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Discussion Starter #1
I hope this is not normal for this car , at speed on the highway its not very stable and does not want to stay straight, to me it feels like a 1970 car kinda floaty and loose steering. It does not pull to either side when you let go of the wheel but it does bump steer a bit and it kinda dances around a lot . And forget a crosswind :notallthere:my truck is better . I have been back to the dealer and they did the alignment (toe front and rear) and everything else is within range it did help a little bit but this is not right still for 2010 car . I just put the Petty shock tower brace on and still no help .

Before i go throw a whole new suspension on this thing does anyone have some better alignment specs?

Car is a 2010 R/t with stock 18's and only 1,500 miles on it and it has been this way since day one .
 

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Can you test drive another one at the dealer's and compare?

Doesn't sound right to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you test drive another one at the dealer's and compare?

Doesn't sound right to me.

No can do ,they have no challengers at all . There are very very few challengers around me here in Conn. ,I have seen 3 on the road in the past few months . The dealer had to go get my car in a another state even (Penn).
 

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Just off the cuff, have you checked your tire pressure lately? These cars are generally very stable no matter what trim level. Hope you get it figured out.

Jack
 

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Check to recalibrate your steering. Look up the "how to" list on this forum, a MUST, loads of info
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes tire psi is perfect , I just did the first oil change the other day and looked over the whole suspension when I was under there also . Took my time looking since I have my own lift and nada all looks good and tight .
 

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It will cost you some money, but you might want to have an alignment shop other than the dealer check it out. The symptoms you describe are usually worn out suspension components or alignment problems.

Since your car is essentially new, you probably don't have worn out steering or suspension components but you could have loose or defective ones.
 

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There was a recall on certain 2010s for no strut tower nut

Some third party went belly up so they never put the nut on the car. The dealer should know that though and probably checked it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Some third party went belly up so they never put the nut on the car. The dealer should know that though and probably checked it.

Are you referring to the nut behind the wheel ? :notallthere: .....as in me :rofl:


All strut tower nuts are in place and torqued to spec ,I just put on the Petty brace :)
 

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That definitely does not sound right. I have driven my car on a Race track (road course) in excess of 100mph and the car is always dead solid stable?
 

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http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/i-didnt-know-challenger-tips-tricks-20759/

There you go. It is somewhere in there, along with other useful tips and tricks

I located it:

If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time. To calibrate, perform the following:

1) Start the engine.
2) Center the steering wheel.
3) Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left until the internal stop in the steering gear is met, then turn the wheel all the way to the right until the opposite internal stop in the steering gear is met.
4) Center the steering wheel.
5) Stop the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok I did the SAS recalibration and YES it did help a good amount but it still is not right . As much as I dread going to a dealer I have to give them a chance to make this right before I throw money at it . I still wanna see better specs for alignment this cant be right .


Also I used this procedure from a different site which is a little different then above :

Centering the Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS calibration (steering Angle Sensor)
On Disconnect of the vehicle battery;
You may need to do a SAS calibration if when restoring power your steering wheel and steering angle sensor get out of calibration.
This is where the steering wheel is centered, but the actual front wheels are not seen centered (electronically).


If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) within the Antilock Brake Module (ABM) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration (initialization) using the scan tool anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time.

If the SAS is not calibrated following battery reconnection, the ESP/BAS indicator lamp will flash continuously with no DTCs.

Step 1: Start car:
Center the wheels (not the steering wheel, but the actual front wheels need to be straight) then Turn OFF car, open door to kill electronics, wait
for 3 minutes for vehicle CANBUS to shutdown.

Step 2: Start car:
turn wheels full right turn and hold for a 10 Mississippi count.
turn wheels full left and hold for a 10 Mississippi count
turn wheels full right
turn wheels full left
Return to Center.


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Note:
In the dealers StarScan tool, it directs you thru each step with a countdown timer of 10 seconds.. but the StarScan is not needed to

calibrate the SAS "Steering Control Sensors", all it is doing is walking you thru the above listed steps.

This applies to all models (SX,RT,SRT) of Dodge Challenger 2008 and above, as all have the SCM (Steering Control Module)
at the base of the steering column.
 

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I live in conn. Up new Milford way. Mine is an srt. And your more than welcome to drive mine and see if it's different Pm me if you want
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I live in conn. Up new Milford way. Mine is an srt. And your more than welcome to drive mine and see if it's different Pm me if you want

Thank you , I just might take you up on the offer at some point, way to much going on at the moment to do it now . Maybe better you drive mine and see what you think since I assume you have had yours longer . I'm down in Trumbull btw :cheers:
 

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I would check EVERY fastener in the rear cradle area for torque AND even to be sure all nuts are present. Mine had to have a bushing replaced on the passenger side cradle which required a drop to do so. Upon completion all was fine until it wasn't ! They hadn't torqued a nut on drivers side and as it loosened the float began and when it fell off it felt similar to fishtailing on snow but it was mid Summer. Not sure what you call it but the one on mine went from knuckle area upward, inward and forward towards fuel saddle and rested in a fork like recvr. Bolt and nut were gone completely but the fork kept the arm from dropping to the road.
 

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Can you check all your sway bar end links and brackets? Almost sounds like something is disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I would check EVERY fastener in the rear cradle area for torque AND even to be sure all nuts are present. Mine had to have a bushing replaced on the passenger side cradle which required a drop to do so. Upon completion all was fine until it wasn't ! They hadn't torqued a nut on drivers side and as it loosened the float began and when it fell off it felt similar to fishtailing on snow but it was mid Summer. Not sure what you call it but the one on mine went from knuckle area upward, inward and forward towards fuel saddle and rested in a fork like recvr. Bolt and nut were gone completely but the fork kept the arm from dropping to the road.
Can you check all your sway bar end links and brackets? Almost sounds like something is disconnected.

Thanks guys :), I have my own lift so I did a very good look around at all components all looks good .

I'm not one to normally post questions about fixin things as I'm usually the one doing the fixin for everyone else , but this one has me stumped :scratchhead:. This is my first dodge though so keep the ideas coming . :cheers:
 
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