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Discussion Starter #1
I had one day weeks ago where I overheated, and sure I would kick the accelerator occasionally, but nothing too rowdy. It seemed like a one time thing, and didn't happen for weeks, and drove the exact same way. Yesterday, suddenly its overheating and kept it up. I had to drive a short distance, let it cool down, drive a short distance, let it cool down, etc. to get get home.

I would stop when it suddenly jumped to 270 degrees. I would smell coolant, but there is NO sign of leaks. During driving it would creep up, the inexplicably start dropping, then rise again. I even got the email from my app telling me the engine light was on. I haven't started it today yet. Any input, thoughts, suggestions? I am planning on calling my Procharger certified installer tomorrow as well.
 

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Not sure is you have the HO or Stage II, but coolant tank that comes with the HO kit is notorious for leaks. I would start with a coolant pressure check, AutoZone and Advanced Auto usually have pressure tester loaner systems. I would also bleed the system to ensure there's no air.
 

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It sounds like air in your cooling system, I would bleed it.
 
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Was a lower temp thermostat installed? If so, I am with turner56 and say you should bleed the system. I would also make sure that (1) the thermostat was installed properly (bypass bleed hole should be at 12 o'clock) and (2) make sure the thermostat is working properly. There are a few here that reported faulty thermostats, particularly the 180F aftermarket ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Was a lower temp thermostat installed? If so, I am with turner56 and say you should bleed the system. I would also make sure that (1) the thermostat was installed properly (bypass bleed hole should be at 12 o'clock) and (2) make sure the thermostat is working properly. There are a few here that reported faulty thermostats, particularly the 180F aftermarket ones.
Even though I am wanting to get a 180* thermostat, I haven't yet. I am hoping its an air thing. It had not been overheating AT ALL, except for the one anomaly day weeks ago. The running great, then suddenly the other day (I admit I had been making a couple of hard driving sprints, but this had never been happened like this....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Was a lower temp thermostat installed? If so, I am with turner56 and say you should bleed the system. I would also make sure that (1) the thermostat was installed properly (bypass bleed hole should be at 12 o'clock) and (2) make sure the thermostat is working properly. There are a few here that reported faulty thermostats, particularly the 180F aftermarket ones.
It sounds like air in your cooling system, I would bleed it.
Is there a good link or vid that could guide me on bleeding it?
 

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Well, the service manual uses a coolant air evacuation procedure that uses special tooling. What I have done, is to crack open the allen plug from the front of the water pump, and filled the coolant reservoir until it started to bleed out (make sure the car is level or a least the front end sits higher than the rear). I then tighten the allen plug and fill the reservoir the rest of the way. Have done it this way on my challenger twice and my wifes 5.7 GC and never had an issue.
 

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I had to replace my radiator on my 2015 SRT 392 shortly after I bought it, I pulled the stock thermostat out and drilled two holes in and placed them at the 12 o'clock position, before I did that I filled the block and radiator up from the thermostat housing til coolant ran out at the top of the radiator ( hose was still off), then put the thermostat back in and top hose on. With the reservoir full, I started up the car with the cap off and let the coolant circulate, as the coolant level dropped I added coolant as needed.

The holes in the thermostat allow coolant to flow without the engine having to wait for the thermostat to open and it helps to bleed the air out. I let the car run this way for about 20 minutes to circulate the coolant and allow the thermostat to cycle til I saw no more air bubbles in the reservoir. Once some time went by and no longer saw air bubbles in the reservoir I put the cap on it so the system could pressurize. I checked for leaks, found nothing, took it for a drive. temp stayed between 199 and 206. brought it home. checked the level and it was perfectly at the full mark.

The next day I checked the coolant level it was about 1/2" below the full mark. I left it alone, just wanted to have a mental note where the level was at cold, took the car out and drove this pizz out of it, ran some very hard passes and all has been well since then. level stayed the same cold each time I have checked it. Engine has been running 199-206 or so.

