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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. I don't currently have a Challenger, but I'm looking into them and thats why I'm here.

I've been playing with Volkswagen's and Audi's for the last 20 years and I've always like the look of the redesigned Challenger. Since my current Audi is nearing the 200k mark I'm thinking now might be the time to make the conversion. So I'm here to do some more research before I take the plunge. I'll apologize now if I ask any questions that might have already been beaten to death. I'll do my best to search first before posting.

Thanks,
William
 

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Welcome. You will find lots of great information and a wonderful array of opinions on this forum. One thing you will find is that no matter what your goals and priorities are, there's a Challenger model that will meet them. Whether you're starting out with a 300 HP V-6 SXT up to the 800HP Demon, there's something for everyone.
 

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Thanks for the welcome K-Dawg. I'll be looking to pick up a 392 Scat Pack. What I'm trying to research right now is how well the drive train handles a whole lot of miles. I drive about 30-35k miles annually. Which means I will void the snot out of any warranty in about 2 years.

Thankfully I grew up in a family of mechanics so I'm no stranger to being under the hood. Part of me looking into these cars is the fact that the engines are simple and there's room to work on them. I'd like to be completed with most Maint. in 2-3 hours, not just finally getting to the part I need to work on, which is the case with my current car.

I love my audi to death and she's been trouble free for 183k miles. However, aside from oil and spark plugs, everything else requires a large amount of tear-down and I just don't have time for all that anymore.

Add to that, I haven't owned a V8 yet (I have just about every other engine to some degree) and I think it's high time. So, good looks, V8, awesome sound, comfy highway cruiser an it should be easy to work on. This is pretty much the perfect recipe for me right now. So long as I'm not having to work on it every weekend.

Sorry for the book there, but that in a nutshell is why I'm here.
 

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The 392 Scat Pack seems to be favors by people who want to do some immediate performance mods. However, there are some who keep them bone stock and drive the wheels off of them (like you plan to).

I'm the owner of a 13 R/T with the 5.7. It's a 12K a year commuter (March to November) and stored in the winter. At 65K miles, I've had one wheel speed sensor go bad ($15) and a recall for bad diodes in the alternator. One set of front brake pads at 60K. Original F1 Supercar tires were gone at 13K, but then 40K on a set of Goodyear Eagle Sports and I'm on the second set of Eagle Sports now. I do oil changes twice a year, no matter what the miles are, and put a clean-able K&N air-filter in when the stock one was shot. One cabin air filter as well and a set of spark plugs (mine were 30K copper plugs)....and that's it.

The newer (2015 +) Challengers seem to have some issues with the UConnect 8.4 system needing periodic software updates, but all in all, I think you will find that most of the 392 Scat Pack drivers are going to tell you that the car is extremely reliable, capable, and super fun to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's good news to hear as that's exactly what I'm looking for.

I appreciate the run down on your maint and experience thus far. Certainly nothing to complain about there and as for constant updates on the Uconnect, it can't possibly be worse that Audi's MMI updates. I gave up on that at $400 an update.

The more I look into these cars, the better I like what I see. I appreciate your quick replies.
 

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Welcome from California ;)

A Guy
 

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Welcome

The good part is the Scat Packs (6.4 / 392 engine) are not exotic as far as maintenance goes
>oil changes every 6K (synthetic oil)
>no timing belts
>spark plugs 100k intervals

The automatics use the ZF automatic as BMW, Jaguar use. Generally recommend fluid changes every 50k miles.

And no expen$ive turbos to worry about (such as Audi...)

The early '15s had a service campaign for radiators that weren't crimped properly on assembly.

As mentioned, the '17s have a new supplier for the 8.4" touch screens, '18 seem to be better about this issue as production got 1/2 way through the year.
 

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Thanks for the welcome K-Dawg. I'll be looking to pick up a 392 Scat Pack. What I'm trying to research right now is how well the drive train handles a whole lot of miles. I drive about 30-35k miles annually. Which means I will void the snot out of any warranty in about 2 years.

Thankfully I grew up in a family of mechanics so I'm no stranger to being under the hood. Part of me looking into these cars is the fact that the engines are simple and there's room to work on them. I'd like to be completed with most Maint. in 2-3 hours, not just finally getting to the part I need to work on, which is the case with my current car.

I love my audi to death and she's been trouble free for 183k miles. However, aside from oil and spark plugs, everything else requires a large amount of tear-down and I just don't have time for all that anymore.

Add to that, I haven't owned a V8 yet (I have just about every other engine to some degree) and I think it's high time. So, good looks, V8, awesome sound, comfy highway cruiser an it should be easy to work on. This is pretty much the perfect recipe for me right now. So long as I'm not having to work on it every weekend.

Sorry for the book there, but that in a nutshell is why I'm here.
No experience with Dodges -- well just 2K miles with my R/T Scat Pack and another 2K miles with my Hellcat (and ignoring the couple of years I owned a used Dodge D200 pickup back in the mid 1970's) -- but my experience over the years with both Detroit iron and other makes (VW, Porsche) is drive trains and engines are pretty robust. I put 150K miles on my '96 Mustang. Along the way the only drive train issue was a throwout bearing went bad.

