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Grease or Oil stops rust

Both stop rust..pick which one is easier for you to use...mine are coated with old used oil. :thumbsup:
 

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I know it's been brought up before but NOT the disc but HUB look very suspect.
Can I repaint this or slow rusting.
I painted mine with some cast iron gray paint and it looks fine. Other vehicles I have owned the rotor had no paint and they rust but it never hurts anything, just looks bad through the wheel. You could paint with matching body color, etc but I didn't want to draw attention to it so I went with gray.
 

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on the hub you could use rust oleum cold gavinizing compound,home depot sells it in a spray can for about $6.works really good on rusty metal and you can easily clean off overspray with some mineral spirits and a paint brush.check your brake line clips and control arm bushings while you have the tires off.ive also heard POR15 is excellent but expensive.
 

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i think its horrible that it shows rust through the wheels

i dont mind the suspension components showing rust, but im not a fan of the brakes...i may take it in to have them painted....id also choose grey or black'
 

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IMHO, here is the best solution for painting your brake rotors. It's Eastwood's Stainless Steel High Temp Coating Spray, part number 10394Z. I have been using this on all of my cars for years. It is mainly used for exhaust manifolds and will take heat upto 1200 degrees. And as a bonus it looks just like the factory paint. Beleive it or not that gray is paint and teh reason it is rusting is that the paint sucks. I painted my rotors on my 09 SRT8 as soon as I got it home. You need to prep the rotors by wiping them down with lacquer thinner (you will see the factory gray paint just wipe away with not effort) and then use a dremel with a small wire wheel to remove the rust. Use thinner again and tape of all areas you do not want the paint to go. IE: Calipers, Surface of rotor that mates with the brake pads etc.

Once taped off use a tack rag to remove any dust and paint away. You do not need to remove the rotors just spin them to get to unpainted areas. Put the car up at all four points or do two at a time. The Eastwood stuff will take the heat and the brake dust does not stick when you clean the wheels.

Just did this to my GT500 as well. Just sharing some old restoration pointers. :thumbsup:
 

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For other undercarriage parts, I use T9 Boeshield and T9 Rustfree. The rustfree will remove the rust without hurting plastic and you then spray T-9 Boesheild on a rag or you can spray it directly on the part. I use a damp rag of T-9 because it is neater and prevents over spray. It is not a paint but a lubricant that clings. It was developed in part by Boeing to lubricate and protect nose gear and other critcal airframe parts that are exposed to the eliments. It works. I sand blasted an old brake drum that was no longer useable and coated it with Boeshield. Threw it in my landscaping behind a bush and left it there all winter. No rust. I will see if I can dig up a pic. This stuff is great. Another old resto trick that I used when cleaning and detailing survivor type 60's and 70's Musclecars. If you painted any parts that were natural you lost points.
 

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on the hub you could use rust oleum cold gavinizing compound,home depot sells it in a spray can for about $6.works really good on rusty metal and you can easily clean off overspray with some mineral spirits and a paint brush.check your brake line clips and control arm bushings while you have the tires off.ive also heard POR15 is excellent but expensive.

ive used POR-15 on every car I have had.
 
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