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Discussion Starter #1
Where is the PCV valve? I see two possible locations:

Pic with YELLOW ARROW is the passenger side of the engine - hose appears to run from back of engine by valve cover to back of intake/throttle body.

Pic with RED ARROW is the driver side of engine - hose appears to rub from back of engine by valve cover to intake at air cleaner.

Which is it? Isn't the PCV hose what the Catch Can attaches to? Has anyone changed it - what was involved? I didn't ask my local dealership, but on their service website, they list mileage intervals and general service needed: at 40,000 they suggest INSPECT PCV VALVE and at 60,000 miles the site states REPLACE PCV VALVE. I know the dealership service departments often like to "move forward"scheduled maintenance times to drum up business, but I checked my manual and for the 3.6 and 5.7 it shows no inspection of the PCV, but states to replace it at 90,000 miles. What is your opinion?

DS.jpg
PS.jpg
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Pentastar CCV Info

Where is the PCV valve? I see two possible locations:

Pic with YELLOW ARROW is the passenger side of the engine - hose appears to run from back of engine by valve cover to back of intake/throttle body.
--->the hose coming away from back of engine at valve cover and going into intake plenum behind throttle body is the Ventilation line, and it carries blow-by gases exiting the engine via the PCV valve. PCV valve is attached to valve cover with 3 screws.

Pic with RED ARROW is the driver side of engine - hose appears to rub from back of engine by valve cover to intake at air cleaner.
--->the hose coming away from backside of engine on driver's side and going into air box above air filter element is the Makeup line, and it brings fresh air into the engine to fill vacuum left by gases being exhausted via PCV valve.

Which is it? Isn't the PCV hose what the Catch Can attaches to? Has anyone changed it - what was involved? I didn't ask my local dealership, but on their service website, they list mileage intervals and general service needed: at 40,000 they suggest INSPECT PCV VALVE and at 60,000 miles the site states REPLACE PCV VALVE. I know the dealership service departments often like to "move forward"scheduled maintenance times to drum up business, but I checked my manual and for the 3.6 and 5.7 it shows no inspection of the PCV, but states to replace it at 90,000 miles. What is your opinion?
Yes, most Catch Can installations will be spliced into the Ventilation line between PCV valve and intake plenum. (Catch Cans can be placed on the Makeup line as well, but when you hear somebody reference a Catch Can installation, they're likely talking about the PCV one).

The 90K mile service life for the PCV valve listed in your manual is fine. If it goes out sooner, it will need to be replaced, but that's not a common part to fail on these engines from what I have seen/read.

I did price the valve at the local Dodge house's service dept just to see what I would be looking at when I go to replace mine, and it's $100 for the valve and assorted accessories that come with it. So you can plan on spending at least that much if you ever replace yours. If you pay someone else to do i
t, add $120 or so for the labor to get an idea of your final cost.

Follow the service recommendation interval in your manual and you should be fine.

Nuke
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Nuke, you answered all my questions.

I did error on my post about the manufacturer's maintenance schedule - they advise to replace the PCV valve at 72,000, not 90,000 like I wrote, still reasonably later than the service department's recommendation of 40,000/60,000 miles.

The reason I asked was because I'm at 41,000 miles, and I notice sometimes she idles a little rough - do you think it's related? And I plan to get a CC soon, and figured maybe I'd just replace it at that time. Also, I was trying to figure the best location to mount the CC, as it seems most people (at least with the 3.6) aren't pleased with the CC location.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Thanks, Nuke, you answered all my questions.

I did error on my post about the manufacturer's maintenance schedule - they advise to replace the PCV valve at 72,000, not 90,000 like I wrote, still reasonably later than the service department's recommendation of 40,000/60,000 miles.

The reason I asked was because I'm at 41,000 miles, and I notice sometimes she idles a little rough - do you think it's related? And I plan to get a CC soon, and figured maybe I'd just replace it at that time. Also, I was trying to figure the best location to mount the CC, as it seems most people (at least with the 3.6) aren't pleased with the CC location.
An intermittently occurring rough idle could be caused by several things, or the combination of several things, and a malfunctioning PCV valve certainly wouldn't help matters, but it's probably more likely to be a air/fuel issue I would think.

If it were me trying to chase that type of gremlin, I would start with the cheap/easy steps first:
1) Pull the #2 fuse in the engine compartment fuse block to reset adaptives.
2) Add a bottle of Techron Fuel Sytem Cleaner or Gumout Regane Fuel System Cleaner to next gas fill-up.
3) Find some deserted roads and administer an ITU (Italian Tune Up).
4) Use name brand, 89 octane gas when possible.
5) Use an ethanol treatment at every or every other gas-up (Sta-bil is my favorite).
6) Make sure air filter is in good shape and free of debris.

With no Catch Can in place, you are going to have some oil from PCV valve coating your intake plenum and working its way into the air/fuel mixture, and that's certainly less than ideal, but it shouldn't pose a significant problem at this point.

