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Discussion Starter #1
I took my Magnuson supercharged Challenger R/T out for an open track today and was only able to get one session in as the car started to overheat. I'm wondering how I can keep this thing cool now. I'm thinking 180° thermostat, SRT dual fan, SRT oil cooler but I'm wondering if that is enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah I have everything buttoned up and hit 250 after a few laps. I'll have to try that along with the SRT stuff the next time. Track Manager was cool enough to tell me I can come back free next time since I couldn't run all day.
 

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I would try putting a HellCat hood on it. Those two added vents in the hood and the ram air of the middle scoop will really help. Also, what coolant are you running? Is the car an occasional track car or track exclusive?
 

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Curious, after how long did it overheat, and what coolant temps were you seeing? Assuming your 5.7L doesn't have a oil cooler/heat exchanger, your oil temps probably get sky high during hot lapping too. A heat exchanger stack (Up where the oil filter threads on) like an SRT 392 will pull high high oil temps down, but put it in the cooling system. It's good if your cooling system is up to the task. I believe Fluidyne sells a 3 core radiator for your car, meant for this kind of stuff. Speedlogix also sells the heat exchanger kit (Mopar parts) and a separate oil cooler.

I'm not sure I'd bother with a thermostat, unless you have a specific need to change the desired operating temp. Having it open sooner won't do much if your cooling system is already maxed out.

Just take a look at how much they had to change with the Hellcat, to get it to stay cool on a road course. 4 intercoolers, a big oil cooler with it's own sump and drain plug, The bigger fascia opening, the hood heat extractors, etc. It's not cheap, but you should be able to make it work with the right parts. Airflow is your friend.
 

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Another thing you could do it a remote mounted oil cooler or smaller auxiliary cooler for the radiator. Mount it in the fender and then somewhere in the wheel well, place vent tubes so air gets forced into the auxiliary cooler while the car accelerates. Also, you could place and electric fan on the back of it that is connected to a switch in the car. That way the car won't overheat at low speeds like under caution flags.
 

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What everybody said! Plus go to the parts store and get two bottles of ICE and pour into your coolant overflow tank. I found it to be good for several degrees cooler, not as much as these other "fixes" but every degree matters and it's cheap. Works for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would try putting a HellCat hood on it. Those two added vents in the hood and the ram air of the middle scoop will really help. Also, what coolant are you running? Is the car an occasional track car or track exclusive?
This car is a cruiser for the most part and won't be a serious race car; I've got it setup to be really street friendly. I would still like to take it to track days a few times of year. I just had the dealer flush out my coolant system in May and put in factory 50/50 HOAT in my radiator. I added it back when I put on the supercharger and heat exchanger (I bought more and filled it with the same so I can change at the same interval, yes, I bled both systems).

I was checking out my build sheet and I think I've got the smallest radiator on my car so I guess STP didn't give you the SRT8 radiator that I thought it did (https://goo.gl/PbBsGQ). What I'm thinking would work would be to buy the Severe Duty II (5170742AA) for $200 and the police oil cooler (5037523AB) and install it myself. It would still be way cheaper than a new painted Hellcat hood. I'm not sure if anyone has gone through the trouble of doing this but if they have I'd love to hear what other parts I'm going to need. All I can find online is the single radiator fan that came with the car, not sure how much the dual fans help but I have no idea if the single fan will fit with the larger radiator.
 

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This car is a cruiser for the most part and won't be a serious race car; I've got it setup to be really street friendly. I would still like to take it to track days a few times of year. I just had the dealer flush out my coolant system in May and put in factory 50/50 HOAT in my radiator. I added it back when I put on the supercharger and heat exchanger (I bought more and filled it with the same so I can change at the same interval, yes, I bled both systems).

I was checking out my build sheet and I think I've got the smallest radiator on my car so I guess STP didn't give you the SRT8 radiator that I thought it did (https://goo.gl/PbBsGQ). What I'm thinking would work would be to buy the Severe Duty II (5170742AA) for $200 and the police oil cooler (5037523AB) and install it myself. It would still be way cheaper than a new painted Hellcat hood. I'm not sure if anyone has gone through the trouble of doing this but if they have I'd love to hear what other parts I'm going to need. All I can find online is the single radiator fan that came with the car, not sure how much the dual fans help but I have no idea if the single fan will fit with the larger radiator.
Indeed that's a more affordable way of getting it done and it's also along the lines of the auxiliary cooler idea I suggested. If you look at the link I've posted below, you'll see the HellCat hood in fiberglass. Weight savings and additional cooling! Expensive but it's 2 mods in one! Would be a great mod if yours ends up needing more airflow.

