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2013 Challenger RT
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did my break-in 30 minute idle run between 2000 and 2500 rpm today. Was running rich enough to make the cats glow red. Monitored codes while running. Ending up killing the bank 1 upstream o2 sensor. Could not get car to idle. Under 1200 rpm it would stall.

Did my break-in oil change. Changed out the o2 sensor that went bad. It was black. Another sign of running too rich. Started it up again this evening. Ran a little better, but both cats still glowed. Not as much as this morning though. Again, could not get engine to idle under 1200 rpm. If I let off the throttle, it stalls.

No leaks. All fluids look good. Oil was pre-lubed, so oil pressure was fine. No abnormal codes except the expected deactivation solenoid codes for MDS that I no longer have.

My question...do I need to get a tune and upload it myself so I can get this car moving again? I thought I was going to be able to go to a tune shop with a dyno, but doesn't seem possible at the moment.

Sorry for the long post. Here's my upgrades...

Comp Cams Stage 1 201-300-17
Comp Cams push rods
Mopar non-mds lifters
BBK shorty headers
Ported intake manifold ports
Airaid CAI
MDS Delete
180 degree thermostat

Thank you all ahead of time.
 

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Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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9,439 Posts
You may be able to get one via email that will work well enough to either continue driving and tuning it via email to dial in, or get an email one that will get you to a Dyno to finish up.

Either way, I see a modified tune in your very near future before too many more miles are put on the car...
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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1,282 Posts
Did my break-in 30 minute idle run between 2000 and 2500 rpm today. Was running rich enough to make the cats glow red. Monitored codes while running. Ending up killing the bank 1 upstream o2 sensor. Could not get car to idle. Under 1200 rpm it would stall.

Did my break-in oil change. Changed out the o2 sensor that went bad. It was black. Another sign of running too rich. Started it up again this evening. Ran a little better, but both cats still glowed. Not as much as this morning though. Again, could not get engine to idle under 1200 rpm. If I let off the throttle, it stalls.

No leaks. All fluids look good. Oil was pre-lubed, so oil pressure was fine. No abnormal codes except the expected deactivation solenoid codes for MDS that I no longer have.

My question...do I need to get a tune and upload it myself so I can get this car moving again? I thought I was going to be able to go to a tune shop with a dyno, but doesn't seem possible at the moment.

Sorry for the long post. Here's my upgrades...

Comp Cams Stage 1 201-300-17
Comp Cams push rods
Mopar non-mds lifters
BBK shorty headers
Ported intake manifold ports
Airaid CAI
MDS Delete
180 degree thermostat

Thank you all ahead of time.
I'm actually surprised it's running that bad with that cam. Sure timings not off? The HRT1 is a very mild cam.
 

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2016 Jazz Blue A8 Scat
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1,204 Posts
You need a base tune to start up with all but the mildest of camshafts, and even those will benefit from tuning.

There is no "break-in" on a roller cam. Get it tuned ASAP before you wash the rings out of the engine and kill the cats with excess fuel. If the cats were glowing, you probably have already done dammage...
 

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2013 Challenger RT
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies, guys. @JD40 Yes sir. New timing components were installed and meticulously checked for line up of all marks a few times. I was being extra cautious not to screw that up. I will shop for a tune tonight when I have some more seat time in front of a computer. I'm thinking of HP Tunes.
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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1,282 Posts
Didn’t see new valve springs on your list. A must with cam swap.
That's supposed to be a NSR cam. Although if his cars got a lot of miles I could see that being an issue
 

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2013 Challenger RT
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, NSR. The lift of the cam is well within limits of the springs. However, as a side note, I should have just dropped the bucks for some springs anyways.
 
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Reactions: Mopar 19 SP

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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Yes, NSR. The lift of the cam is well within limits of the springs. However, as a side note, I should have just dropped the bucks for some springs anyways.
Mopar performance springs can be had for like $70 for all 16
 
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2019 Challenger Scatpack “Mopar 19” #43. FBO Cam. ProCharged
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73 Posts
Yes, NSR. The lift of the cam is well within limits of the springs. However, as a side note, I should have just dropped the bucks for some springs anyways.
Hey brother, went through same. Tune definitely required. I went with comp cam 270 and swapped out push rods, springs, lifters, mds delete, etc. once it’s properly tuned you will be good. Hope you didn’t fry your cats. Best of luck.
 

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2013 Challenger RT
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@Mopar 19 SP did you have glowing cats? If so, did you end up replacing them?
 

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2019 Challenger Scatpack “Mopar 19” #43. FBO Cam. ProCharged
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@Mopar 19 SP did you have glowing cats? If so, did you end up replacing them?
yes I did, I was able to get the kooks catted midpipe switched out through kooks. Great customer service. I was told the cats were pretty much shot and they would continue to burn out the o2 sensors without a switch. All worked out and I’m sure it’ll all workout for you.
 
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