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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Washed and took my 2012 6.4L SRT out for a drive today. I replaced the oil 7 months ago, November 2020, with Mobile 1 0w40 full synthetic, and only have ~300 miles on this oil and filter. I checked it last time I went out and the fill mark was fine. Today, I stopped for lunch and the car sat on a level spot for at least 30 minutes. I checked the level at least 5 times, wiping off the dipstick each time. Same reading every time, about 3mm over the "SAFE" region. This leaves me a little puzzled and concerned. The oil appears caramel colored and practically new.

What would YOU do?

Drain a 1/2 quart and remeasure? Do a total oil change (I have plenty of oil and filters so it's not a concern). I am at 7 months and the dash is telling me it's time for a change, but there's only 300 miles on this oil. Or maybe remeasure when it's completely cold? Or is it safe and normal, slightly above the "safe" hash marks?
 

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First thing I’d do is drive it a lot more than 300 miles in that time window. You know you put 7 in, and no detectable leaks right? I’d stop right there. Your car isn’t making more oil, so let it be. Recheck after a time that will let everything settle to ease your mind.

This is what I’d do..... you asked and there it is.
 

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That's a little bizarre. If it was fine before and now it's over-filled, something is amiss.

If the oil level truly is increasing, then either coolant (bad head gasket?) or gasoline (bad fuel injector leaking) is getting into the oil raising the level. I can't imagine that there would be enough condensation occurring to actually increase the oil level.

I'd drain the oil and hope you don't (a) see any milkiness that would indicate water in the oil or (b) smell gasoline in the oil. Measure how much drains out as best you can. And let it drain for a long time to get as much out as possible so you'll know you're only going to have 7qts in the engine when you refill.

The Oil Indictor system is duty based, not mileage nor time. I had one instance with my '05 GTO when the water pump failed and the the ran warmer than usual but didn't boil over or drastically overheat. However, the Oil Indicator system quickly called for an oil change and it had only been about 1,500 miles since the previous change.
 
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There re two different sticks out there reading about 1/4" different. I found this replacing a stick when the ring broke off.
Then there is the anti drain back flapper in the oil filter. Sometimes they will allow some to pass and you get a little higher reading.
I calibrated mine by filling the new oil filter, pouring the rest of the oil in, letting it settle and checked it. I wound up with the 04798272AF stick.

1023547
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I normally like to do my own, but my last oil change was a freebie Veteran's day offer at my garage. I provided the oil, exactly 7 individual quarts. So that's what should be in there, and my shop is trustworthy. They returned the 7 empty quart bottles. Whenever they do work for me I always ask for my old parts and boxes and they know this. Let's me see the old parts, and it sorta keeps shops honest.

I don't know if I'm wrong, the gauge is wrong, I read it wrong last time or today, perhaps last time the car was just barely warm and this time it was fully warm... these dipstick gauges are really imperfect and seem to depend on many variables - how level is the surface, how warm in the engine, etc. I'll be trying again with a totally cold engine on flat surface soon.

I don't see any evidence of frothy or milky, no leaks of any kind. This car only has 8,800 miles on the odometer. I should drive it more, but I don't daily it and I barely drive much and have to rotate all my miles on 7 vehicles. It's a bit of a challenge, actually. But I like having all my vehicles so that's not going to change. As it is, I find myself making up reasons to get out and drive just to run them regularly...

I'm going to carefully monitor this, and maybe drain a 1/2 quart and recheck. Or just do a entire oil change and filter change. Haven't decided.

What is the correct oil temps and pressures you all are seeing, so I can monitor those gauges?
 

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I normally like to do my own, but my last oil change was a freebie Veteran's day offer at my garage. I provided the oil, exactly 7 individual quarts. So that's what should be in there, and my shop is trustworthy. They returned the 7 empty quart bottles. Whenever they do work for me I always ask for my old parts and boxes and they know this. Let's me see the old parts, and it sorta keeps shops honest.