That's what I did with mine, thought I would share.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I had to replace my radiator on my 2015 SRT 392 shortly after I bought it, I pulled the stock thermostat out and drilled two holes in and placed them at the 12 o'clock position, before I did that I filled the block and radiator up from the thermostat housing til coolant ran out at the top of the radiator ( hose was still off), then put the thermostat back in and top hose on. With the reservoir full, I started up the car with the cap off and let the coolant circulate, as the coolant level dropped I added coolant as needed.

The holes in the thermostat allow coolant to flow without the engine having to wait for the thermostat to open and it helps to bleed the air out. I let the car run this way for about 20 minutes to circulate the coolant and allow the thermostat to cycle til I saw no more air bubbles in the reservoir. Once some time went by and no longer saw air bubbles in the reservoir I put the cap on it so the system could pressurize. I checked for leaks, found nothing, took it for a drive. temp stayed between 199 and 206. brought it home. checked the level and it was perfectly at the full mark.

The next day I checked the coolant level it was about 1/2" below the full mark. I left it alone, just wanted to have a mental note where the level was at cold, took the car out and drove this pizz out of it, ran some very hard passes and all has been well since then. level stayed the same cold each time I have checked it. Engine has been running 199-206 or so.

That's what I did with mine, thought I would share.
So tonight was the first time I could actually check out the car cooled off.......I smell coolant, BUT I find absolutely NO sign of a leak, and have had no sign of a leak at any time. One the ground, in the engine bay, or anywhere....BUT HOLY CRAP, I checked the pro-charger reservoir and it was EMPTY. I believe it should be about halfway when cold? So seriously, WTH???? I won't lie, I never checked it after I had it installed, and I smelled coolant once I ran it right after install, but it faded...I assumed they had spilled some during install and it was just burning off. The one overheating event took place a few weeks after running it, then was fine for a few more weeks and had this one last event. Ugh
 

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So tonight was the first time I could actually check out the car cooled off.......I smell coolant, BUT I find absolutely NO sign of a leak, and have had no sign of a leak at any time. One the ground, in the engine bay, or anywhere....BUT HOLY CRAP, I checked the pro-charger reservoir and it was EMPTY. I believe it should be about halfway when cold? So seriously, WTH???? I won't lie, I never checked it after I had it installed, and I smelled coolant once I ran it right after install, but it faded...I assumed they had spilled some during install and it was just burning off. The one overheating event took place a few weeks after running it, then was fine for a few more weeks and had this one last event. Ugh
When I installed my magnuson SC, it took forever to bleed the intercooler system. Once it finally was bleed completely the intake temps simmered down. BTW does your reservoir have the metal cap? Mine did and apparently dodge switched to a plastic version. When I had the metal version I would hear what sounded like a roadrunner beep coming from under the hood while the car cooled down in the garage. Since I replaced it with the plastic one the noise went away.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/7996642-post10.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When I installed my magnuson SC, it took forever to bleed the intercooler system. Once it finally was bleed completely the intake temps simmered down. BTW does your reservoir have the metal cap? Mine did and apparently dodge switched to a plastic version. When I had the metal version I would hear what sounded like a roadrunner beep coming from under the hood while the car cooled down in the garage. Since I replaced it with the plastic one the noise went away.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/7996642-post10.html
Yeah mines got a metal cap and the reservoir is metal as well. What I don't get is how there is no sign whatsoever of a leak, but the reservoir is completely empty! And I'll admit I never checked it until this overheating issue.
 

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We just had a Procharger installed on a 2010 5.7 Hemi and our reservoir is bone dry, yet we get burping from the hose. What is the best way to fix this problem? The tech who installed said the pressure will build and burp. So now what?
 

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I thought prochargers use and air to air intercooler? Are you saying your engine coolant reservoir is bone dry?
Yes. It looks and feels like it has never had a drop of liquid in it. Procharger tells me that it could be due to not having a proper vacuum bleed when installed. And adding enough coolant will fix the issue. They also said my engine design has the open vent hose by design and should not be fed back into the reservoir
 
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