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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Place holder so we don't poop in Toofart's 6 speed top stick thread.

Some good discussion on mods vs. value in that thread, but it's getting off topic.

So, what is good value for performance gained?

Supercharger's are an expensive investment, and if kept at 6-8 psi likely OK on a stock motor as long as it's not flogged every red light. However what if you want to push on up to 500RWHP? 550? 650?

Should you build the motor first, or let it blow up and build it after?

I say build it first so it doesn't break. If it blows, it could damage the block, heads, etc making it more expensive in the long run.

Also, how much power is prudent for a street car? I say 600 at the high end. For a drag car how ever much you can get.
 

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mbrp 900 bucks 22 hp
vortech 83 hp 5500
challenger rt 332 hp 33000


so bang for my buck would have to be the exhaust.. kinda disheartening
 

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"I say build it first so it doesn't break. If it blows, it could damage the block, heads, etc making it more expensive in the long run.
Also, how much power is prudent for a street car? I say 600 at the high end. For a drag car how ever much you can get." Speedy

great thread and I agree with your thoughts,could not add much more,but maybe thread name,how bout Performance - Mod vs. Value vs. Testosterone
 

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Good thread. At first I've was really torn between a Pro-Charger style supercharger (accessory mount) and getting one that's sitting where it is supposed to be (old school) on top of the motor. I had finally decided Magnuson would probably be my choice if I decide to go that route.

Now, however, I'm wondering about other options, cam, headers, throttle body, etc. I would really like to hear about the hp gains for those that went the non-blower route.

Now I'm torn again. I don't intend to make a 1/4 mile warrior but more of a show car. The blower certainly looks good when the hood is up but dang, sure love the sound of a well cammed car.
 

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Yup agreed. Why would you want something to break or blow up on you. Then you have the mess of figuring what damage was done.
 

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I dont worry as much about the buck anymore as long as its gonna give the bang I want. I want what works, and if I can get it at a better price thats cool too. These new cars cost so much to modify compared to classic cars where you can build a 383 with 500hp for the cost of a cam & head kit on a new srt.
 

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i have always believed you build from the bottom up !
the problem with this forum is we have a bunch of guys with little track experience who bolted on a s/c and come across as know everything performance !
of course the vendors will tell you can bolt on a s/c or give it a150 shot of juice . they are here to sell product .fortunately for us (myself included) they impart much wisdom along the way .
however , i am willing to bet without exception ,their shop cars have BUILT engines .
RANT OVER
 

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Its hard to fig the value on s/c mods as theres so much involved. Here is my cost at a lower scale.
OK lets put it this way on the value. Heres my times in the 1/8 mile bone stock and with 2 mods AND A RACE WT OF 5190 LBS.
1 -Bone Stock with 91 octane @ +337 ft DA = [email protected]
2 -2 Mods of cai and cmr dyno tune and 93 octane @ +12 ft DA = [email protected].
Now thats a gain of .44 @ 4.19 mph at a cost of $600. Now thats $13.63 a tenth and $14.31 a mph. The stock dyno hp to the wheels on a AW DYNOJET was 341 and the hp after the 2 mods was 368 on 91 octane. Now that a cost of $22.22 a hp.
 

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Interesting. Value means different things to different people. Bang for the buck or top quality, can mean either.
Personally I wanted trouble free long distance driving, old school look but also something you don't see parked next to you at all the car shows. Call me vain.
Could I have got my target horsepower for less money? Yes.
Could I look as Kool getting there? Not a chance.:smokin:
 
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Build up or risk it? I think it's a personal choice -- one that must also factor in one's goals for the car as well as their financial situation.

I could afford a 10 second Challenger easily. I don't want a 10 second Challenger. My ultimate goal for my car is as close to 11.50 as I can, since that's the fine-line (in my opinion) where your car quickly transitions into a racecar with poor street manners.

You have decided to play it safe and build up first, and now you're worry free. Me, I'm stuck contemplating whether I can add 2 psi of boost without it costing me a motor.

In the end, "to each their own" is what must prevail here, and other members should learn to respect the choices of others.
 

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We're all having fun in different ways.

These lower compression overbuilt Arrington engines may outlast us all for all we know.

 

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high 11's is the fastest street car.. anything faster than that and its to much on the street in street racing type applications.. I have seen low 10 sec cars driven on the street fine.. even a cobra that was mid 9's but i think stop light to stoplight i could take them in the Ram..lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good thread. At first I've was really torn between a Pro-Charger style supercharger (accessory mount) and getting one that's sitting where it is supposed to be (old school) on top of the motor. I had finally decided Magnuson would probably be my choice if I decide to go that route.

Now, however, I'm wondering about other options, cam, headers, throttle body, etc. I would really like to hear about the hp gains for those that went the non-blower route.