I don't know if I'm wrong, the gauge is wrong, I read it wrong last time or today, perhaps last time the car was just barely warm and this time it was fully warm... these dipstick gauges are really imperfect and seem to depend on many variables - how level is the surface, how warm in the engine, etc. I'll be trying again with a totally cold engine on flat surface soon.

I don't see any evidence of frothy or milky, no leaks of any kind. This car only has 8,800 miles on the odometer. I should drive it more, but I don't daily it and I barely drive much and have to rotate all my miles on 7 vehicles. It's a bit of a challenge, actually. But I like having all my vehicles so that's not going to change. As it is, I find myself making up reasons to get out and drive just to run them regularly...

I'm going to carefully monitor this, and maybe drain a 1/2 quart and recheck. Or just do a entire oil change and filter change. Haven't decided.

What is the correct oil temps and pressures you all are seeing, so I can monitor those gauges?
I am diagnosed with OCD and even I think you are looking too much into this. Your car is fine, slightly over the top "safe zone" mark is just fine. If you were truly overfilled you would have evidence of the oil being whipped up by the crank and you would very likely see oil pressure drops because of the airated oil. If it was dangerously overfilled your oil level will be INCHES above the safe zone not MM's. Like others have stated, almost every time I check my oil it's a few mm over or under the top "safe" mark, even in the same OCI. I always check it in the same spot (in my garage). The only time you should be concerned is if you drop below the bottom "safe" mark. Worry less, drive more...

What puzzles me is why you put Mobil 1 in? Sure it's a good oil and will cause no problem since you are using the correct weight BUT Mobil 1 is does not carry the correct certification to be used in newer Mopar engines to maintain factory warranty coverage. Now, it is true that this is 99.9% because Mobil didn't want to pay for the tests to carry the cert on their products but it does give the dodge a way to deny a warranty claim because you used an oil that doesn't carry the proper certification for your engine. There are plenty of high-quality affordable oils that do carry the cert so there is no reason to use an oil that isn't technically approved. Especially with all the horror stories of dodge bending over backwards to not pay out warranty claims lately.
 

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Washed and took my 2012 6.4L SRT out for a drive today. I replaced the oil 7 months ago, November 2020, with Mobile 1 0w40 full synthetic, and only have ~300 miles on this oil and filter. I checked it last time I went out and the fill mark was fine. Today, I stopped for lunch and the car sat on a level spot for at least 30 minutes. I checked the level at least 5 times, wiping off the dipstick each time. Same reading every time, about 3mm over the "SAFE" region. This leaves me a little puzzled and concerned. The oil appears caramel colored and practically new.

What would YOU do?

Drain a 1/2 quart and remeasure? Do a total oil change (I have plenty of oil and filters so it's not a concern). I am at 7 months and the dash is telling me it's time for a change, but there's only 300 miles on this oil. Or maybe remeasure when it's completely cold? Or is it safe and normal, slightly above the "safe" hash marks?
Did you check the oil level on both sides of the dipstick?

I’ve experienced the variable level you’re talking about, and I’ve figured out that it’s oil residue from the dipstick tube or something. If I flip the dipstick around and look at the other side when it does this to me, the other side is always where I expect it to be.

The only other variable I’ve seen affect my oil levels on the dipstick beyond what I expect normally is when I check the oil with the car sitting on an incline, e.g. parked in my driveway.

my driveway isn’t that unlevel, but it’s unlevel enough to make the dipstick read a quart low if I check it with the car sitting in it like I normally park.
 

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I'd drive it another 5 months then change it and not worry about nuttin else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am diagnosed with OCD and even I think you are looking too much into this. Your car is fine, slightly over the top "safe zone" mark is just fine. If you were truly overfilled you would have evidence of the oil being whipped up by the crank and you would very likely see oil pressure drops because of the airated oil. If it was dangerously overfilled your oil level will be INCHES above the safe zone not MM's. Like others have stated, almost every time I check my oil it's a few mm over or under the top "safe" mark, even in the same OCI. I always check it in the same spot (in my garage). The only time you should be concerned is if you drop below the bottom "safe" mark. Worry less, drive more...

