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2021 Challenger RT Shaker A8
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Just did my first oil change over the past weekend. Never in my life have I had as difficult a time removing an oil filter as I did just now. I could not get that sucker to break loose now matter what. Do they put them on robotically at the factory? 500 FT. LBS of twist to make sure it doesn't fall off? Geez...I finally got it off, after a couple of hours. Will be K&N filters with the hex nut from this point forward!
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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The factory installed oil filters are like that many times. I can’t say why exactly, but I’ve heard countless stories about that very same scenario.

All subsequent oil filters should not be hard to remove, assuming they are installed with reasonable torque (hand tight has always been sufficient for me).
 

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They are a little tight but mainly because they put them on dry and they stick.

No need for K&N, just need the correct oil filter wrench.

76 mm/14 flute = fits MO-339 factory installed filter on 2015-up 5.7L.

93 mm/15 flute = fits MO-899 factory installed on all Scat Pack, SRT 392 and Hellcat 6.2L supercharged, Demon, Redeye, Super Stock, etc. Will also fit the SRT MO-041 filter and all aftermarket MO-899 replacement filters.





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They are a little tight but mainly because they put them on dry and they stick.

No need for K&N, just need the correct oil filter wrench.

76 mm/14 flute = fits MO-339 factory installed filter on 2015-up 5.7L.

93 mm/15 flute = fits MO-899 factory installed on all Scat Pack, SRT 392 and Hellcat 6.2L supercharged, Demon, Redeye, Super Stock, etc. Will also fit the SRT MO-041 filter and all aftermarket MO-899 replacement filters.





Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
This is what I used. After I removed it, with a lot of force, the filter's O-ring stuck to the mounting base. If this happens, be sure to remove it before you install a new filter.
 

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They are a little tight but mainly because they put them on dry and they stick.

No need for K&N, just need the correct oil filter wrench.

76 mm/14 flute = fits MO-339 factory installed filter on 2015-up 5.7L.

93 mm/15 flute = fits MO-899 factory installed on all Scat Pack, SRT 392 and Hellcat 6.2L supercharged, Demon, Redeye, Super Stock, etc. Will also fit the SRT MO-041 filter and all aftermarket MO-899 replacement filters.





Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I have used those and had them slip. The one I recommended can't do that and can be used on any size.
 

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I have used those and had them slip. The one I recommended can't do that and can be used on any size.
Yeah that's true, I wish those wrenches were made a little better and not just stamped steel, I guess some are but a lot more $$$.

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I recall that when servicing a friend's '14 R/T - thankfully he had the old metal strap style filter wrench - it was needed. The metal handle was flexing while trying to get that filter to budge

and yet the filter on my '16 SPS - wasn't bad, snug but came off without extraordinary effort
- but there was a big old dent in the bottom of the filter - someone was a bit clumsy either loading the engine on the rack at Saltillo (they're shipped by rail) or when offloading from the rack into the k-member @ Brampton...
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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Strap Wrench works really well, or worse case scenario tap a screwdriver through it.
 

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2021 Challenger R/T plus T/A 6-speed Gold Rush
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Had problems removing the factory one as well, auto zone gave me the wrong size so I’m trying to also use a set of filter pliers but not enough room to operate. Finally I used a screw driver to punch a hole to let the oil drain while I borrowed my neighbor’s car to get the correct filter wrench size. Someone on the forum answered my inquiry to get the right size and finally got it off.
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Strap Wrench works really well, or worse case scenario tap a screwdriver through it.
How in the world do you get your hand in there to get a good bite on the filter? 😮
 

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- but there was a big old dent in the bottom of the filter - someone was a bit clumsy either loading the engine on the rack at Saltillo (they're shipped by rail) or when offloading from the rack into the k-member @ Brampton...
I had a dent too, guess they really throw the engines around.


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+1 - strap wrench is great and some filters have a nut on the bottom which helps if you don't have one of the various filter-specific tools. Also a good idea to wipe the filter with degreaser and make it dry with the strap and ensure you can position yourself under the car to get maximum leverage - otherwise you will wear yourself out struggling to reach and get torque on it. I went from Amsoil filters to K&N although there are a number of good filters out there.

If you remove the bottom plastic cover and position the car so it it is lifted higher on the passenger side - you will be able to get good leverage and allow for gravity to get the most old oil out.
 

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Best oil filter wrench I ever used.... I've also used a long screwdriver. Just punch the screwdriver through and start turning. Oil filters only need to be hand tight about 1/4 turn after it stops spinning
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I had a dent too, guess they really throw the engines around.


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mine looked like someone took a ball peen hammer and hit as hard as possible with one hand one the bottom end
- you figure that lifting a nearly 600# engine fully dressed out, all it takes is bump into something and that sheet metal housing will get a dent...
 

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2016 Challenger R/T Scat Pack Pitch Black A8
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I have always used metal strap wrenches as they adjust for all the different equipment we use. Only one time did one fail, handle bent. Eventually it did come off.
 

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How in the world do you get your hand in there to get a good bite on the filter? 😮
it is a tight spot, but you only need 1/4 or even less to get it loose than go the rest of the way by hand.
 

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Oil filters need to be tightened 3/4 of a turn after the gasket contacts the sealing surface.
 
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