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Discussion Starter #1
After 2 years of handwashing the Deep Water Blue Pearl has picked up Quite a few very fine swirls. I have tried Zaino 5 Swirl remover and Maguires and they do not work.
Is there anything besides wet sand and buffer to remove fine swirls?
 

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After 2 years of handwashing the Deep Water Blue Pearl has picked up Quite a few very fine swirls. I have tried Zaino 5 Swirl remover and Maguires and they do not work.
Is there anything besides wet sand and buffer to remove fine swirls?
What Meguiar's products did you use and did you use it by hand. If it has fine swirls, there is no need for wetsanding. Meguiar's sells Ultimate Compound and SwirlX OTC and you can get other polishes either online or at a PBE (paint body supply place).

The most efficient is using a dual action polisher like the Porter Cable 7424XP, some foam polishing pads, and a polish.
 

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Use an orbital polisher and the proper compounds and they'll come right out.

I use a Porter Cable random orbital and Griot's Product on mine. More info on my website.

 

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i quit buying dark colors because of the swirls...

my Yellow truck rarely looked dirty and barely had swirls after 40k miles

i chose the White ie392 mostly because of those 2 issues...the DWB will show swirls 2-3x more

you can take it in to a body shop to have the swirls buffed out every other year....im sure its under $1k
 

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Discussion Starter #6
After 2 years of handwashing the Deep Water Blue Pearl has picked up Quite a few very fine swirls. I have tried Zaino 5 Swirl remover and Maguires and they do not work.
Is there anything besides wet sand and buffer to remove fine swirls?
Watch this guys videos, he is one of ther best.
YouTube - How Safe is the PC 7424XP - Part 1
search "junkman2000" on youtube
Yeah, I watched him take that scratch off the back of the Vette with wet sandpaper and various PC Cable pads and polish 2 or 3 years ago.
So impressed I bought the same PC and 5 or 6 different pads.

Scared to use it, so everything sits in the box.

OK, what color pad is the finest and what grit polish should
I use for swirls?
I am getting brave now.
 

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After 2 years of handwashing the Deep Water Blue Pearl has picked up Quite a few very fine swirls. I have tried Zaino 5 Swirl remover and Maguires and they do not work.
Is there anything besides wet sand and buffer to remove fine swirls?
Just a note…. Z-5 has no corrective ability whatsoever. It is a sealant with some filling ability that actually does a relatively good job of hiding some fine scratches. However, as the product wears off, those imperfections will return.


Also, it’s just my opinion but there are very few instances that would even suggest or even find it necessary to wetsand. A good tip to remember is to use the least aggressive method necessary to get the job done. In other words, don’t use a compound and follow up with a lighter cut polish if the less abrasive polish is enough to get the result you are looking for.

The same holds true for RIDS (random isolated deep scratches). How aggressive you get will depend on the outcome you’re trying to achieve but you should also consider the consequences when striving for perfection. …..i.e. the removal of paint (perhaps more than necessary). Sometimes it is better to live with an overall great result using a less aggressive alternative rather than chasing RIDS with harsher solutions.

Yeah, I watched him take that scratch off the back of the Vette with wet sandpaper and various PC Cable pads and polish 2 or 3 years ago.
So impressed I bought the same PC and 5 or 6 different pads.

Scared to use it, so everything sits in the box.

OK, what color pad is the finest and what grit polish should
I use for swirls?
I am getting brave now.
….don’t be afraid of it. Given the right product and pad choices, a DA like your PC is still a generally safe tool with virtually no chance of “strike through/burning” and relatively gentle corrective action partly due to it’s “clutch-like” rotation (only the orbit is forced). ….IMO/IME even with a more powerful tool like my Flex 3401VRG (which has a direct drive rotation/orbit) it is still generally safe and easy to master for most folks.


What pads and products do you have now? To be quite honest, a lot can be accomplished using the OTC polishes Bunky mentioned earlier (Ultimate Compound and Swirl-X). UC, Scratch-X 2.0 and Swirl-X are all based off of the same SMAT (super micro abrasive technology) formulation as their very popular M105 and M205 professional polishes. In fact, I have used and prefer UC over M105 for some applications. The OTC line is effective by hand or machine (DA, not rotary). UC will actually finish off surprisingly well with a DA although it will leave a degree of micro-marring when applied by hand.

One more note…. I typically like to stress the importance of folks doing a “test panel” or a “test section” when correcting. Pick a 1’ – 2’ sq area (some like to use painters tape) and use this space to test your products. The idea is to find the right combination of products/tools/techniques that will provide the result you are looking for. Once you have that dialed in, then move on to the rest of the car.
 

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A good tip to remember is to use the least aggressive method necessary to get the job done.
...
….don’t be afraid of it. Given the right product and pad choices, a DA like your PC is still a generally safe tool with virtually no chance of “strike through/burning” and relatively gentle corrective action partly due to it’s “clutch-like” rotation (only the orbit is forced). ….

One more note…. I typically like to stress the importance of folks doing a “test panel” or a “test section” when correcting. Pick a 1’ – 2’ sq area
:werd: !!!! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Use an orbital polisher and the proper compounds and they'll come right out.