What puzzles me is why you put Mobil 1 in? Sure it's a good oil and will cause no problem since you are using the correct weight BUT Mobil 1 is does not carry the correct certification to be used in newer Mopar engines to maintain factory warranty coverage. Now, it is true that this is 99.9% because Mobil didn't want to pay for the tests to carry the cert on their products but it does give the dodge a way to deny a warranty claim because you used an oil that doesn't carry the proper certification for your engine. There are plenty of high-quality affordable oils that do carry the cert so there is no reason to use an oil that isn't technically approved. Especially with all the horror stories of dodge bending over backwards to not pay out warranty claims lately.
Just a note on the Mobile 1. My SRT is a 2012, many years before the Pennzoil relationship and MS-12633. Mobile 1 was the factory fill and about the only game in town for 0W40. Manual and oil cap recommends 0W40. It wasn't until, what, ~2016 or so, maybe 2018, that Pennzoil had a 0W40 and MS-12633 cert? Different debate. Perhaps MS-12633 is important. Perhaps not. Perhaps the others meet the criteria but haven't bothered with the certs since the 6.2L and 6.4L is such a relatively small market. There's time and money involved and oil companies may not see it as worth the investment. But, perhaps time and inspections have found the MS-12633 criteria prolongs engines... It's possible.

Anyway, I've now got 11 gallons of Valvoline (claims to meet MS-12633), Mobile 1, Castrol Edge, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W40 (meets MS-12633) oils now, all in house for the future oil changes. I'm not sure what, if anything, the MS-12633 warrants, and I'm guessing they all meet the criteria but haven't bothered with the certs (time and/or 'pay-to-play'). In oil analysis I've seen the PUP seems to have very high moly content, so maybe a shot of moly is a good additive. Then again, the other companies have different anti-wear packs. So, honestly, I really don't know. But the manual I have recommends 0W40...

I've also got a dozen filters. It's just a comfort level for me, but I like to have plenty of consumables on-hand. Several years of oil and filters is my comfort level.

So, doing an oil change is not big deal. Just really confused by the difficult to read-dipsticks some times. Maybe I'm the dipstick!!!! I'll check if flat and cold tomorrow, and see what's what. Maybe have to drain 1/2 qt. to be safe.
 

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Well, I think you are certainly well stocked for the future. It’s going to take a really, really long time to use that supply doing 300 miles every seven months. I understand you have a lot of driving options, but your car looks too good to be saving it for the next owner.
 

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Washed and took my 2012 6.4L SRT out for a drive today. I replaced the oil 7 months ago, November 2020, with Mobile 1 0w40 full synthetic, and only have ~300 miles on this oil and filter. I checked it last time I went out and the fill mark was fine. Today, I stopped for lunch and the car sat on a level spot for at least 30 minutes. I checked the level at least 5 times, wiping off the dipstick each time. Same reading every time, about 3mm over the "SAFE" region. This leaves me a little puzzled and concerned. The oil appears caramel colored and practically new.

What would YOU do?

Drain a 1/2 quart and remeasure? Do a total oil change (I have plenty of oil and filters so it's not a concern). I am at 7 months and the dash is telling me it's time for a change, but there's only 300 miles on this oil. Or maybe remeasure when it's completely cold? Or is it safe and normal, slightly above the "safe" hash marks?
Just some general comments....

It is important to when changing the oil do so with the engine/oil up to temperature. The drain time is important. Too short a drain time means there is still "too much" oil still in the engine. If you then add the recommended amount of oil the level could read high. The flip side is if you let the oil drain too long when you add the recommended amount of oil the level could read low.

If the engine is hot and the drain time is adhered too then one adds the necessary amount of oil. Unfortunately when the oil level is checked on flat ground but with the engine and fresh oil up to temperature the level may not be where one might expect it. The level could be a bit higher. This is because the dipstick may not be that accurate a measuring tool.

