Always make a deal with an out the door cost, or you will be shocked when they add tax, licence, and all fees on top of the price of the car. And when they get you in the room to sign papers , they will try to hit you up for even more . I always get the out the door price and go into the room to sign with a check already made out for that amount.The term is defined by exactly what it says, the price you pay and get the keys with, every aspect of the transaction included so you walk out the door and you're done.
No, no, no... Just go in there and tell them what you want to pay OTD, period. Don't entertain any BS chit-chat about fees, licensing, tax, etc. You should do your homework before you even step foot in their domain by deducting what you think is the maximum discount off the sticker, then add your state's sales tax and then throw on another $500 for the BS fees and come up with a number. Then take your OTD price with you and when they say no, just get up and walk out, period.In simple terms, it's not the price they advertise at, it's not the price they tell you by email, and it's usually not the price they tell you when you show up. It's the price that's right above your signature and how much your bank account just dropped. Like mentioned. Best thing to do is ask them for the OTD price and have them breakdown each item. Car, tax, tags, registration, trade if applicable, and probably a dealer fee. Then work them on each item individually starting with the car price.
Not always true. I've known mine for 20 years.No, no, no... Just go in there and tell them what you want to pay OTD, period. Don't entertain any BS chit-chat about fees, licensing, tax, etc. You should do your homework before you even step foot in their domain by deducting what you think is the maximum discount off the sticker, then add your state's sales tax and then throw on another $500 for the BS fees and come up with a number. Then take your OTD price with you and when they say no, just get up and walk out, period.
At that point they will either let you walk or stop you. If they let you go they WILL contact you soon and ask you to come back to see if you can reach a deal, but don't budge on the price. When it gets to the point where they no longer contact you, you know they are not going lower. Don't hesitate to give them your email address, but don't give them your phone number.
At that point you can either go elsewhere and start all over ot take the deal they offer.
I signed up at carsdirect.com when I bought a Chevy in '09 and they put me in touch with a local fleet dealer and we did the deal over email. Got $6,800 off a $25,000 car. I would highly recommend carsdirect.com if price is your major concern.
I probably paid $1K too much for my '14 R/T but I could not be happier, I did my best but I fell so in love with the damned thing I was at a severe disadvantage.
Always remember two things; a car salesperson is NOT your friend and any deal that's okay with the buyer and seller is a good deal.
You're right and lucky.Not always true. I've known mine for 20 years.
The big benefit of negotiating the OTD price is that it completely eliminates complicating negotiations with last-minute fees. It is THE simplest way to buy a car.I never negotiate OTD pricing. I do get the price of the car, excluding tax, tag, & title. Those numbers are fixed, non-negotiable, and I know what they're going to be whatever car I'm buying. No sense in confusing the issue on the price of the car.
NEVER negotiate based on payment. That's a loser's way of negotiating.
True and he didn't do me any favors other than not shaft me and to advise me of a few things I wouldn't have otherwise known - like buying on the last day of the month can a lot of times render an extra incentive or two. Did in my case.They are there to make money, not to let any go as that's how they support themselves. A friend is not how most car sales are transacted. You're friend did you right and made it up on the next few sales.