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well i got just over 1000 miles on my new baby what miliage do you guys think the first oil change should be?
 

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well i got just over 1000 miles on my new baby what miliage do you guys think the first oil change should be?
did my first at 500, second at 4500, and now on every 5K schedule
 

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Furious Fuchsia 2010 Challenger R/T Classic A5
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I'm doing mine every 500mi until 2500mi, when I'll switch to a class IV/V synthetic oil, then at 5000 and every 5000 after that.

That's based upon my searches here and the recommendations/methods of the those in the know. The main thing is that there are more metal particle contaminates during the engine's initial breaking-in period. So to prevent premature wear, do more, frequent oil changes during the first couple thousand miles on your new engine.
 

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There are pros and cons to an early oil change to get the factory oil out.

Cons:
Factory oil has additives to help with break-in of the engine that you don't want to remove too early.

Pros:
*Factories are much much better about keeping debris out of engines today then they were in the past. However, it can happen and it is nice to get that out.

*Break in wear will have cause some debris.
 

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For my piece of mind, I changed the Mobil 1 synthetic oil on my SRT after 1,500 miles to remove any minute particles of metal (caused by engine break-in) that by-passed the filter.

Now, I change it every 6,000 miles.

To learn everything about oil, see:

Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible


By the way, there are no special "break-in" additives that are in the oil from the factory.
 

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I'm doing mine every 500mi until 2500mi, when I'll switch to a class IV/V synthetic oil, then at 5000 and every 5000 after that.

That's based upon my searches here and the recommendations/methods of the those in the know. The main thing is that there are more metal particle contaminates during the engine's initial breaking-in period. So to prevent premature wear, do more, frequent oil changes during the first couple thousand miles on your new engine.
Interesting about "those in the know" theory. It changes over the years.

Even the new motors are a "sloppy tolerance" in their own way. They are built to consistanty tigher specs than in the past, but the filtering takes out harmfull particals.

The biggest "wear factor" in motors is the "dry start up" after an oil change. More wear is generated in that cycle than thousands of miles use. Filling up the new filter helps, but that just doesn't happen to most peoples cars.

If you get a chunck of something big during a filter bypass mode, you've got bigger problems to deal with. Changing the oil won't help you now.

Allways an interesting topic.

FWIW, I usually make the first change on a fresh motor/car at 1000-1500 miles, than 5k with standard oil, 10k with Mobil1...........or follow the mfg's chart to keep warranty intact.

When my warranty is over, I'll go with the 10k change. Never "popped" a motor yet doing that, and got 200k + on every motor that I've owned, including Chrysler's early 90's 2.2 16valve, intercooled turbo beasts.

Honest to God, that little motor, at 10k on Mobile 1 would be down about 1/2 quart. I ran the heck out it too.

Go figure:fight:
 

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Allways an interesting topic.

FWIW, I usually make the first change on a fresh motor/car at 1000-1500 miles, than 5k with standard oil, 10k with Mobil1...........or follow the mfg's chart to keep warranty intact.

When my warranty is over, I'll go with the 10k change. Never "popped" a motor yet doing that, and got 200k + on every motor that I've owned, including Chrysler's early 90's 2.2 16valve, intercooled turbo beasts.

Honest to God, that little motor, at 10k on Mobile 1 would be down about 1/2 quart. I ran the heck out it too.

Go figure:fight:
It is hard to say what a standard oil drain inverval is. Driving habits can change a standard interval +/- 50%.

The Oldlady's last ride I traded it in at 125K miles, had a 7500 mile interval, and it was a Volvo wagon with typical stop and go service. To build in 7.5k drain interval Volvo put 6.5 quarts in the pan on a 2.4 liter 5 sparker. That is a whole lot of oil for a small engine. Even with running only Amsoil, mobile one, syntec gold cap (only gold cap). the engine did have a good bit of varnish in it. While not harmful, to my mind just looks bad.

My Type R 1.8 liter 8600 RPM abuse engine 13 years old 85k, even with 5 K between oil changes the oil is black as midnight by 3K, and there is a good bit of varnish. About 4.5 quarts in the pan.

My 3.5 I thought the factory said 5k, well it is lifetime, I did a 1000 mile and I slowely worked it back to the standard (at least that I what I believe it to be 5k interval) 5, 10, 15, 20 drain, I'm closing on 30k and don't note much buildup at all, but this is work and back so that is about 2 heat cycles a day, I think it is a 5 quart pan.

So there you have it 5k varnish, 5K clean, 7.5K varnish all with top quality oil, I'd say 5K is where I change my oil on the new Van, and 10K on even the best oil is way over the limit for most type of driving. Dunno does varnish really hurt an engine? Will an engine fly apart because of varnish? All probably not, I just feel better when I rebuild engines like my LS1 camaro with 120k miles of ABUSE, the bores just needed a hone, crank got polished and the block was so clean I did not even need a hot tank, same as the heads etc.

Yep, 10k all good, don't think an engine will explode, but it just ain't for me, even with the best oil. 10k on a Type R 1.8 or turbo:notallthere: 10K on a low RPM pushrod GM 2 heat cycles per day engine that you will trade in... sure.
 
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