With my other cars the techs were careful to follow the factory oil drain procedure regarding having the engine up to temperature and of course on the lift the car was level. The oil drain interval was 20 minutes. Newer models the oil drain interval was one hour. There was also a longer drain interval and a fill amount that was used for a car that was brought in and the oil drain started just before quitting time.

The techs would then add the factory specified amount of oil to the engine then knowing the right amount of oil was in the engine -- the oil dispensing gun in the bay had a digital readout -- would start the engine and let it run to bring the fresh oil up to temperature -- which when I changed the oil this took just a few minutes at most given the engine was hot to begin with -- then shut the engine off and wait the necessary amount of time then check the level. With some of my cars this required the engine be off and off for 5 minutes. The engine had a dipstick but also an electronic oil level measuring system. I always checked the oil level with both to ensure both showed the expected oil level.

Other cars the engine had to be running at idle, up to temperature, and the car level before the oil level could be checked. There was no dipstick.

Because the tech (or the times I changed the oil myself, I) had followed the factory oil change procedure this was the way to confirm the electronic oil level measurement system was functioning correctly.

This applies to the dipstick. The right amount of oil is drained from the engine then the specified amount of fresh oil is added to the engine and the level checked to ensure the oil measurement device -- dipstick or in some cars the electronic oil measuring system -- delivers a reading that is in agreement with the known correct amount of oil in the engine.

If the dash is telling you it is time to change the oil then you should change the oil. I understand there can be a reluctance to change the oil especially with just 300 miles on it. But the factory calls for an oil change based on time if one doesn't drive enough miles to trigger an oil change. 'course almost certainly the car is out of any warranty and you can do what you want.

I'd drive the car more 300 miles in 6+ months if it were mine.

If you change the oil you can obtain a sample of the oil from midstream and send it out to be analyzed. At 300 miles mainly because of the level apparently going *up" you are concerned if there is any water/antifreeze in the oil.

I can relate that I had the oil analyzed from one (new) engine at 4K miles and the report was the oil contained 7% water. With over 9 quarts of oil capacity that was around 1/2 quart of water. No the coolant wasn't getting into the oil the water was from the normal combustion contamination and driving the car in real cold weather that resulted in the oil never getting hot enough to boil the water out of the oil.

But I dare say if the level is up due to water in the oil that just draining the oil into a clean pan and letting it sit for a while you can check for water sign. It will be on the bottom of the drain pan.

At any rate drain the oil with the engine up to temperature. Drain the oil for the recommended amount of time. Add in the correct amount of oil then start the engine and check for leaks and finding none let the engine run long enough to ensure the fresh oil is up to temperature. Turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 5 minutes then check the level. This lets you know with correct amount of oil in the engine what the dipstick reading should be.
 

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3mm over is fine; there's some leeway that you won't have the crank counter weights splashing into the oil with that small amount.

remember that fluids expand when they're hot - especially engine oil - going from ambient temp to 212*F +

what I've found over the years (almost 13 years of Hemi engine ownership) is that the 7 quarts of oil & new filter gets you to the proper fill level.

The dipstick end enters the oil at an angle - one side will show "high" and the reverse side will show right at the FULL mark.

often I've flipped the dipstick around and checked the level. With mine the writing on the handle facing the right way (printing / logo) has the markings facing towards the engine:
- it will show slightly lower than full. turn it around and the backside will show higher

so I'll re-insert the stick and check the reading with it flipped 180* around.

with the full level - there's probably > 2 1/2 inches between the oil and the crank counter weights

and the V8s have a windage tray as well.

when they engines were being designed, they tested with overfill (1 quart over) and low fill to insure there would be adequate protection during operation.

and yes, there can be variations in dipsticks.

What I'd say is do an oil change and put a file mark where the "full" level appears after running the engine and allowing oil to drain back into the pan and check it.

