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At some point in the next few weeks, I do want to do a paint correction on my new 18 White Knuckle SPS.

My concern is with the factory stripes. What method should I use?

• Ignore stripes and just go thru the correction process

• Tape off factory stripes

•*Tape off factory stripes and correct by hand when near

•*Don't even think about coming near the factory stripes

I know the ideal would be to have the factory stripes removed and then reapply but I would prefer not to go down this path but I don't want to have the same issue as when I waxed my 15 B5 and there is still remnants of Wax on a couple of black plastic pieces that it just won't come out 100%.
 

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I would for sure tape them off. I'd try mechanically working up to them in a small area then decide if by hand is better at that point. I regularly wax with a spray liquid and works fine on stripes too. Made the mistake of using paste only once :)
 

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the other thing that i've found as have lots of black striping hood, top & trunk is to avoid whatever you do in sunlight. sure leaves lots of streaking hard to correct.
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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At some point in the next few weeks, I do want to do a paint correction on my new 18 White Knuckle SPS.

My concern is with the factory stripes. What method should I use?

• Ignore stripes and just go thru the correction process

• Tape off factory stripes

•*Tape off factory stripes and correct by hand when near

•*Don't even think about coming near the factory stripes

I know the ideal would be to have the factory stripes removed and then reapply but I would prefer not to go down this path but I don't want to have the same issue as when I waxed my 15 B5 and there is still remnants of Wax on a couple of black plastic pieces that it just won't come out 100%.
What are you using to do the paint correction? I am assuming something mechanical like a polisher or buffer. If so, which type?

DA polisher - You don’t have to tape them off as long as you don’t go crazy with the polisher when near the edges.

Rotary polisher - Tape them off, the rotary’s ability to burnish shouldnt be taken lightly.

Orbital buffer - Forget about the stripes, you’re gonna have your hands full just trying to deswirl the clear coat with underpowered equipment like that. Consider stepping up to the DA polisher to make life easier.

Having said all that, I have to ask: are you sure it needs a full correction?

If it’s an ‘18, surely the clear coat isn’t in bad shape already, but I suppose anything’s possible depending upon how it was treated before you got it...
 

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What are you using to do the paint correction? I am assuming something mechanical like a polisher or buffer. If so, which type?

DA polisher - You don’t have to tape them off as long as you don’t go crazy with the polisher when near the edges.

Rotary polisher - Tape them off, the rotary’s ability to burnish shouldnt be taken lightly.

Orbital buffer - Forget about the stripes, you’re gonna have your hands full just trying to deswirl the clear coat with underpowered equipment like that. Consider stepping up to the DA polisher to make life easier.

Having said all that, I have to ask: are you sure it needs a full correction?

If it’s an ‘18, surely the clear coat isn’t in bad shape already, but I suppose anything’s possible depending upon how it was treated before you got it...
Good points Nuke; the "how" is an important factor to consider.

OP: I have custom stripes and fender badges; the fender badges are hypocycloids ending in very narrow tips. I too was concerned over their longevity when doing paint correction (don't waste your time trying to do it by hand, the swirls will outlast your shoulders and elbows).

You should be fine with factory stripes using a DA if you, as Nuke suggests, are careful around the stripe edges. I went one step further however and used a "Sealit Pen" to further protect the edges of my stripes. You can find it on eBay or Amazon. They work great, and the one application I did back in 2014 is still holding strong despite numerous passes with a wax applicator or DA.

 
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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Good points Nuke; the "how" is an important factor to consider.

OP: I have custom stripes and fender badges; the fender badges are hypocycloids ending in very narrow tips. I too was concerned over their longevity when doing paint correction (don't waste your time trying to do it by hand, the swirls will outlast your shoulders and elbows).

You should be fine with factory stripes using a DA if you, as Nuke suggests, are careful around the stripe edges. I went one step further however and used a "Sealit Pen" to further protect the edges of my stripes. You can find it on eBay or Amazon. They work great, and the one application I did back in 2014 is still holding strong despite numerous passes with a wax applicator or DA.

I'm glad you posted this, as I think I am going to have to get me one of those Seal-It-Pens!

One of the edges of a piece of the redline stripe which covers the edges of my factory stripes has started to come loose ever so slightly (I'm assuming some careless prep after a recent removal and reinstall at body shop),

attachment.jpg

and I have been wondering what I could use to fix that little edge that is starting to pull away. I do believe that Seal-It-Pen is just the ticket!!

Many thanks! :thumbsup:
 
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