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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I've recently picked up my 2014 R/T, it has now got a little over 600 miles on it, in the handbook it advises the oil should be changed on 10000 miles or a year. Should I look to change the oil before that? Some people seem to do it pretty soon others don't? Want to do what's best for my engine but don't want to do anything that's not needed before it's needed,

Thanks for any help/advice on this, really don't know what's best here!
:scratchhead:
 

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Basic rule of thumb:

Conventional oil=3k miles or 3 months.
Synthetic oil=5k miles or 6 months.

Use 5w20 ONLY. Anything else WILL damage the engine.

At 600 miles I'd go ahead and change it, get that break in oil out of it. Refill with conventional or synthetic per your preference. Use Mopar filters.

There's my $0.02 anyway.




Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Your car has an oil life algorithym (engine loads, oil temps, run time, short stop/go or highway driving) - the max interval is 10k, but you can see the reminder crop up as early as 3,650 on the '13/'14 models.

If you don't drive much during the year, probably go with the 1x/year change.

The process to re-set the Oil Change reminder is easy...ignition on (engine not running), press accelerator fully to the floor and release 3x within 10 seconds and you've re-set it.
 

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As a result of Chrysler’s agreements with Shell I suspect that the factory fill in new Challengers is Pennzoil 5W20 for the 5.7s and 0W40 for the 6.4s. This is the same oil that you can purchase at auto stores. The only additives that may be in the oil other than what came out of the bottle is whatever assembly lube used while building the engine. Even with all the measures to clean the block, heads, and so on there will be some amount of casting dirt in a new engine. Additionally, new engines shed a lot of metal and that continues for the first few thousand miles. Due to this I feel it is a good practice to drain the factory fill at the 750 to 1000 mile mark. Then I change it again at the 2000 to 2500 mark. At that point I start adhering to an oil change interval for the type of driving I do. Naturally, I change the oil filter at every oil change.
 

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As a result of Chrysler’s agreements with Shell I suspect that the factory fill in new Challengers is Pennzoil 5W20 for the 5.7s and 0W40 for the 6.4s. This is the same oil that you can purchase at auto stores. The only additives that may be in the oil other than what came out of the bottle is whatever assembly lube used while building the engine. Even with all the measures to clean the block, heads, and so on there will be some amount of casting dirt in a new engine. Additionally, new engines shed a lot of metal and that continues for the first few thousand miles. Due to this I feel it is a good practice to drain the factory fill at the 750 to 1000 mile mark. Then I change it again at the 2000 to 2500 mark. At that point I start adhering to an oil change interval for the type of driving I do. Naturally, I change the oil filter at every oil change.
These engines are broken in before they are even put into the vehicle. Hence the reason there is no engine break in period required. The suggested break in, in the owners manual is for the rest of the drive train.

With that said, I still do my first oil change at 1k miles since I like to run Amsoil full synthetic 0w20.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So you run 0w20 fully synthetic, what made you use that over the recommended 5w20? It's very interesting to me as I currently live in England and 5w20 can be quite difficult to get where as 0w20 isn't. Thanks for your advice on this DTru
 

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my sales guy (Bob Frederick) of which a fair amount of people on this forum knows, made
me promise not to change my oil for at least 3000 miles or 1 year because it's supposed to have
additives to aid in proper break in/ring seating etc.. I have no idea, maybe something he put it in
don't know but at 2700 miles and a year old my factory fill looks like it was changed yesterday,
still so clear it's hard to see on the stick.

my local dealer says the factory fill is Pennzoil conventional 5-20W with no additives. I would assume
Bob knows more than this 20 year old service writer but ??

when I do change it I'm going to use a factory Mopar oil filter and 5-20W Mobil 1 full synthetic oil
and change it probably every 3-5K miles or 1 year as the manual recommends. my 5.7L ticks
occasionally and I hear Mobil 1 is as good as any other at keeping that quieter, and maybe better.
 

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So you run 0w20 fully synthetic, what made you use that over the recommended 5w20? It's very interesting to me as I currently live in England and 5w20 can be quite difficult to get where as 0w20 isn't. Thanks for your advice on this DTru
This is a quote from an SRT engineer:

Q - "What are the disadvantages, if any, of using 5W-40? (vs 0W-40) Is the MDS system affected?"