Its 7 quarts for the 5.7 and 392. Hellcats varied from this in the early years, but I think they're 7 quarts in the more recent years ('18 onward)
 

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I still think it's a odd that immediately following the oil change the level was fine and now - after sitting level for 30 minutes - the level is higher. Just seems odd.

I wondered if the dealership rushed the oil change and didn't let all of the old oil drain out, but the OP said that he checked and the level was fine following the oil change. I typically do my oil changes early in the day before it gets hot so I warm up the engine, put it up on the ramps, and then start the draining while I go inside and eat breakfast.

".....What puzzles me is why you put Mobil 1 in? Sure it's a good oil and will cause no problem since you are using the correct weight BUT Mobil 1 is does not carry the correct certification to be used in newer Mopar engines to maintain factory warranty coverage. Now, it is true that this is 99.9% because Mobil didn't want to pay for the tests to carry the cert on their products but it does give the dodge a way to deny a warranty claim because you used an oil that doesn't carry the proper certification for your engine. There are plenty of high-quality affordable oils that do carry the cert so there is no reason to use an oil that isn't technically approved. Especially with all the horror stories of dodge bending over backwards to not pay out warranty claims lately."

Just a note on the Mobile 1. My SRT is a 2012, many years before the Pennzoil relationship and MS-12633. Mobile 1 was the factory fill and about the only game in town for 0W40. Manual and oil cap recommends 0W40. It wasn't until, what, ~2016 or so, maybe 2018, that Pennzoil had a 0W40 and MS-12633 cert? Different debate. Perhaps MS-12633 is important. Perhaps not. Perhaps the others meet the criteria but haven't bothered with the certs since the 6.2L and 6.4L is such a relatively small market. There's time and money involved and oil companies may not see it as worth the investment. But, perhaps time and inspections have found the MS-12633 criteria prolongs engines... It's possible.

Anyway, I've now got 11 gallons of Valvoline (claims to meet MS-12633), Mobile 1, Castrol Edge, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W40 (meets MS-12633) oils now, all in house for the future oil changes. I'm not sure what, if anything, the MS-12633 warrants, and I'm guessing they all meet the criteria but haven't bothered with the certs (time and/or 'pay-to-play'). In oil analysis I've seen the PUP seems to have very high moly content, so maybe a shot of moly is a good additive. Then again, the other companies have different anti-wear packs. So, honestly, I really don't know. But the manual I have recommends 0W40...

I've also got a dozen filters. It's just a comfort level for me, but I like to have plenty of consumables on-hand. Several years of oil and filters is my comfort level.

So, doing an oil change is not big deal. Just really confused by the difficult to read-dipsticks some times. Maybe I'm the dipstick!!!! I'll check if flat and cold tomorrow, and see what's what. Maybe have to drain 1/2 qt. to be safe.
If you're going to drain a little, you might as well drain it all and start over knowing that there's only 7qts in the engine. Especially since you have plenty of oil and filters on hand.



I like Mobil 1. I've used it for 30 years in my vehicles and still use it in my daily (2005 Monte Carlo LS - 3.4L/207ci). So, it's not that I'm out to get them.

Actually, I trust Mobil 1. And it's Mobil 1, not Dodge, that's telling you not to use Mobil 1 in a 6.4L/392ci engine.

Mobil 1 does recommend products for the 5.7L/345ci engine so it's not just a FCA/Pennzoil relationship issue.

BTW ... it was 2014 when Dodge began recommending Pennzoil in the Owner's Manual. Not that long after your car was built. The test that Mobil 1 still either hasn't taken or hasn't passed is to measure the oil's ability to protect at idle.

But, hey, you're way out of warranty on your 2012 so you can use whatever you want. Shoot, you can use Extra Virgin Olive Oil if you want to. Should make the exhaust smell good.
 

