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So my 2016 R/T 5.7 is getting up there in mileage, about 88K. Running 6-speed without mds.

If i wanted to switch weight to 5w30 or even 0w40, am i running into any potential problems?

I know the factory recommends 5w20 but im reading around and hearing the 0w40 flows a little better and i wouldn’t mind the higher viscosity for my older motor. If it takes care of some hemi tick thats nice too
 

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Yeah I wouldn't mess with what it calls for. The Engineers know the cars are driven until 250k+, and they don't include an exception on the oil cap for miles. Always use what the Engineers tell you to use.
 

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So my 2016 R/T 5.7 is getting up there in mileage, about 88K. Running 6-speed without mds.

If i wanted to switch weight to 5w30 or even 0w40, am i running into any potential problems?

I know the factory recommends 5w20 but im reading around and hearing the 0w40 flows a little better and i wouldn’t mind the higher viscosity for my older motor. If it takes care of some hemi tick thats nice too
0w-40 flows better than what?

The "0w" is the viscosity at 32F and a "0w" certainly is better for use in cold temperatures than a "5w" oil. At least one automaker says to use a "0w" oil (0w-40 as it so happens) if the car will be used in temperatures -25C and colder.

The "40" is the viscosity index at 212F. If the engine is spec'd to run 5w-20 oil this suggests the engine bearing clearances are "tight" and thus a lower viscosity oil is required to ensure adequate oil flow to and through these bearings.

88K miles ain't that many miles. I've run engines to 150K and higher (317K) miles and the same oil that worked at 1 mile worked just fine at 150K or 317K miles.

My advice is to just keep doing what you've been doing. Use the oil the factory calls for.

The "tick" if present is because the zero lash adjustment doesn't quite take up all the lash. Thicker oil won't help. The problem is the tolerances stack up and the zero lash adjuster just doesn't have the range to take up that last little bit of clearance. This might be preferred. If the lash adjustment was too "tight" this could work to keep the valves slightly open which is far worse than a bit of harmless ticking.
 

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Also engines equipped with the MDS will not function with other weight oils. 5w20 only. As said before these engines are built to very tight tolerances and the oil recommended by the mfg gives the best balance of lubricating protection and low reciprocation friction for better fuel economy. You may also get a check engine light indicating wrong viscosity oil. The pre-fuel injected engines of the 80's and earlier required different oil types and more frequent changes because of the looser tolerances and more wash down of the cylinder walls due to fuel contamination. Modern fuel injected engines have very little fuel wash caused by excessive fuel because of computer controls. Most modern engines will still show cylinder cross hatch and no top ridge at 100K plus miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
0w-40 flows better than what?

The "0w" is the viscosity at 32F and a "0w" certainly is better for use in cold temperatures than a "5w" oil. At least one automaker says to use a "0w" oil (0w-40 as it so happens) if the car will be used in temperatures -25C and colder.

The "40" is the viscosity index at 212F. If the engine is spec'd to run 5w-20 oil this suggests the engine bearing clearances are "tight" and thus a lower viscosity oil is required to ensure adequate oil flow to and through these bearings.

88K miles ain't that many miles. I've run engines to 150K and higher (317K) miles and the same oil that worked at 1 mile worked just fine at 150K or 317K miles.

My advice is to just keep doing what you've been doing. Use the oil the factory calls for.

The "tick" if present is because the zero lash adjustment doesn't quite take up all the lash. Thicker oil won't help. The problem is the tolerances stack up and the zero lash adjuster just doesn't have the range to take up that last little bit of clearance. This might be preferred. If the lash adjustment was too "tight" this could work to keep the valves slightly open which is far worse than a bit of harmless ticking.
Maybe “flow better” was the wrong term. I was considering going to a thicker oil (0w40) because i put a lot of miles. 88k may not seem like a lot, but what if i tell you my car is a 2016? About 30k a year.

However, im probably sticking to 5w20 !
 

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Maybe “flow better” was the wrong term. I was considering going to a thicker oil (0w40) because i put a lot of miles. 88k may not seem like a lot, but what if i tell you my car is a 2016? About 30k a year.

However, im probably sticking to 5w20 !
My 15 year old Boxster had 317K miles. That's over 20K miles a year. But early on I really put the miles on it.

Bought it Jan 19, 2002. By July that year I had put 25K miles on the car.

Then early in 2003 it had around (or a bit over) 75K miles.

Put 28K miles on my 2001 Z28 in 4 months.

Put on average 30K miles a year on my 2002 Golf TDi (from March 2002 to around March 2007).

Put on average 30K miles a year on my '96 Mustang (from Sept. 1996 to Sept 2001).

Doesn't matter how many miles. If you run the right oil and change it on schedule there is no wear. If the oil you have been using was not up to the task the engine would not be at 88K miles. It would be scrap.

Unless your car's engine is a smoking, shaky, knocking rattle trap what you've been doing is fine. Don't mess with success. And if your car's engine is a smoking, shaky, knocking rattle trap no oil is going to fix that.
 

