire stick out?
  • What sizes have you all used on your Scat Packs (non-wide body) and had success with adding a noticeable amount of traction?
  • Has anyone ever widened the stock rear wheels to fit a wider tire? I would go 315 and not care about the rim sticking out, but I think it wold scrape on the inside without a spacer depending on how the did it. (I have zero knowledge about widening wheels, I read it online so it must be true, lol.)
Upgrading your tires should helps but there has to be more. The Challenger has most of it's weight in the front so weight transfer would help, but how do you do that and make the car drive-able as a DD? Softer springs/struts in the front with a softer sway bar, plus reactive dampers in the rear? The SP suspension is some what stiff so lightening the front shouldn't hurt much on the street.

In terms of launching, other than tires/wheels and suspension, is there something else I'm missing?

I just really want better lateral traction. It's my DD so it's gotta drive good on the road. Not looking for race car handling, just livable on my drive to work. Don't get me wrong, smoking tires easily is fun, but I would prefer more traction. Have a nice day.
 

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A 275 is plenty wide enough. I've run 9 second 1/4 mile times with them. You just have to choose the right compound.
 

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So traction is worse now with cold roads and cold tires. I have 305/35/20 Nitto drag radials on 10.5 inch Cragar rims. I tried all the features on my 1320 to get a good launch. And like others on here my best launch is just with foot braking to 1,500 RPM and rolling on the throttle slowly. The launch control allows a degree of spin and then corrects it. I find that it will upshift to a higher gear to stop spinning. I have yet to figure out which is quicker; letting launch control do it's thing or doing a foot brake launch with feeding in the gas slowly.
 

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2016 Scat Pack
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I hear you loud and clear. I have 275/40 -20 Indy 500s on mine and I can literally smoke them off the rims if I chose to. And keeping this car pointed straight ahead during a high power burnout is definitely a task. It’s just violent and I love it but also scary.

Have you watched RacerX on YouTube? He has done a few very informative videos about tire combos on his Scat Pack and his Charger Hellcat. Seems from his testing that 305s are the best compromise for our SPs. Much better launch traction but don’t know if lateral traction is improved.

Also, you can consider airing down your rear tires to improve traction and soften the ride. Since you went with wider tires, which spreads the vehicle’s weight over a larger contact patch, airing down a few pounds would still support that weight just fine. Long distance driving wouldn’t be a good idea but around town should be okay.
 

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I was running 29 pounds in the back tires. I have now taken off the Cragars & 305s and put the stock 1320 rims & 275/40/20 drag tires back on all 4 corners.

989361
 

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2019 Challenger Scat Pack T/A 392 M6 Go Mango
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My '19 T/A 392 M6 came with the 9.5" rims and the Pirelli 275/40 all season tires. With the Pirellis, if I didn't smoke them or get wheel hop, my best 0-60 was 4.7 with 70 degree temps. I put Indy 500 305/35s running 30psi on the rear based on a recommendation from a friend with an '18 Hellcat. With the Indy 500's, I am already pulling 4.2 second 0-60 times in 45-50 degree weather. I can still smoke them pretty much at will and the wheel hop is almost non-existent so far, but the launches are significantly better now.
 

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2018 Challenger R/T Scat Pack 6.4 WK
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Discussion Starter #7
So it sounds like the 1320 is more impervious to lack of traction than I though (did I say that right?, lol). No magic fix I guess.

I run PSI at 27-29 in the rear on my Gforce Comp-2s. I don't have issue with wheel hop but the car does want to turn when doing a burn out. If I'm doing a standing burnout the car stays planted, it's when I start letting out the brake to make some black lines when it walks to the left, and I agree, it gets scary if I don't let off the gas. I wonder what the ESC I doing when TC is off and I'm doing a burn out. Next time I do a burn out I will turn the ESC off all the way. I'm wondering if some adjustable rear end link could help.

It seems like when comparing similar trims the Mustang's and Camaro's hook better than the Challenger. Anyone know why this is? (Don't tell me it's because the Challenger is heavier because that is not why. A heavier car should grip better.) Do they have better standing weight distribution? Is it the type of rear end?

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So pretend I'm sitting at a red light and find myself in the wrong lane. I need to jump out in front of traffic quickly to make a turn so I don't have to fight with said traffic. It's 70 degrees out and dry. What tire will yield the best traction for getting out in front of traffic and will they make a huge difference compared to the other tires listed? (which tire on the rear will grip better on the street?)

  • 275/40R20 UHP tires
  • 275/40R20 DRs (I have been looking at the Nitto NT05 on stock wheels)
  • 315/35R20 UHP tires (would need new wheels and possibly a spacer and fender flares)
  • 305/45R18 DRs (would need new wheels)
I want to change out my current tire and wheel setup for the summer and am hoping to get some input from people who have run DRs and different size tires/wheel on the street. Is there a significant difference in traction on the street going to a DR and/or going to an 18" wheel? I know it helps on the tack but what about on the street?

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I love my car but the lack of traction from a stop just drives me crazy. If I use the launch control WOT just spins the tires. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I know having 475 ft-lbs of torque is a large part of it but I know there are other cars with high power engines that launch better.

But I will say, for such a large car, the Scat Pack does handle curves very well. Better than most people who haven't driven one will give it credit. It's a fantastic road car and a great DD if you don't care about the gas mileage.
 