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Just a note on the Mobile 1. My SRT is a 2012, many years before the Pennzoil relationship and MS-12633. Mobile 1 was the factory fill and about the only game in town for 0W40. Manual and oil cap recommends 0W40. It wasn't until, what, ~2016 or so, maybe 2018, that Pennzoil had a 0W40 and MS-12633 cert? Different debate. Perhaps MS-12633 is important. Perhaps not. Perhaps the others meet the criteria but haven't bothered with the certs since the 6.2L and 6.4L is such a relatively small market. There's time and money involved and oil companies may not see it as worth the investment. But, perhaps time and inspections have found the MS-12633 criteria prolongs engines... It's possible.

Anyway, I've now got 11 gallons of Valvoline (claims to meet MS-12633), Mobile 1, Castrol Edge, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W40 (meets MS-12633) oils now, all in house for the future oil changes. I'm not sure what, if anything, the MS-12633 warrants, and I'm guessing they all meet the criteria but haven't bothered with the certs (time and/or 'pay-to-play'). In oil analysis I've seen the PUP seems to have very high moly content, so maybe a shot of moly is a good additive. Then again, the other companies have different anti-wear packs. So, honestly, I really don't know. But the manual I have recommends 0W40...

I've also got a dozen filters. It's just a comfort level for me, but I like to have plenty of consumables on-hand. Several years of oil and filters is my comfort level.

So, doing an oil change is not big deal. Just really confused by the difficult to read-dipsticks some times. Maybe I'm the dipstick!!!! I'll check if flat and cold tomorrow, and see what's what. Maybe have to drain 1/2 qt. to be safe.
Wow that's crazy lol. I have zero qts of oil and filters stocked up in my garage.

There is a crowd here that changes their oil every 6 months whether or not they drive the car so using their logic (going by Dodge recommendations) those 11 gallons should be throw out while just sitting there. I mean what's the difference if it sits in the car or in the containers for 6 months?

Me I'll go a year if I don't meet the Mile's required and I'm 10 months of synthetic Valvoline in my Challenger with around 3500 miles on that oil. I'll probably change it next month.

I always maintain my cars well and do the recommended oil changes using miles but man there are some OCD dudes here when it comes to that.
That's not a bad thing. I'd like to buy your cars if I were looking for a used one. Just didn't realize some were so technical. ...I guess is the word I'll use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the feedback. Just checked it after letting it sit 24 hours. It's registering inside and at the bottom 1/3rd of the area with hashes marked "SAFE." In spite of being on a 5 degree angled driveway, I am comfortable with this. I'll recheck on level surface, when cold, at my earliest opportunity. Visually the oil looks mildly dark and worn, but still retains caramel color. It smells fine. No observable particles on the white paper towel. Based on time alone, I'll probably do an oil change very soon regardless. My comfort level is somewhere between 6-12 months and the expense is trivial compared to the value of the car.

As to the "high" reading, perhaps oil expands a little when at 200 degrees. I had driven it pretty hard for about an hour before stopping, and checking. It wouldn't take much "expansion" for the 6+ qts in the oil pan to read a few mm high. That's my blind guess at this point.

Wow that's crazy lol. I have zero qts of oil and filters stocked up in my garage.

There is a crowd here that changes their oil every 6 months whether or not they drive the car so using their logic (going by Dodge recommendations) those 11 gallons should be throw out while just sitting there. I mean what's the difference if it sits in the car or in the containers for 6 months?

Me I'll go a year if I don't meet the Mile's required and I'm 10 months of synthetic Valvoline in my Challenger with around 3500 miles on that oil. I'll probably change it next month.

I always maintain my cars well and do the recommended oil changes using miles but man there are some OCD dudes here when it comes to that.
That's not a bad thing. I'd like to buy your cars if I were looking for a used one. Just didn't realize some were so technical. ...I guess is the word I'll use.
I find comfort in having supplies. And it's just more economical than getting supplies only when you need them. Oil doesn't go bad in sealed containers in climate control (or, at least, it has an incredibly long shelf life measured in probably decades). The oil companies claim ~5 years shelf life. I'd bet that it's 2-4x that in proper storage. For "old" oil I'd just pour it into a clear container to visually inspect for separation and contamination (water), and feel comfortable using it if not visually bad. It's not milk. It's processed oil.

