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Discussion Starter #1
2017 R/T and I'm coming up on 5000 miles so need to think about an oil change. I looked in the manual and was surprised to find no interval recommended except not to go beyond 10000 miles. Instead, it seems to indicate that you should use the oil change warning system to alert you when it's time. My indicator still shows 53% left! It looks like it's heading me to the 10000 mile limit.



So just wondering, you 5.7 guys, how do you approach your oil change? Do you just go by miles or do you use the alert system?


Thx!
 

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Every 5000 miles. I only have 6300 on my 15 RT+, but I already have the oil and filter for the next 3 oil changes. Got the oil while it was on sale. Will change it twice a year if I don't hit the mileage numbers.
 

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Remember ...... The manual has a time interval to go along with the not-more-than 10,000 mileage requirement for oil change frequency. Pay attention to both to insure there are no warranty technicalities should you have an issue. I'd go ahead and do the oil change and reset the monitor.

Your 5.7 (345) HEMI shipped from the factory with conventional engine oil. (Though one tech told me that he "thought" they shipped with a synthetic blend). If the 345's shipped with Full Synthetic like the 392's, then I would feel better about going to the full mileage.

In my wife's '17 Durango R/T (345), I did the initial oil change at about 1200 miles and switched to Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic. I have relied upon the onboard system from that time on and it has called for a change at 8,000 to 9,000 miles each time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think that's what I'm going to do, change oil now then go by the indicator. Something inside me wants to rely on the factory engineered system. It's a neat piece of work.


I missed the time interval in the manual. I'll go back and take a closer look. Thx!
 

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If you’re using full synthetic oil, you can go up to 10k miles but you’ll have to use a filter that’s designed to go that long. Also, I wouldn’t let it go more than a year regardless of oil blend and/or filter type.
I personally would disregard the oil interval indicator.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep, there it is! I saw the 10000 miles and my mind must have blanked out on the time, lol.
 

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I think that's what I'm going to do, change oil now then go by the indicator. Something inside me wants to rely on the factory engineered system. It's a neat piece of work.


I missed the time interval in the manual. I'll go back and take a closer look. Thx!
I think that's a good plan. And, a good opportunity to treat your engine to the "good stuff."

You can usually find a deal at either AutoZone, Advanced Auto, O'Reilly's, or Pep Boys for Pennzoil Full Synthetic and a filter for around $35 for 5qts. Just pick up two additional quarts and make sure you get a quality oil filter.

And you can nearly always find a good price on engine oil at Walmart.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Been thinking that with the heat around here full synthetic is the way to go. Hey, I even saw Mopar oil filters at Walmart! Lol
 

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Buying oil at Walmart or any place really. A couple of years ago I bought a 5 quart container of Mobil 1 oil at Walmart. Drained the oil out of the car... 2013 Ford Edge SUV. Removed the oil filter, cleaned the area and was going to lube the o-ring and install. Opened the cap on the container which was on very tight so I didn't notice if caps "plastic teeth" seal was broken or not. Got to the foil seal and noticed that part of the seal was loose and not welded to the lip as the rest of the seal was. Figured a crappy seal and pulled the seal off. Stuck my finger in the oil to lube the oil filter o-ring and while the oil was new & clear didn't feel like Mobil 1. Thinking about the foil seal I came to the conclusion that I got ripped off. Some lowlife, who is probably fairly smart, bought cheap new "no brand oil" and refilled the container with it after he used the Mobil 1 and returned it back to Walmart. I gave the oil to a friend of my son who had a near end of life beater. I bought another 5 qts Mobil 1 being a little bit wiser and now always check the cap/teeth on expensive synthetic oil that I buy. A warning to most and a trick for some.
 

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I used Castrol Syntec and the SRT filter on my '10 R/TC. Had to change at 5k back then, per factory recommendations.


If I had a present 5.7 Challenger, I would use the SRT filter with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. It would be good for the extended service change that is allowed now.


Best of luck choosing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If I had a present 5.7 Challenger, I would use the SRT filter with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. It would be good for the extended service change that is allowed now.

I believe that's the plan I'm going with. Any advantage to the SRT filter over the bigger Mopar filter? I can get the Mopar one locally but no biggie if I have to order the SRT. I've read the SRT offers a little more oil pressure. Any other advantages?
 

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I believe that's the plan I'm going with. Any advantage to the SRT filter over the bigger Mopar filter? I can get the Mopar one locally but no biggie if I have to order the SRT. I've read the SRT offers a little more oil pressure. Any other advantages?

The SRT filter has synthetic filter media, which will filter smaller dirt/junk particles, and it has a larger capacity for holding this stuff. Good for extended oil changes.


It also has a higher "bypass" rating, so more oil is filtered while the "stock" filter would be in bypass mode. My experience with this filter on the 5.7 was about a 2 psi higher reading at highway speeds.


My dealer stocks these, and I buy them for about $13.50 each.
 

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Mobil one oil "totally synthetic"only regardless what mopar says.. ! yes the SRT oil filter pn# MO-04, 1 been using this filter for the past 10 years now better pressure relief valve.
 

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Since I don't drive long distances all that often, I go by the "Severe Duty" service intervals. My old car's engine was "super clean" when it had to have the intake manifold removed to replace a sensor when it was about 6 years old. It works out to a Spring/fall oil change. With the roads being so bad, I had front end damage EVERY year and if it was even remotely close, I would have them do the oil change. So most of the time, it was done too early, but it's not that expensive if you stay away from the dealer. I would buy the oil and filter and the guy I used to do the front end work would do the change and check things out while he was under there. I fully expect my new car to break sway bar links this upcoming winter, as my '10 did a half dozen times in the 8 winters it went through.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You gotta drive forever on the freeway to go anywhere here so that's probably why my indicator is going down slow. Three-quarters of my driving is cruising at 80 mph to get somewhere. BTW, it cruises really nice at 80 :lol:


Good info on the SRT filter. I'm sold!
 

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*Question, is 10,000 miles also go for the 392? I have a 2015 Scat Pack and have been changing the oil at the dealer every 6000 miles with synthetic of course, I now have 33K. I also have the Mopar Lifetime Warranty and the dealer told me I would have to have the oil changed every 6 months or 5000-6000 miles; are they bull $hitting me?
 

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*Question, is 10,000 miles also go for the 392? I have a 2015 Scat Pack and have been changing the oil at the dealer every 6000 miles with synthetic of course, I now have 33K. I also have the Mopar Lifetime Warranty and the dealer told me I would have to have the oil changed every 6 months or 5000-6000 miles; are they bull $hitting me?

6 months or 6k miles for the 392 cars.
 
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