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Opti-Coat 2.0?
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....I have a syringe of OC sitting in my detailing cabinet right now. I bought soon after the release to the general public. I have yet to use it myself but if you want more feedback, I would suggest doing a search on detailing-specific forums like Autopia.org. Also, keep in mind that this is the same product that has been available to professional retailers for about 2 years. There is even a very detailed long term test of the product on Autopia. ....Im on my phone right now otherwise I would provide the link.
Anyhow, this product does require some level of attention/care when applying. If you screw up, the only way to remove it would be via abrasion (ie compound/polish). Also, unless you have the ability to correct and prep the finish yourself, I would think long and hard about using such a product. I would say it is more geared toward the "enthusiast" than the average Joe.
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I would be afraid of applying a permanent resin product to my Challenger. What if it doesn't perform as advertised?
There are so many proven waxes that will give you a fantastic finish, like Meguires and Adams, why experiment? When something is too good to be true ("never have to wax your car again"), it usually is.
There are so many proven waxes that will give you a fantastic finish, like Meguires and Adams, why experiment? When something is too good to be true ("never have to wax your car again"), it usually is.
….that’s why I mentioned that it’s not a product for everyone. However, it does have a market and there are also plenty of users in the detailing community who have had great success with it for the past 2 years. It was only by overwhelming demand that Optimum finally caved in and released Opti-Coat to the public. If you have the opportunity to visit detailing-specific community/sites, you will see that the product has proven itself during this time. Now that it has reached the hands of average consumer/enthusiast, even more reviews/feedback are being shared within the detailing community.
The only difference between the old OC (now called Opti-Guard) and the new 2.0 version is that the consumer product has a longer initial cure time (extended to ~30 minutes vs. 5 minutes). If you even have used a WOWA (wipe on, walk away) product like Ultima PGP, Optimum Opti-Seal (not Opti-Coat) or Zaino CS, you will have an idea of how Opti-Coat needs to be applied and how it will look when curing. It’s certainly not what I would call a “bubba-proof” product or something for the heavy-handed user.
As far as “too good to be true”, this is not a product that is being touted as a miracle product. It is similar to other semi-permanent/permanent and nano coatings such as G/Techniq, CQuartz, Xzilion, Aquartz, etc. ….it’s nothing substantially radical IMO/IME. However, unless you have the ability to properly correct and prepare your finish prior to application of OC, I would recommend against its use. You will also need plenty of good lighting (i.e. halogen worklamps) since it is key to make sure you don’t have any high spots during the 30 minute cure time (they can easily be knocked down using the applicator). Properly applied (on a properly prepared surface), the product will flash off just like Opti-Seal, UPGP and Zaino CS while over application will look similar a well.
I’m currently testing G/Techniq C4 permanent trim restorer and have (so far) been quite impressed. This is a nano coating that is advertised to last 1-2 years on trim (similar but not the same as OC). ….but like Opti-Coat, the surface must be properly prepared before application. When OC was finally made available, I immediately had ideas of applications for this product in my arsenal. Even if I wouldn’t use it as my main LSP (last step product; wax/sealant), I could still see uses for it on painted trim, wheels and other components other than painted panels. The characteristics of the product alone make it quite attractive to me. ….the main trait (other than longevity) IMO is its shedding ability. Contaminants and even other products simply don’t stick well to the coating (making the car easier to clean). Results I have seen even give FK1000P a run for its money in this regard (FK being one of the best contaminant shedding sealants I have used to date).
The downsides (IMO)….
- Yes, the product is “permanent”. This means you will have to abrade it off if you screw up on a panel.
- It’s resistance to things adhering to it also means that it can’t be layered on itself. You will need to re-buff the panel and then re-apply.
- While OC is supposed to be more resistant to scratches, it is not impervious (as with any coating on the market today). This means that if you want to correct the finish and reapply the product, you will need to remove all of the product first.
- This product requires a bit of a learning curve, some experience and some commitment.
NOTE: I have seen some users that have had success correcting light scratches without compromising the product. Some are also reporting that they have been able to re-apply over a lightly polished coat (but this is not confirmed or supported by the manufacturer).
As I mentioned before, I already have 20ml of this product sitting in my cabinet. I am planning on applying to the hood of my wife’s Forester in the next few weeks and will consider doing the rest of the vehicle if I feel comfortable with the product. However, as with any LSP, most of the finished result is going to be in the correction/prep (which I will be taking care of with my Flex 3401 VRG, assorted pads and polishes). OC is a clear solution and is a “what you see is what you get” type of product. In other words, if you have scratches/swirls you choose not to address prior to application, they will still be visible after the OC is applied. I will be creating a thread similar to the one I did on G/Techniq C4 when I get the chance to use it. ….hopefully my experiences it will help others who are interested in the product.
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