Oil does start to degrade when exposed to elements, heat breakdown, acids, old oil that is still in the crackcase (5-8% remains from prior changes), crud, chemicals in gasoline, hot and cold extremes, pressure, moisture, etc. Draining out old oil removes a lot of contaminants. A year is probably a good rule of thumb, 18-24 months is probably pushing it in a car. And of course engines do need to be run regularly. That's part of my struggle, keeping them all operating regularly. But I'd rather have them, than not.

You make fair points, and my first oil change on this 6.4L was at month 13 and 2300 miles that I put on after buying it in 2019. So I'm not necessarily OCD. I just want to take the best care of it that I can. I overlooked the "6 month" recommendation and went 13 months. I don't think that hurt it, but I have re-evaluated and will be in the ~6 month camp going forward, or as close to it as reasonably possible. I'm a busy person! Also, to the point, I have the PUP that is recommended so draining the Mobile 1 and filling with PUP will give me an opportunity to notice any difference in tick or performance. I doubt there will be, but we'll see.

My other vehicles don't have the "6 month" recommendation this does. And they are all generally less valuable (not less useful, some more useful actually). Those are all on the 12 month rotation, some with absurdly low miles - e.g. my lifted 4x4 Tundra probably will have 500 miles on this oil by the time a 1-year oil change comes... But oil is cheap, $25 for a change, and the truck is probably $20 grand.
 

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Everybody is different.

When I need a oil change, I just get it when I need it or look for Groupons and take it somewhere if it's a good deal.

I have a Walmart near by so the oil is always cheap there by the 5 quart bottles and they have brands I use like Pennz and Valvoline and the filters I use.
Last change I got a Groupon at Meineke and my synthetic Valvoline oil change was $27.

I rarely check the oil level unless I see oil spots but I don't have any in the 26 years I've lived at my house. Or if I'm taking a trip, then I'll check it it has been a while since I changed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Everybody is different.

When I need a oil change, I just get it when I need it or look for Groupons and take it somewhere if it's a good deal.

I have a Walmart near by so the oil is always cheap there by the 5 quart bottles and they have brands I use like Pennz and Valvoline and the filters I use.
Last change I got a Groupon at Meineke and my synthetic Valvoline oil change was $27.

I rarely check the oil level unless I see oil spots but I don't have any in the 26 years I've lived at my house. Or if I'm taking a trip, then I'll check it it has been a while since I changed it.
@Rayzaa
To each their own, but I think we've seen the folly of relying on the "Just In Time" model in the last year, sufficient to learn many lessons. People who fail to learn to stock up on important things, go without or stand in lines and pay premiums. In the last year alone there have been shortages and corresponding price hikes in lumber, toilet paper, copper, steel, lead, brass, ammunition, rubber for tires, computer chips and parts, gasoline, cars (new and used), guns, food, and various car parts. Big and small events such as covid, embargos, sunk ships, damaged plants, computer hacking, and political decisions have caused this.

In my case, I bought probably 5-10 years of motor oil and filters for my various vehicles. My costs are known and sunk, typically purchased when convenient and at discounted prices, when oil was between $0-50 per barrel. Today it's ~$70 barrel. It was negative and in the teens a year ago...

In just 2021 Q1, the price of gasoline was up almost 50% from 2020 Q4.
What happens when political decisions or wars cause oil to go to $500 per barrel and a quart of oil costs $30? A repeat of the TP situation in 2020, and a corresponding oil change estimated to be $200-250? The guy who bought 10 years worth of supplies is going to look quite smart...

That's not far fetched. In 2008 oil jumped to $160 per barrel, and gas to $5+ for an extended period. Today, political and geo-political events have and can continue to harm the oil and gas industries and the next shortage is just a war away... and it may be more long-term this time...
 

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I recently changed the oil for the 1st time on my 20SP. It calls for 7 qts, but was at the top of the full mark after 6.75 qts. A full 7 qts would put it over the full mark by a noticeable amount.
 
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