A - There are some disadvantages to 5W-40 usage for the cam phasing system (rather than the MDS system). The fast acting cam phaser system was designed to utilize synthetic 0W-40 vis oils. The oils we recommend are 0W-40 Pennzoil Ultra (with 250 ppm moly added which gives additional cam phasing benefit - very positive on this oil) and our old SRT oil, Mobil 1, (with 110-160 ppm moly).

I know that they are speaking about the SRT but the RT's also use cam phasing. The 0w or 5w is an indicator of its cold start protection. You will have no issues using 0w20.



my sales guy (Bob Frederick) of which a fair amount of people on this forum knows, made
me promise not to change my oil for at least 3000 miles or 1 year because it's supposed to have
additives to aid in proper break in/ring seating etc.. I have no idea, maybe something he put it in
don't know but at 2700 miles and a year old my factory fill looks like it was changed yesterday,
still so clear it's hard to see on the stick.

my local dealer says the factory fill is Pennzoil conventional 5-20W with no additives. I would assume
Bob knows more than this 20 year old service writer but ??

when I do change it I'm going to use a factory Mopar oil filter and 5-20W Mobil 1 full synthetic oil
and change it probably every 3-5K miles or 1 year as the manual recommends. my 5.7L ticks
occasionally and I hear Mobil 1 is as good as any other at keeping that quieter, and maybe better.
There is such a thing as break in oil, but these engines are broken in before they go into the vehicle. Whether the oil in it at purchase is break in oil or not I do not know but if its already broken in, there should be no issue.

You can change it whenever you want to. Some people like to change it at 500 miles, some wait till the recommended. Either way its not going to hurt the engine.

Some do say that Mobil 1 helps with the "Hemi tick" but from my experience the tick is from the injectors which has nothing to do with your oil. Mobile 1 was the SRT recommended oil for a while, they recently converted to Penzoil.

Just some interesting info:

Motor Oil Wear Test Results and Ranking

*** The higher the psi result, the higher the “Load carrying capacity/Film strength”, and the better the oil is at preventing wear.

*** All oils were tested at 230* F (representative of actual running temperature).

*** Multiple tests were performed on each oil, and those results were averaged to arrive at each oil’s final value shown below.

*** All oil bottles were thoroughly shaken before the samples were taken. This ensured that all the additive package components were distributed uniformly throughout all the oil in the bottle, and not settled to the bottom.

*** All oils are full synthetic unless otherwise specified.

*** All oils are suitable for street use unless otherwise specified.


Oil categories:

*** Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING protection

*** 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD protection

*** 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST protection

*** Below 60,000 psi = UNACCEPTABLE protection



********** OUTSTANDING PROTECTION ************


1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 115,612 psi
I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification. The bottle says, “No leading synthetic oil provides better wear protection”. For once, a product’s hype turns out to be true.
zinc = 806 ppm
phos = 812 ppm
moly = 66 ppm

2. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only = 106,505 psi
zinc = 2642 ppm
phos = 3489 ppm
moly = 1764 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

3. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi
zinc = 801 ppm
phos = 842 ppm
moly = 112 ppm

4. 0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN = 105,008 psi
zinc = 824 ppm
phos = 960 ppm
moly = 161 ppm


******* 10% below number 1 = 104,051 psi ********


5. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
zinc = 1669 ppm
phos = 1518 ppm
moly = 784 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

6. 5W50 Motorcraft, API SN = 103,517 psi
zinc = 606 ppm
phos = 742 ppm
moly = 28 ppm

7. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

8. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
moly = 162 ppm

9. 5W30 Chevron Supreme conventional, API SN = 100,011 psi
This one only costs $4.29 per quart.
zinc = 1018 ppm
phos = 728 ppm
moly = 160 ppm

10. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 99,983 psi
zinc = 1042 ppm
phos = 857 ppm
moly = 100 ppm
titanium = 49 ppm

11. 20W50 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 96,514 psi
zinc = 610 ppm
phos = 754 ppm
moly = 94 ppm

12. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil = 96,470 psi
zinc = 2207 ppm
phos = 2052 ppm
moly = 1235 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

13. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN = 96,364 psi
zinc = 742 ppm
phos = 667 ppm
moly = 81 ppm

14. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN = 95,920 psi
zinc = 877 ppm
phos = 921 ppm
moly = 72 ppm

15. 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 95,717 psi
zinc = 818 ppm
phos = 883 ppm
moly = 90 ppm
titanium = 44 ppm

16. 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 Racing Oil = 95,543 psi
zinc = 743 ppm
phos = 802 ppm
moly = 1125 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

17. 5W20 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,543 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
NOTE: Oil numbers 16 and 17 were tested weeks apart, but due to the similarities in their wear scar sizes, their averages ended up the same.