TruFiber A19 Fiberglass Hood 2008-2016 Challenger
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Curious, after how long did it overheat, and what coolant temps were you seeing? Assuming your 5.7L doesn't have a oil cooler/heat exchanger, your oil temps probably get sky high during hot lapping too. A heat exchanger stack (Up where the oil filter threads on) like an SRT 392 will pull high high oil temps down, but put it in the cooling system. It's good if your cooling system is up to the task. I believe Fluidyne sells a 3 core radiator for your car, meant for this kind of stuff. Speedlogix also sells the heat exchanger kit (Mopar parts) and a separate oil cooler.

I'm not sure I'd bother with a thermostat, unless you have a specific need to change the desired operating temp. Having it open sooner won't do much if your cooling system is already maxed out.

Just take a look at how much they had to change with the Hellcat, to get it to stay cool on a road course. 4 intercoolers, a big oil cooler with it's own sump and drain plug, The bigger fascia opening, the hood heat extractors, etc. It's not cheap, but you should be able to make it work with the right parts. Airflow is your friend.
For what seemed like 5 minutes at around 250, once I took it off in the paddock and opened the hood it cooled down relatively quickly. After that I decided it was best to leave until I can get this cooling system figured out. I'm wondering how much more effective the Fluidyne is against the SRT8 radiator at over 3x the cost.


Outside of the cooling system, the brakes are pretty mediocre. After 5 laps they started to fade and I was being easy on them because I was worried about them from the start. I was thinking about replacing the rotors and pads with the stage one kit from MOPAR P5160048 and DOT4 again, although I'll probably have the dealer do the brake change this time since I cant get the fluid out of the ABS system.
 

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For what seemed like 5 minutes at around 250, once I took it off in the paddock and opened the hood it cooled down relatively quickly. After that I decided it was best to leave until I can get this cooling system figured out. I'm wondering how much more effective the Fluidyne is against the SRT8 radiator at over 3x the cost.


Outside of the cooling system, the brakes are pretty mediocre. After 5 laps they started to fade and I was being easy on them because I was worried about them from the start. I was thinking about replacing the rotors and pads with the stage one kit from MOPAR P5160048 and DOT4 again, although I'll probably have the dealer do the brake change this time since I cant get the fluid out of the ABS system.
Since you're upgrading the brakes, I highly recommend the Wilwood 600 series racing brake fluid. I run it and love it. I haven't ever overheated it on the street which is more than I can say for the factory fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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I have made a few track day visits and found that, above all, my oil temps were the most difficult thing to keep under control. My coolant levels got up there too, but I felt that my oil temps were always through the roof. I would always keep on eye on both temps and would take a cool down lap or two and they would quickly come back down. I highly recommend that while you are on the track make sure you take a cool down lap when you need it. Remember that if you come right back to the paddock without circulating that oil and coolant then it is just sitting in the block sizzling and boiling off. This is why turbo timers and stuff were made so that fluids can circulate while not under load.

Also, some of what the other recommended is good advice. Get a better hood that has functional vents. The SRT hood brings in air and runs it over the motor and out. I can see how the belly pan might act like a tunneling effect and letting the air come in and go out. I haven't heard about removing it during a track day. Bigger radiator will allow the fans to do more work on the fluid. Just remember that a 180 thermostat is only as good as the radiator and convection cooling system that the fluid can go to. If you keep the smaller radiator, eventually the fluid will become heat soaked and the thermostat will just be open all the time. This is probably the issue that you are running into and why you are overheating. It won't matter if you put a 180 stat in there if you have no way to cool the fluid before it goes back into the block. Believe it or not, this is why it matters what platform you start on. The R/T has always been the street car regardless of whether you supercharge or not. The R/T and SRT difference is more than just the powerplant. Cooling systems, brakes, and power plant are all different. If you want to track your car you basically need to turn it into an SRT or better by upgrading all the other items that people tend to ignore. Everybody just wants to make more power, but then don't think about the other stuff. Nobody cares about the other stuff because it isn't nearly as sexy as superchargers and turbos. The devil is always in the details. Even a SRT in stock form needs some modifications to be able to stay out on the track and run hard for a while.