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Well, my solution was to order a Durango SRT with the same engine as the Scat Pack but with AWD and 295 tires (stock!) and trade the Scat in on it once it arrives. I love the Challenger but it's an exercise in not pushing the accelerator too much at all times and I'm tired of it. I took it to get the oil changed at 45 degrees and raining and had to eventually put it in ECO mode to stop spinning the back tires on every turn from a stop. I'm over it.

I have a Highlander that I drive in the winter and I hate driving it after driving the Challenger, so I mushed the two together and came up with the Durango SRT. It runs a 13-second quarter mile and tows 8700 pounds (not both at the same time) and has a roomy back seat with captain's chairs. Plus I'm trading in 2 cars and getting back the 3rd bay in my garage to set up my workshop again.

My wife called me practical for making the decision which almost made me change my mind, but I've always said I'm built for comfort and not for speed so I guess this is the best of both in my case.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I already have an AWD SUV that's fast enough. I also like my Challenger too much to trade it. There are other high HP cars that grip better so it has to be possible. Maye I need some fender flares and 345 tires.

My parents have a Citadel and while it only has the 5.7l its a nice ride. Even with the V6 the new Durango's are nice. Not for me though. I've owned large SUVs and found myself not needing the extra space or towing capacity.
 

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My car has the stock 245 Goodyear Super Car tires on stock 9" rims. On the street I have the same traction problems as everyone else. On the drag strip I use MT ET street R 305/45-18 on 10" wheels. On a well prepped track I can go hammer down with little if any spin. Different story when the prep goes away, as well they will spin a lot on the street.

One thing you may want to investigate is rear end camber. Mine had twice as much camber on the right as it did on the left. Left side was within spec, right side was out. In the attached photo you will see heavy wear on the inside of both tires but the heavy wear is much wider on the right. As well left side tire spun on the wheel twice as much as right side tire. I installed Spohn adjustable control arms, had the camber set to zero and toe set to .04 degrees. Also make sure front toe isn't plowing. The car launches harder and straighter with increased MPH in 1/4 mile and the DR's are wearing flat. Rough camber check can be done on a flat concrete floor with a large carpenters square and a scale by setting one side of the square on the floor then measuring from the other side of the square to lowest point of the rim and the highest point of the rim. Best to repeat with the car moved to another place on the floor.

As for weight, every additional pound gives gravity that much more force to keep the car from moving. Challengers being heavy with a front end bias is a lot to overcome.
989412
 

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Good analysis Rob. So you’re saying the rear is best with 0 camber? Sounds logical to place the contact patch as flat as possible. How about front camber, any suggestion?

As an aside this past Friday night I found my local informal car meet at a large parking lot. I opened up my SP drifting it for a couple minutes. So much fun to finally be able to let the tail end loose without fear of going off into a ditch or another car. Also a good opportunity to “feel” how it reacts to inputs. I won’t be doing this often as it’s not an authorized event?
 

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I have a manual trans in my SP and if I floor it in second with the clutch fully engaged I can't get the stock tires to spin at all while on good asphalt... And, yes, tcs is off. From what I am reading here, this is not normal. Do I have a lemon or what?
 

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Good analysis Rob. So you’re saying the rear is best with 0 camber? Sounds logical to place the contact patch as flat as possible. How about front camber, any suggestion?

As an aside this past Friday night I found my local informal car meet at a large parking lot. I opened up my SP drifting it for a couple minutes. So much fun to finally be able to let the tail end loose without fear of going off into a ditch or another car. Also a good opportunity to “feel” how it reacts to inputs. I won’t be doing this often as it’s not an authorized event?
For drag racing zero camber is good. According to my buddy who builds drag race chassis for a living it will also work for normal street driving but not the best for heavy cornering, Not sure what the hot set up is for drifting.
 

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Yeah I don’t normally get into the drifting thing but it is fun. I do notice just sighting down my car from the front that the front wheels have noticeable negative? (tilted in) camber. I wonder if that is factory set or the previous owner.
 

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I cant hook worth a crap either, and I got the 275 pirellis that came with the dynamics package. The only thing I could probably win with mine is a wheel spinning contest, but the tires are worn pretty well. This thursday I'm getting these put on, 275s up front and 315s in the rear. Soon as I get a chance to make a few 0-60 runs I'll let you know how they do on the street.
989491
 

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Wow those are pretty aggressive looking meats! I’m thinking they’ll be a huge improvement especially aired down somewhere below 30psi. I do hope you have at least the 9.5 inch rims?
 

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Wow those are pretty aggressive looking meats! I’m thinking they’ll be a huge improvement especially aired down somewhere below 30psi. I do hope you have at least the 9.5 inch rims?
Stock wheels are 9.5" that came with the dynamics package, but I got two 10.5" replicas for the rear for the 315/35's.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I cant hook worth a crap either, and I got the 275 pirellis that came with the dynamics package. The only thing I could probably win with mine is a wheel spinning contest, but the tires are worn pretty well. This thursday I'm getting these put on, 275s up front and 315s in the rear. Soon as I get a chance to make a few 0-60 runs I'll let you know how they do on the street.
View attachment 989491
I have been considering going to a 315 also with new wheels (I have the WRT wheel). Please do let us know how much of an improvement they are and if they stick out past the fender. Those look like Invo's. I would bet even in the same size they would at least marginally grip better than the Pirellie's. However, I have noticed many performance tire tread patterns seam like even though its the same tire the tread pattern is better with the wider tire (IMO), and 1.5" more width helps too.

My only concern with wider tires is added unsprung weight. Wondering how much that effects 30-100mph. The WTR is a pretty light wheel.
 
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