It may down the road (or now if you run high octane tunes), but the engine is designed to handle that afterall, so long as it's behaving as expected and not introducing more oil into the intake than expected.

Which of course is where the Catch Can comes in. As far as mounting locations for the 3.6L, yes it's a matter of choosing the least crappy. I've been following another thread discussing that very subject that you may get some ideas from: Feedback on Catch Can for 3.6 - Page 2 - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums

Replacing the PCV valve before the service interval isn't necessary unless it's malfunctioning, but it won't hurt anything if you do. So if you have the $$ and want to do it, I say do it. Worst case scenario is that nothing changes because OE one was working.

But hey, peace of mind is important, and I'm always doing work that may be unnecessary but I do it anyway just to satisfy my peace of mind, so I won't bemoan someone else for doing the same.

Nuke
 
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I thought the 3.6 did not have a PCV valve? That was one of the big selling points of the "new tech" engine.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I thought the 3.6 did not have a PCV valve? That was one of the big selling points of the "new tech" engine.
The lowly PCV valve is still around, and judging by what they cost for these engines, they are apparently now made out of gold, platinum, or some other rare earth metal...kryptonite maybe even!
 
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CCV part #s for 3.6L

I found the attached doc on my laptop earlier...not sure when I originally saved it, but i wanted to add it to this thread for reference...the diagram is kinda out of whack at first glance, but it's basically from the point of view of your inspection sticker/registration sticker on windshield.

The highlighted part (#1) inside the drawing is the Makeup line running from airbox to back left side of engine.

The 3 pieces highlighted to the right of, but not actually in, the diagram are the PCV valve and accessories. Even though they are outside the diagram, their relative placement is correct with respects to the engine in the diagram - back right side of engine (@valve cover).

EDIT: dang doc didn't attach...dang fone is a hunk of crap...will try separate post with doc attached
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Doc attached

EDIT: WOOHOO!!! It finally worked!

Okay, so this is the doc I was referring to in prev post. Nothing special, just standard PDF capture from parts catalog.
 

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One more quick note for anyone replacing the PCV valve on a 3.6L: when you go to buy replacement from dealership svc dept, they'll quote you $86 for valve itself but say you also have to buy what amounts to $12 of extra stuff with it (so basically $100 all said and done).

Apparently the valve was redesigned at some point after production (on 2011, 12, & 13 models I believe), and that's what you will be buying from svc dept. And the redesign is what the $12 of extra hoses/fittings/etc is for.

The obvious response for those of us running CCs is "Nuts!" to the extra stuff cause we wouldn't really need it since we aren't running the std setup. But the counter fella told me Dodge would only warranty the new PCV valve if the extras were purchased with it. Whichever/whatever...there's the info, do with it what you can.

Nuke
 
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Discussion Starter #11
One more quick note for anyone replacing the PCV valve on a 3.6L: when you go to buy replacement from dealership svc dept, they'll quote you $86 for valve itself but say you also have to buy what amounts to $12 of extra stuff with it (so basically $100 all said and done).

Apparently the valve was redesigned at some point after production (on 2011, 12, & 13 models I believe), and that's what you will be buying from svc dept. And the redesign is what the $12 of extra hoses/fittings/etc is for.

The obvious response for those of us running CCs is "Nuts!" to the extra stuff cause we wouldn't really need it since we aren't running the std setup. But the counter fella told me Dodge would only warranty the new PCV valve if the extras were purchased with it. Whichever/whatever...there's the info, do with it what you can.

Nuke
Local Dodge parts guy told me a $76.70 for the valve and $12.70 for the hose; he said the hose isn't necessary, but Chrysler strongly suggests changing the hose at the same time. Obviously your parts guy is shoveling more BS. Before I contacted Dodge and before you posted, I stopped by Napa to get a price on the valve - the diagram of the valve looked the same, and he it cost$12.99, but they were out of stock. The big question is.......is the Chrysler/Dodge and the Napa the same quality (probably both madei n China?), or is the Dodge part really worth $64. more? I read some Jeep forum posts about the 3.6 and they seemed to have problems related to the OEM PCV valve, and when they replaced it they all seem to use a non- Chrysler part - usually $10-12.00. Jeep got the 3.6 before Dodge, so I wonder if Dodge put a better/updated valve in ourcars?

Just to confirm - the $12.00 hose that the Parts Dept pushes - that's the same hose I would cut into for the catch can, right?

BTW Nuke, thanks for those 6 suggestions you posted earlier; some of them I had been doing, and the others I will try.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Local Dodge parts guy told me a $76.70 for the valve and $12.70 for the hose; he said the hose isn't necessary, but Chrysler strongly suggests changing the hose at the same time. Obviously your parts guy is shoveling more BS. Before I contacted Dodge and before you posted, I stopped by Napa to get a price on the valve - the diagram of the valve looked the same, and he it cost$12.99, but they were out of stock. The big question is.......is the Chrysler/Dodge and the Napa the same quality (probably both madei n China?), or is the Dodge part really worth $64. more? I read some Jeep forum posts about the 3.6 and they seemed to have problems related to the OEM PCV valve, and when they replaced it they all seem to use a non- Chrysler part - usually $10-12.00. Jeep got the 3.6 before Dodge, so I wonder if Dodge put a better/updated valve in ourcars?