Go with a bigger radiator and fans to help with cooling. Make sure you are always looking at your oil temps and get a remote oil cooler too. The SRT has intakes in the lower valance that ports air to the front brakes to cool them off during use. This helps tremendously with fade. Try and see if you can get some knuckles, spindles, and rotors from an SRT. Put some Brembos on that thing and you won't have too many problems with brake fade. When I was out running the track, the one thing I never had a problem with was brake fade. This 15.5 inch Brembos keep things in check. The pads dust a lot, but that is because they bite and dissipate heat. Slotted rotors help, too.

I don't mean to come off as preachy or anything. There are so many fast road course cars that are pushing way less than what your car was making stock and still putting up great times. For cars to do well on the track, handling is where it matters. That and keeping things cool. Hell, go ask the GT350 (non-R) guys how long they can stay on the track before they go into limp mode. Last year we had a couple show up and they were out there maybe 10 minutes before they overheated and had to limp back to the paddock. Heat management is a big thing and from my experience that has slowed people down more than anything else. Once that motor gets hot it will start to pull timing and there goes all that supercharged power. Good luck out there! Keep us updated on your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I found the Severe Duty II two-row MOPAR unit (5170742AA) for about $200. The FLUIDYNE is about $600 and the Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator was just released and is the same cost. Someone on LX forums claimed the FLUIDYNE only lowered their temps by about 5°F over the SDII. I'm not sure how I would replace the stock fan with dual fans though as the wiring is different and electrical wiring isn't something I've gotten into outside of hooking up the fuel pump and tapping the intercooler pump which were both super easy. The parts for the SRT8 oil cooler are around $300. Since this car is in Michigan and going to be mainly driven on the street I'm wondering what would be appropriate for my car vs getting the lowest temperatures possible because with normal driving it doesn't overheat. Do you guys think if I use the SDII, stock single fan (has a bigger motor than the 2010s) and SRT8 oil cooler that it would be enough to keep my water temps down 40° from where I am at now for 10-15 minutes on the track? I'd love to hear everyone's opinion
 

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I found the Severe Duty II two-row MOPAR unit (5170742AA) for about $200. The FLUIDYNE is about $600 and the Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator was just released and is the same cost. Someone on LX forums claimed the FLUIDYNE only lowered their temps by about 5°F over the SDII. I'm not sure how I would replace the stock fan with dual fans though as the wiring is different and electrical wiring isn't something I've gotten into outside of hooking up the fuel pump and tapping the intercooler pump which were both super easy. The parts for the SRT8 oil cooler are around $300. Since this car is in Michigan and going to be mainly driven on the street I'm wondering what would be appropriate for my car vs getting the lowest temperatures possible because with normal driving it doesn't overheat. Do you guys think if I use the SDII, stock single fan (has a bigger motor than the 2010s) and SRT8 oil cooler that it would be enough to keep my water temps down 40° from where I am at now for 10-15 minutes on the track? I'd love to hear everyone's opinion
I think that radiator and oil cooler will probably help out. I would also keep a lookout for an SRT hood or some way to make the one you have more functional. You just gotta get more air into the engine bay and across that radiator while you are moving.
 

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Woah! I didn't know our cars could go around a road course! That gives my 2009 R/T hope. I bought a Challenger because it can seat my whole family but have always wanted a Corvette to go to the road course tracks.

How heavily modded is your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think that radiator and oil cooler will probably help out. I would also keep a lookout for an SRT hood or some way to make the one you have more functional. You just gotta get more air into the engine bay and across that radiator while you are moving.
Next time I head out to the track I'll remove the lower shroud. Years ago I added the SRT air inlets on the hood but I don't think they move much air. My car looks stock besides the wheels so if I can do it, I'd like to leave the hood stock to keep it basically a sleeper.
 

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we found most performance aftermarket radiators do not fit well, we are using a fluidyne that we modified
Luke
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I'm going to order the new Mishimoto radiator tomorrow from Jegs. It is supposed to be a direct fit and use the R/T hoses. I was thinking of adding an oil cooler at the same time since I will have the front end off. Has anyone used the Hellcat oil cooler on an RT? It looks like it fits into the passenger side of the bumper but I'm wondering if the electric steering is going to interfere with it. It would be nice to have an oil cooler out of the way of the heat exchanger and radiator.
 
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