Now I'm torn again. I don't intend to make a 1/4 mile warrior but more of a show car. The blower certainly looks good when the hood is up but dang, sure love the sound of a well cammed car.
I love that sound too. The problem is there are no real cam options for the 5.7s and the heads are already excellent. I'm not sure you'd gain a whole lot going that route based on money spent. Believe me I checked. That may change over time, we'll have to see. I'm hoping it does as I could add a good cam to mine for cheap at this point.

plumkrazy said:
high 11's is the fastest street car.. anything faster than that and its to much on the street in street racing type applications.. I have seen low 10 sec cars driven on the street fine.. even a cobra that was mid 9's but i think stop light to stoplight i could take them in the Ram..lol
I agree Dan. I actually struggle with that now way more than I thought I would. I actually get MUCH better traction with a full tank of fuel than 1/4 tank and have started running around with more fuel as of late to help.

In the end, "to each their own" is what must prevail here, and other members should learn to respect the choices of others.
Ding ding ding.
 

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Build up or risk it? I think it's a personal choice -- one that must also factor in one's goals for the car as well as their financial situation.

I could afford a 10 second Challenger easily. I don't want a 10 second Challenger. My ultimate goal for my car is as close to 11.50 as I can, since that's the fine-line (in my opinion) where your car quickly transitions into a racecar with poor street manners.

You have decided to play it safe and build up first, and now you're worry free. Me, I'm stuck contemplating whether I can add 2 psi of boost without it costing me a motor.

In the end, "to each their own" is what must prevail here, and other members should learn to respect the choices of others.
Well said!

And as far as some of us that bolt on a SC and don't know what we are talking about. You have no idea who we are and what we know or how long we have been around cars.
 

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I may be a vendor so take this as you want.

There are plenty of people here and on other forums that are running S/C applications with stock motors. As long as you are running 6-8 psi with proper fuel supply and tuning it is a safe mod. I myself have a Vortech S/C on my 07 Magnum SRT with a stock motor making 500+ at the wheels with no issues other than traction LOL :bigthumb:
 

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I love that sound too. The problem is there are no real cam options for the 5.7s and the heads are already excellent. I'm not sure you'd gain a whole lot going that route based on money spent.
Well that would certainly narrow down the options then. If I decide to pull the trigger its probably going to be on a magnuson if for no other reason that they are from the town I grew up in so I could kill two birds with one trip.

I may PM you sometime in the future, would like to talk with you about your blower setup.
 

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To each his own, I figure. Way too much sniping at others choices here. Not much of a community when there's so much petty crap thrown out by a few, and they just keep coming back to kick that dead horse. Whatever.

I think you know where I stand, Speedy. We've talked about it a lot. Build it well and drive it like you stole it....all you can. I'm hard on my girl, but she just keeps humming along. Awesome :)

HemiSam
 

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I'm sick of the sniping back and forth. Did anyone on here build their car for someone else? Didn't think so. As long as you're happy with what you're doing, forget everyone else.
 

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i have always believed you build from the bottom up !
the problem with this forum is we have a bunch of guys with little track experience who bolted on a s/c and come across as know everything performance !
of course the vendors will tell you can bolt on a s/c or give it a150 shot of juice . they are here to sell product .fortunately for us (myself included) they impart much wisdom along the way .
however , i am willing to bet without exception ,their shop cars have BUILT engines .
RANT OVER
:scratchhead: What guys on this forum are you referring too?

Most people do a little more than listen to a salesman/vendor before they drop 6k on a purchase. Built engines don't break?

I have a different prospective, it's a waste of money to take a relatively brand new engine that you just paid for and replace it with another with just the core value back in your pocket. Why not put some miles on it and get your moneys worth out of it? Look at Lowlife's motor, 50k miles and a record run with lots of track fun on it. Tim's (Mr Norms) KB s/c stock motor with 2000 plus dynos and track runs on it, Andy, confirmed it was like a new motor when he opened it up and posted pictures of it. Tim's motor had many more miles left on it, what a waste.

500ish rwhp and below, bolt it on!! 550 ish and above bolt it on but have plan B.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
:scratchhead: What guys on this forum are you referring too?

Most people do a little more than listen to a salesman/vendor before they drop 6k on a purchase. Built engines don't break?

I have a different prospective, it's a waste of money to take a relatively brand new engine that you just paid for and replace it with another with just the core value back in your pocket. Why not put some miles on it and get your moneys worth out of it? Look at Lowlife's motor, 50k miles and a record run with lots of track fun on it. Tim's (Mr Norms) KB s/c stock motor with 2000 plus dynos and track runs on it, Andy confirmed it was like a new motor when he opened it up and posted pictures of it. His motor hand many more miles left on it what a waste.

500ish rwhp and below, bolt it on!! 550 ish and above bolt it on but have plan B.
Reasonable argument there. LowLife and Tim's are recent advancements vs. what was going on a year ago when I did mine. I'm not even sure Mr. Norms was even on this forum back then. A year ago we had the Speedlogix 5.7 go kaboom, BW's car went boom, John's car went boom at Camaro5Fest as well as a couple others. Things are better now a days for sure.

I heard Tim was gonna try 10psi on a stock 5.7 motor. Never heard how it turned out though.
 
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