Put 28K miles on my 2001 Camaro in 4 months. Sold it though because I decided I did't like it as much as I thought I did and wanted a Porsche Boxster.

With my 2002 VW Golf TDi, put on it nearly 150K miles. I had more trouble from bad VW servicing than the car. Had the timing belt replaced and apparently VW reused the stretch bolts and they broke and the engine damned near fell out of the car. But no real engine or drive train issues.

Nearly 40K miles in my 2006 Pontiac GTO and no problems.

317K miles in my 2002 Porsche Boxster. The only engine issue other than a water pump, was a VarioCam solenoid/actuator went bad and these had to be replaced. Oh, I almost forget near 260K miles the axle CV boots split and the axles were removed cleaned inspected and found ok and packed with grease and installed with new boots. At around 50K miles later the axles/bearings were just fine.

At 317K the clutch was not slipping but it was clear from how much pressure it required it needed to be replaced. But I had it sold by then. (The buyer, a Porsche dealer, knew of the car's condition -- heck I had the car serviced/repaired there since 2006 -- so I didn't put anything over on anyone.)

Put 150K miles on a used 2003 Porsche Turbo (the car was bought used with barely 10K miles on it). No engine issues other than a leaking rear main seal at around 112K miles. But had trouble in other areas. Partially I blame the lack of use the first 6 years of its life for the front diff axle flange seal leaks, the transmssion selector shaft seal leak, the hydraulic spoiler system leaks, even the inside rear view mirror developed a leak.

As long as you give the engine/transmission/diff/brake fluids the servicing they require (or a bit better) and don't thrash the car every day it should last a long time.

Under way on flat ground the engine is only having to produce around 40hp. (With the advanced engine telemetry display you can observe this yourself.) Thus the engine really ain't working but at around 10% of its rated max. output.

The drive train of these cars are overbuilt, the result of having to deal with all the HP/torque and support a heavy car. As a result the basic drive train should last a long long time.

One attraction, though I'm not sure how much of one now as I have not priced any replacements, but one attraction I had for USA/Detroit iron is engines/transmissions/diffs were (and hopefully still are) rather affordable. Curious a few years ago I priced a new engine for my Boxster. It was $17K with a suitable core, $26K without a core. Figure around double that for my 2003 Turbo. Replacement turbo cost $7K each. The 6-speed ran about $10K. (Transmission developed a leak and was replaced under warranty. Tech told me had I had to buy this transmission it would have run me around $10K plus around $2K for installation.)

While I traded in the 2 month old R/T Scat Pack for my new Hellcat I expected the R/T Scat Pack to deliver copious miles of smiles. Same with my Hellcat.

Let me emphasize this: Service. Service. Service. Engine oil/filter at reasonable intervals (5K worked just fine for me over the above cars and hundreds of thousands of miles and after some couple of early oil/filter services I'll settle on 5K mile oil/filter services for both my new Hellcat and my new Mini JCW). Tranny/diff fluid changes on schedule at least. A bit sooner is better. Brake fluid flush/bleed every 2 years. Coolant changes every 4 years.

Don't let small things turn into big things. For instance, if you hear a noise -- a water pump for instance -- don't delay but get the noise source id'd and the source of the noise addressed pronto. No engine noise ever got better with more engine run time.

Keep the car clean.

Be sure to keep the body water drains free of any plant trash build up that could have rain/wash water back up and flow into where it doesn't belong.

Run a good gasoline of the proper octane rating.

Change engine and cabin filters on schedule. Ditto plugs. Fuel filter.

If you push the car hard once in a while wait until the engine is fully up to temperature. Remember oil temperature lags coolant temperature. And transmission temperature lags oil temperature.

After you push the car hard drive it easy to let it shed the considerable heat load the hardware builds up.

Drive the car. Often. I came upon so many Porsches over the years that covered just a few K miles per year on average (the used Turbo I bought at 6 years old had just 10K miles,1667 miles per year average, on it and I blame this for the leaks mentioned above) and were worse condition than if they had been used more.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm very well versed with the ZF trans. My current daily driver is a 2012 Audi A6 with the 3.0L supercharged. It uses the AWD version of the ZF 8-speed. I've serviced the trans myself, and actually have 5 leftover bottles of the fluid from my last fluid & filter change.

I hear you on the turbo's though. My first A6 (2001) was twin turbo'd and due to their location in the car, it was a twin nightmare. If you have to work on the turbo's, you have to pull the engine & trans (easier to pull the trans with). This is why I'm looking forward to a nice simple V8 for a change.

Thats good info on the touch screens though. I'll be looking to pick up a 2018 so that is very good info indeed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Rockster - Thanks for all the info. It honestly sounds like we could be old buddies with the way you dispense your knowledge and your love for proper maint. I'm the same way. Feel free to share wisdom anytime.

I've also had the same issue with VW/Audi service. Only time my cars have been in their shops is due to recall work and even then I usually end up going back over the job and cleaning up behind them. So it sounds like we are both from the old school of do the maint right and the car will take care of you.

As for driving often. I commute 100 miles a day and 90 of it is pure highway. So no choice, the miles will pile on quickly.
 

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Welcome aboard! :) You will find a wealth of knowledge on this forum.
 
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