I use a Porter Cable random orbital and Griot's Product on mine. More info on my website.


I am following Speedy's plan.
have the PC 7424, 1/2 lb clay bar.
Need to buy the Griot 6" pad holder, clay pads, red pad and paint sealant.

Is that all I need Speedy?
 

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I am following Speedy's plan.
have the PC 7424, 1/2 lb clay bar.
Need to buy the Griot 6" pad holder, clay pads, red pad and paint sealant.

Is that all I need Speedy?

I use the same as Speedy (have been for years)but, I have the Griots badged one. You can clay by hand so, you will not need to buy the clay pad. You will need to buy Speed Shine to use as a lubricant for the bar. You'll need Machine Polish (#3 is the most used, #1 is the most abrasive) or you can buy their "One-Step Sealant" which has #3 Machine Polish and Paint Sealant in one bottle. They now make "Paint Glaze" which fills in small scratches and swirls. Orange pads are for polish/glaze, Red pads are for sealant. You'll need micro fiber towels, as well.

They used to have a video on their website showing Richard Griot polishing a Ferrari or Porsche (cant remember) with the random orbital. He really lays down hard on the thing to show you that it will not blow through your clear coat/paint. They are safe and easy to use. Just take your time.
 

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What ct71rr said.

I'd use the one step to save time and effort. Should do a fine job on light swirls and you'll get a nice sealant on that that'll last about a year if you garage the car.
 

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Just my 2 cents, before using abrasives, polishes and sealants to remove fine lines and swirls, you need to use a Clay Bar to remove the contaminants that caused the swirls from the clear coat.

If you you don't you might cause even more swirls when using an orbital buffer.
 

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While claying should be done before any polishing process, the contaminants themselves are not necessarily the cause of the problem at hand, though they certainly do cause other issues.
 

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What ct71rr said.

I'd use the one step to save time and effort. Should do a fine job on light swirls and you'll get a nice sealant on that that'll last about a year if you garage the car.
Yup, and I also use their "Spray-on Wax" after each wash. It's easy to use; just spray it on after the final rinse (car still wet) and wipe off (dry) with a microfiber towel.:thumbsup:
 

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I have tried a lot of the clear coat polishes and rubs over the years but the best out there is the 3M Finese it. It works great either hand rubbing or with a buff wheel. It's been widely used to rubout wetsanded new finishes but works great for removing fine scatches and blemishes. I have used it on my cars, motorcycle and it even works great on my boat gel coat to remove oxidation and bring the color out. You can find it at the automotive paint stores.
 

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Steve: I have a 09 DWB RT and had swirls/micro scratchs on my car at the end of its first season. I got them out doing the following:
1) Washed the car
2) Clay bar'd the car
Used a orbital buffer to do the following
3) Applied/Wiped off Scratch X
4) Applied/Wiped off Ultimate Compound
5) Applied/Wiped off Speed Glaze(this is a light polisher for dark cars)
6) Applied/Wiped off wax.

Also I find the OTC products to be very passive (as opposed to aggressive) - you need to be carefull, but they are relatively safe.
She was smooth and clear as a mirror after doing this. Unfortunately I am looking at the same problem again this year. The DWB is a beautifull color, but seems to pick up micro scratches very easily.
 

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I have tried a lot of the clear coat polishes and rubs over the years but the best out there is the 3M Finese it. It works great either hand rubbing or with a buff wheel. It's been widely used to rubout wetsanded new finishes but works great for removing fine scatches and blemishes. I have used it on my cars, motorcycle and it even works great on my boat gel coat to remove oxidation and bring the color out. You can find it at the automotive paint stores.
....I have used 3M products including ones from the Finesse-It and Perfect-It line. In fact, I still have several bottles in my detailing cabinets. I always thought the Finesse-It products were decent performers but having tried several polishes/compounds myself over the years (and knowing the multitude of products/technologies on the market today), I would be hesitant to call any one of them "the best" (IMO/IME).

Personally, my "go to" favorites are Meguiars M105, UC and M205. ....although I still like some of my other polishes (like Optimum Polish v1/v2 and Optimum Finish) depending on the scenario. M205 has to be one of the most flexible products I have used thus far and one of the few I found that really lived up to the hype. I haven't really touched my 3M polishes in years to be honest.
 

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3) Applied/Wiped off Scratch X
4) Applied/Wiped off Ultimate Compound
....hi Tommy. You may have just wrote the order down wrong on these two but if using UC and Scratch-X, UC should come first (since it has more cut).
 

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I am following Speedy's plan.
have the PC 7424, 1/2 lb clay bar.
Need to buy the Griot 6" pad holder, clay pads, red pad and paint sealant.

Is that all I need Speedy?
What polishes are you planning on using?

I would suggest just doing claying by hand. Mothers clay kit is perfect.

For polishes, I would I suggest using Meguiars M205 or SwirlX and a Lake Country white or black polishing pad with your pc xp. These polishes are available locally, M205 is very DA friendly since it is non-diminishing since it is not that sensitive to work time.

You can then top with your favorite sealant.
 

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I have been using my Griots orbital kit I got for christmas. Its a pretty good range of product.
 
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