Just to confirm - the $12.00 hose that the Parts Dept pushes - that's the same hose I would cut into for the catch can, right?

BTW Nuke, thanks for those 6 suggestions you posted earlier; some of them I had been doing, and the others I will try.
That's interesting that the Dodge part would be two different prices in two diff locations...but it's been prob about 6-8 months ago when I priced that, so maybe it's just dropped in price since and the dodge house here has em for $77 as well...

I didn't realize there were any local auto places even offering a PCV valve yet, when I was pricing them last fall, nobody even had a part # for them yet, Dodge house was only source available. But that's good there is now at least one other option, kudos to Napa for offering some competition.

As long as their part is meant to be a direct replacement for the OE one, I wouldn't have a prob using it. Now, if it was something where that part was meant for a diff motor but it's suggested it can work in the 3.6L as well, I would be a bit reticent about trying it. But that doesn't sound like the case from your desc, so I may have to pay a visit to my local Napa this weekend (just clocked 85K miles, so I'm def due).

As far as what to modify to install CC, it all depends on what CC you have and how it attaches its hoses. An aftermarket one will prob have it's own hoses and fittings that just replace OE ones. For homemade CCs like mine, you don't necessarily have to modify any existing hoses/fittings, as you can just repurpose some or all of the OE, or replace them all together with others you buy to fit ur particular design.

But to answer your question, yes, if you were to modify anything to splice in the CC, that would be the likely thing to get modified.

Nuke
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Mulligan

I don't like how I answered your last question in my previous post. I know what you were asking, and I know what I wanted to answer with, but the two didn't meet up on paper. So let me try a diff approach.

My next two posts will each have a pic attached, and each post's text will reference its attached pic.

Each pic will be of diagrams on a dry erase board (forgive my crude drawings). One diagriam s of the OE CCV setup, and the other is of my modified CCV setup after adding CC.

Hopefully these two visual references will be able to explain things more easily than I can.

Nuke

Check them out and see if that helps any.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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OE CCV Diagram

"diagram oe setup"
1. PCV valve
2. Rubber hose elbow
3. 6" rigid plastic tube
4. 3" rubber hose connector
5. [email protected]
6. 2 x Hose clamps*

* - funky design; special tool helpful, possibly necessary.

NOTE: all lengths are guestimates, haven't measured them.
 

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Modified CCV Diagram

"diagram cc setup"
1. PCV valve
2. Rubber hose elbow [OE]
3. 8-10" rubber hose [non-OE]
4. Homemade CC
5. Rubber hose connector (2") [non-OE]
6. Rigid plastic tube (6") [OE]
7. Rubber hose connector (3") [OE]
?. 2 x Hose clamps* [OE] (@same locations)
?. 3 x Hose clamps [non-OE] (@CC connections)

* - funky design; special tool helpful, possibly neccesary.

NOTE: same warning as above.

? - denotes no # label in diagram, but you can prob fig it out
 

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Fin

Sorry about the separate posts and grainy pics, but I'm limited to using a crappy old fone to do all this, so that's the way I had to do it.

Nuke
 
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I just realized your last posts - thank-you, Nuke.
Not sure how much use my 2nd-grade-esque drawings are, but if the answer is "not much", I may be able to do a little better.

I am actually going pull both my CCs later today to empty them, and I can take some pics while doing it and post up if you think that'll be more helpful.

Keep in mind though, I have an aftermarket air inlet tube (because of CAI) and homemade CCs, so what you would see in pics may not line up with what you're expecting your outcome to be.
 
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Nuke,

As always, you go the extra mile. :thumbsup:

I bought a catch can from Billet Technologies the other day. Where I was afraid is where you have to remove the solid plastic line from the elbow. How difficult is that? Because in mind mind, all I hear is cracking. and me saying "Oh $hit".

Mike
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Nuke,

As always, you go the extra mile. :thumbsup:

I bought a catch can from Billet Technologies the other day. Where I was afraid is where you have to remove the solid plastic line from the elbow. How difficult is that? Because in mind mind, all I hear is cracking. and me saying "Oh $hit".

Mike
Neh, that little long plastic piece is pretty solid, it shouldn't crack or anything upon removal. One set of tools I would highly recommend for this sort of stuff is the 3-pack of hose removal pliers you can get at Harbor Freight. They are basically a set of those really long needle nose pliers but each one has a different diameter round bend in the pliers at the end, allowing you to grab ahold of a hose and pull without tearing it up. I think the set was like $15, but you can find a 25% off coupon usually to knock off a few bucks.
 
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