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2015 challenger rt plus
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I looking for help as I am completely lost. I have a 2015 challenger rt plus and a couple weeks ago I installed a nos kit. I never used the nos but I got a check engine light after I installed the kit for p0118 my coolant temperature sensor and the electronic throttle control light came on as well. I replaced the sensor but it still didn’t work. I than replaced the thermostat and it still didn’t work. I than noticed that I was getting 0v to my senor from the connection harness for the sensor. I can’t find the pin on the pcm to test so I don’t know where the problem is. I decided to flush the whole coolant system as well because I was told that would help once I figure out where my power problem is. After the flush, I got a code for p0198 for oil sensor, the same problem as my coolant sensor. I have to admit that I believe coolant spilled on the oil sensor so could that effect it and maybe that’s what happened to the coolant one as well? I have no idea what to do and have spent 3 days all day trying to figure it out. Any help is greatly appreciated
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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Which NOS kit did you use?
 

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2015 challenger rt plus
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not
Which NOS kit did you use?
nitrous outlet plate kit. Also have the window switch installed and installed a fuel pressure gauge, AFR gauge and notorious pressure gauge. I know I had to mess with the grounding for all those.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I am not familiar with how the nitrous kit is installed, but I imagine it is integrated into the engine’s existing controls in such a way so as to prevent applying the nitrous before the engine is fully up to operating temperature.

Taking that further, monitoring the engine coolant temp and oil temp would be a really good way to tell when the engine is ready for the spray. So I am wondering if this nitrous kit you have is tapping into the wiring harness for those two sensors, especially since the two codes you list deal with voltage abnormalities on the same two sensors’ circuits.

If it does tap the wires for those two sensors, I would remove those taps and see if that clears the codes. If it does, find a better way to connect to the sensors’ wires.
 

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Nuke is leaning the right direction but giving the n2o kit manufacturers way too much credit for making a safe system.

Most (if not all) of the instructions for kits and controllers are available for download as a .pdf for the curious.

Depending on what window switch controller you chose and if you tied into the wiring for the WOT signal or RPM pickup, that could be where your problem is. Those are normally the only two inputs for common controllers. Are we at WOT and are we in the RPM window. Some also use a safety signal from a wideband.

The RPM signal normally ties into the coil pack wiring which is part of the common "hot" signal to many parts of the harness. If there is a problem here, it could be causing all kinds of sensor issues.
 
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2015 challenger rt plus
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nuke is leaning the right direction but giving the n2o kit manufacturers way too much credit for making a safe system.

Most (if not all) of the instructions for kits and controllers are available for download as a .pdf for the curious.

Depending on what window switch controller you chose and if you tied into the wiring for the WOT signal or RPM pickup, that could be where your problem is. Those are normally the only two inputs for common controllers. Are we at WOT and are we in the RPM window. Some also use a safety signal from a wideband.

The RPM signal normally ties into the coil pack wiring which is part of the common "hot" signal to many parts of the harness. If there is a problem here, it could be causing all kinds of sensor issues.
I did tap into a wire to throttle body for tps and #3 coil for the rpm. I geuss I just don’t understand how that would of affect the coolant sensor. The only other common point for the sensors and nitrous/ gauges would be the ground. I used the same bolt that the pcm is grounded to for my kit. I cleaned it and took the kits wires off but still had the codes. Could have the sensors been shortened to the ground or ruined the pcm?

I am not familiar with how the nitrous kit is installed, but I imagine it is integrated into the engine’s existing controls in such a way so as to prevent applying the nitrous before the engine is fully up to operating temperature.

Taking that further, monitoring the engine coolant temp and oil temp would be a really good way to tell when the engine is ready for the spray. So I am wondering if this nitrous kit you have is tapping into the wiring harness for those two sensors, especially since the two codes you list deal with voltage abnormalities on the same two sensors’ circuits.

If it does tap the wires for those two sensors, I would remove those taps and see if that clears the codes. If it does, find a better way to connect to the sensors’ wires.
I will have to try it. I taped in to the tps wire to throttle body and a rpm wire for the window switch. I didn’t think that would have affected sensors but perhaps I’m wrong. I used the pcm ground bolt for the kit and window switch as well so maybe the ground is being affected somehow?
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I did tap into a wire to throttle body for tps and #3 coil for the rpm. I geuss I just don’t understand how that would of affect the coolant sensor. The only other common point for the sensors and nitrous/ gauges would be the ground. I used the same bolt that the pcm is grounded to for my kit. I cleaned it and took the kits wires off but still had the codes. Could have the sensors been shortened to the ground or ruined the pcm?
unplug the sensor and check the harness wires for 5v and ground. If neither is out of whack, swap the oil temp and the engine coolant sensor. Plug back in and see if code follows.
 

