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Sorry to hear about the engine! It might have been from bad gas,too much timing,loss of fuel pressure etc.This is where gauges and data logging at the track, come in handy!I doubt he is running enough horsepower to run the rails dry.A fuel pressure gauge could tell you if the BAP was working.You would have to have a good amount of spark knock to bust a piston.Something you need to check every once in awhile.
 

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I "think" the Vortech runs the stock fuel rails. I wonder if upgrading those with crossovers is advisable here. The stock rails just have the one cross over in the middle if memory serves.

He was dyno'd at 470RWHP.
Well if the motor is going to get pulled,he might as well put better rails on.I would be more concerned with the tune.The check engine light should of come on, during his drive home.Maybe one of the tuners can chime in,knock sensors and missfire monitor could have been desensitized.With a scan tool the missfire monitor counter can be checked for individual cyl missfire.
 

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Low compression will set a missfire code.I see it all the time,spark and fuel are good,but compression is low in the missfiring cylinder.The computer looks at the crank sensor for a slow firing cylinder.The crank rotation speed will be slower on a weak cylinder.A scan tool will tell you if the missfire monitor is on and working.
 

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a lot of guys look at this wrong.. maybe its not much faster.. or making more power.. but the fact is they will handle more when you throw more at it.. so even if my baby 5.7 beats speedys 6.0.. eventually mine will fail and he will be at sonic having a milkshake while im waiting on my arrington or bes longblock...

PK.

6 speeds are not slow.. they just have scared or bad drivers....

my cann tune had an air fuel of greater than 10.0 to 1... good reason to have good tune...
I don't know about... anything you can throw at it.. 426 Over Achiever - Track video included - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums
Any engine can blow with a bad tune or fuel issue.Not a big fan of the Mahle pistons,they use them in the factory engines too.You need a good tune and gauges no matter what.I know Mopar performance parts come with no warranty or most speed parts for that matter.So,getting stuff like this warrantied will be tough.You got to pay to play as they say!
 

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Get a good A/F gauge.A good tuner can dial it in with an email tune.Just have to send him datalogs and what the A/F readings are at certain rpms.Most engines make the most power at 12.5 to 1 A/F.The forced induction tunes are richer to keep the cyl. temps down and prevent detonation(11.0 to 11.5).The BAP is reliable if wired correctly through a relay and monitored.Aftermarket fuel pumps fail too, from poor wiring or failed intank hoses.
 

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The stock pump setup is pretty reliable,don't see many pump failures at all on the LX/LC cars.I'm sure walbro is a good pump,but do they come with a 3/36 warranty to back it up??I don't like adding aftermarket pumps,when the stock pump is quality.Anybody got 100k miles on a walbro?I'm sure at higher HP levels(650rwhp+) you need 2 pumps.I like the crank this performance set up I saw, uses the stock bucket with better wiring and lines.I remember several guys having fuel pump failures with dual pumps and blown intank hoses.These same guys are on their second fuel pump setup.They never mention this.:scratchhead:
 
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