18. 5W30 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,392 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

19. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil = 95,360 psi
zinc = 1431 ppm
phos = 1441 ppm
moly = 52 ppm

20. 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,942 psi
zinc = 969 ppm
phos = 761 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

21. 5W30 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 94,744 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

22. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN = 94,663 psi
zinc = 764 ppm
phos = 698 ppm
moly = 76 ppm

23. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,460 psi
zinc = 1045 ppm
phos = 742 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

******** 20% below number 1 = 92,490 psi ********

24. 5W30 Lucas conventional, API SN = 92,073 psi
zinc = 992 ppm
phos = 760 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

25. 5W30 O'Reilly (house brand) conventional, API SN = 91,433 psi
This one only costs $3.99 per quart.
zinc = 863 ppm
phos = 816 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

26. 5W30 Red Line, API SN = 91,028 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

27. 5W20 Royal Purple API SN = 90,434 psi
zinc = 964 ppm
phos = 892 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

28. 5W20 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 90,144 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD


************ GOOD PROTECTION **********


29. 30 wt Castrol Heavy Duty conventional, API SM = 88,089
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

30. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil = 86,270 psi
zinc = 1247 ppm
phos = 1137 ppm
moly = 24 ppm

31. 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 86,034 psi
I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

32. 5W30 Royal Purple API SN = 84,009 psi
zinc = 942 ppm
phos = 817 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

33. 20W50 Royal Purple API SN = 83,487 psi
zinc = 588 ppm
phos = 697 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

34. 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile, API SN = 83,263 psi
zinc = 890 ppm
phos = 819 ppm
moly = 104 ppm

35. 0W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 82,867 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

******** 30% below number 1 = 80,928 psi ********


**************** MODEST PROTECTION ************

36. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi
zinc = 1421 ppm
phos = 1338 ppm
moly = 204 ppm
NOTE: This particular bottle of oil was just opened, but was out of a 3 ½ year old case.

37. Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 Nitro 70 Racing Oil (semi-synthetic) = 72,003 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

38. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi
zinc = 1621 ppm
phos = 1437 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

39. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi
zinc = 1557 ppm
phos = 1651 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

40. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi
zinc = 1,133 ppm
phos = 1,168 ppm
moly = 83 ppm

******** 40% below number 1 = 69,367 psi ********

41. 5W30 Motorcraft, API SN = 68,782 psi
zinc = 796 ppm
phos = 830 ppm
moly = 75 ppm

42. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi
zinc = 1774 ppm
phos = 1347 ppm
moly = 189 ppm

43. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi
zinc = 1154 ppm
phos = 1075 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

44. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

******** 50% below number 1 = 57,806 psi ********


Summary:

*** Simply having high levels of zinc/phos was absolutely NOT a guarantee of high “load carrying capacity/film strength”. Some high zinc/phos oils had excellent test results, while other high zinc/phos oils had only fair test results.

*** This testing has clearly shown that a particular oil’s “load carrying capacity/film strength”, is NOT determined just by its zinc/phos levels, but rather, it is determined by the oil and its additive package “as a whole”. So, if people choose an oil strictly based on its zinc/phos levels, they could easily end up having a “LOT LESS” protection than they think they have.

*** People need to understand that you no longer HAVE to have high levels of zinc/phos for engine protection. Alternate motor oil chemistry now in use, is as good as or better than high levels of zinc/phos. It’s fine if you do want to use high levels of zinc/phos, but it is NOT mandatory.

