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Discussion Starter #1
Is it advisable to put a competition clutch rated a 700-1500 ft lbs of torque on a vehicle rated at 400 ft lbs. Anyone see a problem with this?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
that it does. Would a comp clutch scorch easier than say a stock clutch?
 

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Maybe, alot of clutchs like that arent meant to be slipped. I have a 6 puck clutch in my Neon SRT4 and its a pain to drive cause its all on or off, no in between.
 

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I don't see a problem. You're probably going from an organic friction material to something non-organic. The SPEC units have stock-like feel to them.

May I ask why you're contemplating this? If you're just adding a blower later it's not necessary. If you're doing the motor later as well the clutch will be right there for you to change at that point in time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I don't see a problem. You're probably going from an organic friction material to something non-organic. The SPEC units have stock-like feel to them.

May I ask why you're contemplating this? If you're just adding a blower later it's not necessary. If you're doing the motor later as well the clutch will be right there for you to change at that point in time.

Its already been done. My car is at the dealer on a rack waiting for a new driveline. Flywheel to half shaft, minus the drive shaft. I bought the car less than 2 months ago and the spec had already been installed by the previous owner. The tech tells me to put an oem clutch in or this is gonna happen again. Just wanted some input on it. Oh and by the way, the spec had zero drivability. I had no basis of comparison when I bought the car. I dont know how the stock clutch feels, but I'm guessing a whole lot nicer to drive around town.
 

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What model spec? P trim? I don't see how the clutch would ruin your tranny...did the tech say the current (spec) clutch is bad?
 

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What model spec? P trim? I don't see how the clutch would ruin your tranny...did the tech say the current (spec) clutch is bad?

sd80pt. the pressure plate is scorched pretty good but the disk has some life left in it. I wish I could tell better by sight whats toast and whats salvagable. I dont have much experience with it. So I'm at the techs mercy. He was eager to show me everything.
 

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Side question: why the heck was a p-trim spec on the car in the first place?
 

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Strange. I know several folks with the Spec and they all seem to love it. Some have swapped the RAm for the Spec particularly because the Spec was easier to drive daily

I wonder if the previous owner really abused it. I have seen guys that were somewhat clueless on the stick go through the stocker in a few thousand miles.
 

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Is it advisable to put a competition clutch rated a 700-1500 ft lbs of torque on a vehicle rated at 400 ft lbs. Anyone see a problem with this?

I have a SPEC clutch in my Car its rated for 900 Lbs While it is a little stiffer ( requires a little more pedal pressure there is no problem in normal driving. The biggest thing I had to get use to was the the OEM clutch grabed near the floor and the Spec grabs at the top. To have a "burndt" fly wheel either the clutch was not adjusted ( was slipping or the driver slipped the clutch a LOT a whole LOT( didn't know how to drive) you don't want to hold a car on a large incling for a long time with the clutch
 

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What rwamser said. We have the same clutch. I've put 5-6K miles on the SS-trim SPEC and driven it HARD...no problems. It did need to be seated when it was first installed and the best way, not joking here, are some serious burnouts. After that, the chatter was down to a minimum. It is a bit stiffer, but not as hard as the P-trim.

Zero problems with it thus far but I've only had it for 9-10 months.

I would think rebuilding the SPEC to an SS-trim would be cheaper and a better option for you, but that's just my two bits... I wouldn't pay full price for the stocker. I gave mine to a friend or I'd offer it to you cheap.

HemiSam
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I picked the spec up from the dealer this am and let my buddy look at it. (25 year mech) He deglazed it and said its fine. lots of life on the disks (90% or so) the plates are all true and no scoring on them. The splines are 100%. Having said that I still want an oem clutch for drivability purposes. So this ones for sale.
 
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