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88000 miles? Your engine is not high enough mileage to worry about that. Provided you've done your maintenance, which I'm guessing you have, I bet if you were to disassemble your engine right now and measure bearing clearances, they would all still be within spec. If it has worked so far, keep on doing what you're doing and stay with 5W-20. If it wasn't adequate for your engine, you would know by now.
 

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I switched for Valvoline to Shaffers 5w-20 in my 5.7 MDS Hemi, alot quieter with about 98K miles 2013 Longhorn

Our fully synthetic 5W-20 is a multi-grade gasoline oil engineered with the finest quality of synthetic base oils, an advanced performance additive package and a viscosity index improver. This unique blend creates a premium, longer lasting oil that withstands a higher heat range than conventional oil. Using proprietary friction modifiers, Micron Moly® and Penetro®, Supreme 9000 Full Synthetic 5W-20 quickly plates to metal surfaces, creating a slippery, tenacious shield that prevents metal-to-metal contact. By reducing friction and wear, Supreme 9000™ Full Synthetic 5W-20 protects critical engine parts and increases engine efficiency, engine life and fuel economy.
 

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So my 2016 R/T 5.7 is getting up there in mileage, about 88K. Running 6-speed without mds.

If i wanted to switch weight to 5w30 or even 0w40, am i running into any potential problems?

I know the factory recommends 5w20 but im reading around and hearing the 0w40 flows a little better and i wouldn’t mind the higher viscosity for my older motor. If it takes care of some hemi tick thats nice too
FCA actually did recommend 0W-40 for a ticking 5.7L M6 but it never did anything for it, still ticked.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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FCA actually did recommend 0W-40 for a ticking 5.7L M6 but it never did anything for it, still ticked.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Was this in a form of a TSB or RRT?
 

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I switched for Valvoline to Shaffers 5w-20 in my 5.7 MDS Hemi, alot quieter with about 98K miles 2013 Longhorn

Our fully synthetic 5W-20 is a multi-grade gasoline oil engineered with the finest quality of synthetic base oils, an advanced performance additive package and a viscosity index improver. This unique blend creates a premium, longer lasting oil that withstands a higher heat range than conventional oil. Using proprietary friction modifiers, Micron Moly® and Penetro®, Supreme 9000 Full Synthetic 5W-20 quickly plates to metal surfaces, creating a slippery, tenacious shield that prevents metal-to-metal contact. By reducing friction and wear, Supreme 9000™ Full Synthetic 5W-20 protects critical engine parts and increases engine efficiency, engine life and fuel economy.
Par for the course an engine quiets down with fresh oil. I always noted how quieter my Porsche engines were after an oil change (done at 5K miles) and this was using the same oil for the change that was in the engine.

Just got my MINI JCW oil changed yesterday, after 5K miles. Dealer used 0w-20 oil, which is the same oil that was in the engine. As expected the engine is quieter, and with the oil up to temperature too.

Really even without the odometer I could "tell" when the Porsche engines were due for an oil change. More engine noise, nothing specific just an overall noisier engine, and brief smoking on cold start. I'd go months and who knows how many cold starts without seeing any oil smoke then I'd see it and really look at the odometer and note how close it was to the 5K mile mark and the next oil change.
 

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Par for the course an engine quiets down with fresh oil. I always noted how quieter my Porsche engines were after an oil change (done at 5K miles) and this was using the same oil for the change that was in the engine.

Just got my MINI JCW oil changed yesterday, after 5K miles. Dealer used 0w-20 oil, which is the same oil that was in the engine. As expected the engine is quieter, and with the oil up to temperature too.

Really even without the odometer I could "tell" when the Porsche engines were due for an oil change. More engine noise, nothing specific just an overall noisier engine, and brief smoking on cold start. I'd go months and who knows how many cold starts without seeing any oil smoke then I'd see it and really look at the odometer and note how close it was to the 5K mile mark and the next oil change.
Had high mileage full syn valoline, changed a 5K miles, telling you the engine is liking the shaf oil way better.
The moly is what makes it better me thinks


Also do not burn or loose any oil up to 7K changes, so it seems to like the full syn oil we started it on at 48K miles it had on when we bought it used.

2013 Ram Longhorn 5.7 MDS
After 40 yrs of oil changes, keep chasing the BEST oil !!! LOL
 

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0W-40 Mobil 1 is the full synthetic oil recommended for the 6.1 SRT engine.
Right you are. The 6.1l SRT engine is a bit before my "time" so I did some research and Mobil 1 0w-40 is the oil for the engine. Kind of explains why some owners of cars with engines other then the 6.1l engine apparently want to use Mobil 1 0w-40 oil.
 

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So my 2016 R/T 5.7 is getting up there in mileage, about 88K. Running 6-speed without mds.

If i wanted to switch weight to 5w30 or even 0w40, am i running into any potential problems?

I know the factory recommends 5w20 but im reading around and hearing the 0w40 flows a little better and i wouldn’t mind the higher viscosity for my older motor. If it takes care of some hemi tick thats nice too
What is your location?

I don’t need GPS coordinates or anything, just give me a state or general direction even.
 
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