*** This testing has clearly shown that an oil’s viscosity is also absolutely NOT an indicator of its “load carrying capacity/film strength”. Among the 44 oils tested here, 50 wt type oils ranked from 6th to 40th, 30 wt type oils ranked from 1st to 44th, and 20 wt type oils ranked from 10th to 35st. So again, an oil’s “load carrying capacity/film strength” is determined by the oil and its additive package “as a whole”, nothing else.

*** This testing has clearly shown that you simply CANNOT PREDICT an oil’s “load carrying capacity/film strength” by looking at its specs or its viscosity. You can only determine that capability by performing some type of actual wear testing.

*** The latest “LOW” zinc/phos API certified oils, both synthetic and conventional, are very good oils. In fact, they are so good that their capability has surpassed most of the traditional high zinc/phos High Performance and Racing oils. There are other motor oil additive components that provide extreme pressure protection besides zinc and phos. And some of those other components are used in modern oil so that the catalytic converters are not fouled.

*** There is not much real difference between synthetic and conventional oils in terms of “load carrying capacity/film strength” or wear protection. The biggest difference is that synthetic oils can tolerate temps up to around 325*F before thermal break down can start to be a concern. But conventional oils can only tolerate temps up to around 275*F before thermal break down can start to be a concern.

*** “Low cost” conventional API certified oils have extremely good capability. If an oil has the API SN certification, it will be quite good.

*** There were no BAD oils in this test. Some are simply better than others in terms of “load carrying capacity/film strength”. Those that have a higher capacity, offer a higher margin of safety than those with a lower capacity, that’s all.
 

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that's pretty interesting.. looks like 5-20W Mobil 1 has second or third best film strength numbers on the list
behind Castrol Edge and conventional Castrol GTX... nice to see them compared like that.

my "tic" is for sure a lifter bleed down. 1 in maybe 10-15 starts it sounds like a 65 Chevy 283 with a bad
lifter and it quietens down after 15-20 seconds maybe. I was just thinking the other day it had not done
that for a while then it did it the night before last. either way... at the best of times it's a noisy engine to
say the least.
 

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Thats some good info there. As for engines having break-in oil from the factory I have proven that to not be true by sending a sample of my original oil to Blackstone asking if there were any special additives in the oil and they said no. Nothing different then what u can buy.
 
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Thats some good info there. As for engines having break-in oil from the factory I have proven that to not be true by sending a sample of my original oil to Blackstone asking if there were any special additives in the oil and they said no. Nothing different then what u can buy.

Of course there's no difference. What you're missing is all the additional metal particles and other microscopic debris a new engine will produce. That's why the first oil change should be performed around 600 mi, not because there's "special oil" to get out.

Unless of course you WANT to media blast your engine internals.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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This is a quote from an SRT engineer:

Q - "What are the disadvantages, if any, of using 5W-40? (vs 0W-40) Is the MDS system affected?"

A - There are some disadvantages to 5W-40 usage for the cam phasing system (rather than the MDS system). The fast acting cam phaser system was designed to utilize synthetic 0W-40 vis oils. The oils we recommend are 0W-40 Pennzoil Ultra (with 250 ppm moly added which gives additional cam phasing benefit - very positive on this oil) and our old SRT oil, Mobil 1, (with 110-160 ppm moly).

I know that they are speaking about the SRT but the RT's also use cam phasing. The 0w or 5w is an indicator of its cold start protection. You will have no issues using 0w20.





There is such a thing as break in oil, but these engines are broken in before they go into the vehicle. Whether the oil in it at purchase is break in oil or not I do not know but if its already broken in, there should be no issue.

You can change it whenever you want to. Some people like to change it at 500 miles, some wait till the recommended. Either way its not going to hurt the engine.

Some do say that Mobil 1 helps with the "Hemi tick" but from my experience the tick is from the injectors which has nothing to do with your oil. Mobile 1 was the SRT recommended oil for a while, they recently converted to Penzoil.

Just some interesting info:

Motor Oil Wear Test Results and Ranking

*** The higher the psi result, the higher the “Load carrying capacity/Film strength”, and the better the oil is at preventing wear.

*** All oils were tested at 230* F (representative of actual running temperature).

*** Multiple tests were performed on each oil, and those results were averaged to arrive at each oil’s final value shown below.

*** All oil bottles were thoroughly shaken before the samples were taken. This ensured that all the additive package components were distributed uniformly throughout all the oil in the bottle, and not settled to the bottom.