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2015 challenger rt plus
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
unplug the sensor and check the harness wires for 5v and ground. If neither is out of whack, swap the oil temp and the engine coolant sensor. Plug back in and see if code follows.
I know I’m getting 0v to my coolant sensor and now my air intake sensor is stuck at -40F. I’ve been trying to find the 5v wire pin but I don’t have a pin out or wiring diagram for the pcm
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I know I’m getting 0v to my coolant sensor and now my air intake sensor is stuck at -40F. I’ve been trying to find the 5v wire pin but I don’t have a pin out or wiring diagram for the pcm

go to first pinned thread (chiltons manual access)

See post #5 for pin out diagram link

See post #7 (I think…not #1, I do remember that) for service manual link that will have wiring diagrams available
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

go to first pinned thread (chiltons manual access)

See post #5 for pin out diagram link

See post #7 (I think…not #1, I do remember that) for service manual link that will have wiring diagrams available
Thank you. I’ve been looking for that. Mopar charges $100 for wiring diagrams. Helps a lot
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Since you removed and replaced the PCM ground connection, it is worth verifying that the PCM still has a good ground.
If you have a multimeter, attach one meter lead to the PCM ground terminal and the other to a chassis ground (the one by strut cover that is used for jump starts comes to mind).

If the meter shows OL, there is an open circuit between the PCM and ground that will need to be located and repaired.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Also, your original post listed a DTC for the oil temperature sensor, but the 5.7L doesn’t get an oil cooler unless it’s part of a special package (no special Challengers?).

Maybe that rule was changed in 2015 and all 5.7L engines got oil coolers going forward. If so, I’ll have to make a mental note my knowledge on this topic is limited to 2014 and below. But if yours does not have an oil cooler, the fact it is throwing a DTC for an oil temp sensor (which mounts in the oil cooler) that doesn’t exist is surely significant in this diagnosis effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Since you removed and replaced the PCM ground connection, it is worth verifying that the PCM still has a good ground.
If you have a multimeter, attach one meter lead to the PCM ground terminal and the other to a chassis ground (the one by strut cover that is used for jump starts comes to mind).

If the meter shows OL, there is an open circuit between the PCM and ground that will need to be located and repaired.
I do have one. What would be a good a good reading. I’m still learning all this
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I do have one. What would be a good a good reading. I’m still learning all this
You are just making sure there is not an open, so any ohm value is fine. You just don’t want it to show OL, that’s the main point of the test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You are just making sure there is not an open, so any ohm value is fine. You just don’t want it to show OL, that’s the main point of the test.
Ok. I apperciate it I’ve been fighting with it for over a week and Ik it’s prob something simple
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Ok. I apperciate it I’ve been fighting with it for over a week and Ik it’s prob something simple
Make sure the battery voltage is 12.6v or above when doing these tests and starting/stopping the engine.

Inconsistent or low voltage will manifest itself in strange and seemingly unrelated ways on these cars, and it’s one of the easiest things to avoid if a float/trickle charger is around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Make sure the battery voltage is 12.6v or above when doing these tests and starting/stopping the engine.

Inconsistent or low voltage will manifest itself in strange and seemingly unrelated ways on these cars, and it’s one of the easiest things to avoid if a float/trickle charger is around.
I believe mine last time I checked was 12.3v or around there. I it’s good and bad how these new car’s computers know everything
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I believe mine last time I checked was 12.3v or around there. I it’s good and bad how these new car’s computers know everything
12.3v is technically undercharged. While it is probably enough for testing purposes, why chance it’s if you have access to a Charger of some kind
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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I did tap into a wire to throttle body for tps and #3 coil for the rpm. I geuss I just don’t understand how that would of affect the coolant sensor. The only other common point for the sensors and nitrous/ gauges would be the ground. I used the same bolt that the pcm is grounded to for my kit. I cleaned it and took the kits wires off but still had the codes. Could have the sensors been shortened to the ground or ruined the pcm?
The TPS gets input from the engine coolant sensor (within the PCM) It has to know what to do based on engine temps. It could be flaking out based on how you have the TB tapped. It doesn't know if it's an issue with the TPS or the coolant sensor.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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The TPS gets input from the engine coolant sensor (within the PCM) It has to know what to do based on engine temps. It could be flaking out based on how you have the TB tapped. It doesn't know if it's an issue with the TPS or the coolant sensor.
Granted I have flown as many jet airliners as I’ve designed NOS systems (zero!), but IMHO relying on taps of other sensor wiring to facilitate the NOS operation seems ludicrous.

I mean, we’re dealing with a substance that not only has the potential to make you laugh your ass off when inhaled, but arguably more importantly has the potential to burn your car to the ground while you’re sitting in it.

Why wouldnt it utilize something more intricate than a wire piercing terminal connector that, as anyone who’s done their own stereo installs knows, only successfully taps the wire about 50% of the time??
 
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