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Discussion Starter #1
I read some old posts on Optima Batteries. As a bit of time has passed for those of you running an Optima Battery - what color tops are you using and are you pleased with the way they're holding up (heat/cold).

Thanks...
 

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Red top will do the job just fine. I have been using them in my cars for a while now. I have one that is about 12 years old and still going strong in a '90 Chrysler.
 

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I never had luck using red tops, they never lasted any longer than the regular discount store batteries did, they usually had good power until they ran down or died, but everyone of them died, i used them for over 10 years on two different cars, but each battery was lucky to last 3 years before it would die off. Spending extra cash on special batteries is a thing of the past, i'll stick with a die hard or a pep boys special. OEM batteries tended to outlast the aftermarket ones.
 

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I think most of the guys here are worried about the "regular" batteries to leak. Given it's in the trunk, it can melt the paint and lead to rust.. Optima and kinetik are sealed.

For long term data, the OP may want to search on lxforums. Most of these guys had their car longer. Just saying..
 

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I've used Optima on my 1970 Corvette for many years and it lasts better than the other batteries I've tried. If you drive your car every day, the red top works well. If you store your car seasonally, the yellow top is best. You can bring yellow top back from the dead many times without destroying it. Of course it is always best to keep a storage charger on your battery when it is idle for a long time.
 

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I've never had luck with a battery in stored cars, even if i start them up every couple months. I've taken to removing them and charging them in the garage, i did get a battery tender (solar) which has done wonders in reenergizing batteries that drained out of power, i've never had cells go dry though sealed or not sealed. The optimas are sealed which is better overall. the old charger battery seems to do well enough, but the stealth still eats a battery if stored longer than a couple months.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think most of the guys here are worried about the "regular" batteries to leak. Given it's in the trunk, it can melt the paint and lead to rust.. Optima and kinetik are sealed.

For long term data, the OP may want to search on lxforums. Most of these guys had their car longer. Just saying..
You kind of hit the nail on the head for me. I'm just a bit concerned with having a traditional battery sitting in my truck and have the potential for a messy acid leak. By the way, I've never had an original OEM battery in my various vehicles last more than 3 years.
 

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does anyone have a model number of one the optimas that fit our cars? Optima site does not show our model in the selection charts.

and their response is not very helpful "we have not fit one of these vehicles, it may be due to the vehicle being so new...." these things have been out for 3 yrs now. c'mon
 

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I have a gov't. contract to work on LLV postal vehicles (mail jeeps) and they all use the red top Optimas because of the heat issues. The foreman at the vehicle maintenance facility for them tells me it's the only battery that holds up here down south.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I was looking at the following model but I need to check on the fit with a tape measure. Spec's below:

#8002-002 34 Red Top
800 Cold Cranking Amps (My OEM Battery is listed at 730)
10” x 6-7/8 x 7 13/16 tall, Weight 37.9 pounds
100 Minutes of Reserve Capacity (for constant performance)
 

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If you charge a Optima like a normal battery it will kill it.

To charge a Optima with a regular charger, you wire a second fully-charged automotive battery (12V+) to the discharged Optima in parallel (+ to + and – to –). Then hook up the charger to either battery, setting the charger at 10 amps for 2 hours and monitoring it frequently.



This is what I use to charge all my optimas. I have had some for 15+ Years.

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ryan ...thanks for the intel. I never thought twice about charging issues.
 

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FYI. I've been looking around. The Odyssey seems pretty tough and well built and has a group 94R. ODYSSEY Batteries

Just like the Optima, it won't leak even if split in half.
It's 45Lbs. I need to weigh the original one for fun and see. The weight is in the right place though.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I checked out the Odyssey battery recommended on their website; however, the CCA was less than both the stock battery for the SRT8 and the Optima Red Top (#8002-002 34).
 

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Hello, I noticed your conversation regarding our batteries and wanted to offer some assistance. Although our batteries and many others (both AGM & flooded) are considered “sealed” batteries, all lead-acid automotive batteries can vent gas in extreme situations. For that reason, we always recommend that any battery installed in an enclosed location be properly-vented to the outside. Our group 27, 51, 34C, and 31 batteries all have ports for connecting a vent hose. Although people do it anyway, we would never recommend installing an unvented battery in any enclosed space, because there's a legitimate, albeit unlikely, safety risk involved.

For example, IF there is a voltage regulator failure, and IF the battery is severely overcharged, and IF this goes unnoticed, and IF the battery vents because the internal pressure exceeds the release pressure of the vents, the gasses are both flammable and toxic. This may sound like a lot of “ifs,” but attorneys and engineers get paid to plan for every worst-case scenario.

As others have indicated, if your car is not a daily driver, regular use of a quality battery tender or maintainer is a very good idea. I cannot tell you whether there is any mechanical benefit to occasionally starting a vehicle while in storage, but there is no electrical benefit. Unless a vehicle is driven in a manner that allows the alternator to do it's job, it may not even replace the energy used to start the vehicle. Most alternators are designed to maintain batteries, not recharge deeply-discharged batteries. Asking an alternator to perform that duty can lead to a cycle of dead batteries and jump-starts, until either the alternator or battery fails.

In most situations, you can treat and charge an Optima just like any other lead-acid battery. However, “gel” or “gel/AGM” charger settings should be avoided, as they will not fully-charge the battery and could damage it. The parallel charging technique Devil posted will work on our batteries, but is usually not necessary, unless the battery has been deeply-discharged. Many battery chargers will not recognize or charge any battery that has been discharged below a minimum voltage threshold, usually around 10.5 volts. This is a charger issue and not unique to Optima. In fact, other manufacturers have dealt with this by simply voiding the warranty on their batteries, if they were found to be discharged below a certain voltage level. We also produced a video that explains this procedure-

If anyone has any questions about our batteries, I'll do my best to answer them.


Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Jim,

Thanks for the great post. It has me asking the question is the OEM battery (situated in the trunk) vented to the outside and if not can sulfuric acid fumes (in certain circumstances) make their way into the cockpit? I'm not worried about my lungs rather the leather interior, ha, ha.
 

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If you charge a Optima like a normal battery it will kill it.

To charge a Optima with a regular charger, you wire a second fully-charged automotive battery (12V+) to the discharged Optima in parallel (+ to + and – to –). Then hook up the charger to either battery, setting the charger at 10 amps for 2 hours and monitoring it frequently.



This is what I use to charge all my optimas. I have had some for 15+ Years.

Ryan
that woulda been good to know a while back, cause I had a couple bad alternators on my old chevelle and it killed a couple of my Optima batteries. It was a pain
 
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