*** All oils are full synthetic unless otherwise specified.

*** All oils are suitable for street use unless otherwise specified.


Oil categories:

*** Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING protection

*** 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD protection

*** 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST protection

*** Below 60,000 psi = UNACCEPTABLE protection



********** OUTSTANDING PROTECTION ************


1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 115,612 psi
I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification. The bottle says, “No leading synthetic oil provides better wear protection”. For once, a product’s hype turns out to be true.
zinc = 806 ppm
phos = 812 ppm
moly = 66 ppm

2. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only = 106,505 psi
zinc = 2642 ppm
phos = 3489 ppm
moly = 1764 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

3. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi
zinc = 801 ppm
phos = 842 ppm
moly = 112 ppm

4. 0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN = 105,008 psi
zinc = 824 ppm
phos = 960 ppm
moly = 161 ppm


******* 10% below number 1 = 104,051 psi ********


5. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
zinc = 1669 ppm
phos = 1518 ppm
moly = 784 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

6. 5W50 Motorcraft, API SN = 103,517 psi
zinc = 606 ppm
phos = 742 ppm
moly = 28 ppm

7. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

8. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
moly = 162 ppm

9. 5W30 Chevron Supreme conventional, API SN = 100,011 psi
This one only costs $4.29 per quart.
zinc = 1018 ppm
phos = 728 ppm
moly = 160 ppm

10. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 99,983 psi
zinc = 1042 ppm
phos = 857 ppm
moly = 100 ppm
titanium = 49 ppm

11. 20W50 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 96,514 psi
zinc = 610 ppm
phos = 754 ppm
moly = 94 ppm

12. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil = 96,470 psi
zinc = 2207 ppm
phos = 2052 ppm
moly = 1235 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

13. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN = 96,364 psi
zinc = 742 ppm
phos = 667 ppm
moly = 81 ppm

14. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN = 95,920 psi
zinc = 877 ppm
phos = 921 ppm
moly = 72 ppm

15. 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 95,717 psi
zinc = 818 ppm
phos = 883 ppm
moly = 90 ppm
titanium = 44 ppm

16. 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 Racing Oil = 95,543 psi
zinc = 743 ppm
phos = 802 ppm
moly = 1125 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

17. 5W20 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,543 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
NOTE: Oil numbers 16 and 17 were tested weeks apart, but due to the similarities in their wear scar sizes, their averages ended up the same.

18. 5W30 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,392 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

19. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil = 95,360 psi
zinc = 1431 ppm
phos = 1441 ppm
moly = 52 ppm

20. 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,942 psi
zinc = 969 ppm
phos = 761 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

21. 5W30 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 94,744 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

22. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN = 94,663 psi
zinc = 764 ppm
phos = 698 ppm
moly = 76 ppm

23. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,460 psi
zinc = 1045 ppm
phos = 742 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

******** 20% below number 1 = 92,490 psi ********

24. 5W30 Lucas conventional, API SN = 92,073 psi
zinc = 992 ppm
phos = 760 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

25. 5W30 O'Reilly (house brand) conventional, API SN = 91,433 psi
This one only costs $3.99 per quart.
zinc = 863 ppm
phos = 816 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

26. 5W30 Red Line, API SN = 91,028 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

27. 5W20 Royal Purple API SN = 90,434 psi
zinc = 964 ppm
phos = 892 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

28. 5W20 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 90,144 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD


************ GOOD PROTECTION **********


29. 30 wt Castrol Heavy Duty conventional, API SM = 88,089
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

30. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil = 86,270 psi
zinc = 1247 ppm
phos = 1137 ppm
moly = 24 ppm

31. 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 86,034 psi
I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

32. 5W30 Royal Purple API SN = 84,009 psi
zinc = 942 ppm
phos = 817 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

33. 20W50 Royal Purple API SN = 83,487 psi
zinc = 588 ppm
phos = 697 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

34. 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile, API SN = 83,263 psi
zinc = 890 ppm
phos = 819 ppm
moly = 104 ppm

35. 0W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 82,867 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

******** 30% below number 1 = 80,928 psi ********


**************** MODEST PROTECTION ************

36. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi
zinc = 1421 ppm
phos = 1338 ppm
moly = 204 ppm
NOTE: This particular bottle of oil was just opened, but was out of a 3 ½ year old case.

37. Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 Nitro 70 Racing Oil (semi-synthetic) = 72,003 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

38. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi
zinc = 1621 ppm
phos = 1437 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

39. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi
zinc = 1557 ppm
phos = 1651 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

40. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi
zinc = 1,133 ppm
phos = 1,168 ppm
moly = 83 ppm

******** 40% below number 1 = 69,367 psi ********

41. 5W30 Motorcraft, API SN = 68,782 psi
zinc = 796 ppm
phos = 830 ppm
moly = 75 ppm

42. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi
zinc = 1774 ppm
phos = 1347 ppm
moly = 189 ppm

43. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi
zinc = 1154 ppm
phos = 1075 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

44. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

******** 50% below number 1 = 57,806 psi ********


Summary:

*** Simply having high levels of zinc/phos was absolutely NOT a guarantee of high “load carrying capacity/film strength”. Some high zinc/phos oils had excellent test results, while other high zinc/phos oils had only fair test results.

*** This testing has clearly shown that a particular oil’s “load carrying capacity/film strength”, is NOT determined just by its zinc/phos levels, but rather, it is determined by the oil and its additive package “as a whole”. So, if people choose an oil strictly based on its zinc/phos levels, they could easily end up having a “LOT LESS” protection than they think they have.

*** People need to understand that you no longer HAVE to have high levels of zinc/phos for engine protection. Alternate motor oil chemistry now in use, is as good as or better than high levels of zinc/phos. It’s fine if you do want to use high levels of zinc/phos, but it is NOT mandatory.

*** This testing has clearly shown that an oil’s viscosity is also absolutely NOT an indicator of its “load carrying capacity/film strength”. Among the 44 oils tested here, 50 wt type oils ranked from 6th to 40th, 30 wt type oils ranked from 1st to 44th, and 20 wt type oils ranked from 10th to 35st. So again, an oil’s “load carrying capacity/film strength” is determined by the oil and its additive package “as a whole”, nothing else.

*** This testing has clearly shown that you simply CANNOT PREDICT an oil’s “load carrying capacity/film strength” by looking at its specs or its viscosity. You can only determine that capability by performing some type of actual wear testing.

*** The latest “LOW” zinc/phos API certified oils, both synthetic and conventional, are very good oils. In fact, they are so good that their capability has surpassed most of the traditional high zinc/phos High Performance and Racing oils. There are other motor oil additive components that provide extreme pressure protection besides zinc and phos. And some of those other components are used in modern oil so that the catalytic converters are not fouled.

*** There is not much real difference between synthetic and conventional oils in terms of “load carrying capacity/film strength” or wear protection. The biggest difference is that synthetic oils can tolerate temps up to around 325*F before thermal break down can start to be a concern. But conventional oils can only tolerate temps up to around 275*F before thermal break down can start to be a concern.

*** “Low cost” conventional API certified oils have extremely good capability. If an oil has the API SN certification, it will be quite good.

*** There were no BAD oils in this test. Some are simply better than others in terms of “load carrying capacity/film strength”. Those that have a higher capacity, offer a higher margin of safety than those with a lower capacity, that’s all.


>>> I only have one problem with this info, needs a link!
 

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I found it in another forum and this forum is a little iffy about linking.
 

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Some of those grades of RP - not so great for protection level. Sheesh
 

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Royal Purple is funny like that, even though they are a true synthetic, unlike Mobil 1, they come out flat in a lot of these comparisons. The gear oil test I saw was the same way.

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I found it in another forum and this forum is a little iffy about linking.


>>> How old do you think this info is? I have info from Mobile1 10/17/11 it is just off a bit..
 

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Of course there's no difference. What you're missing is all the additional metal particles and other microscopic debris a new engine will produce. That's why the first oil change should be performed around 600 mi, not because there's "special oil" to get out.

Unless of course you WANT to media blast your engine internals.

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No I completely agree. That just seems to be a common misconception with people and dealerships. When I bought my car I asked to have the oil changed and got fed that line. Now I have the hard facts to back it up. Hard to argue something when u don't have the facts.
 
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