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Discussion Starter #1
Take a look guys and tell me what you think. I don't do a lot of mods to my car. I am a big fan of keeping things pretty stock. Definitely can't bear drilling holes in her. I wanted my factory HD calipers/brackets color keyed to match the car. I decided on powder coating. I found a company down in Texas to actually do the work. (actually found them on this site) They are not cheap but they do beautiful work, mirror gloss finish. Another reason for choosing them is because they disassemble, powder coat and reassemble them. Instead of pulling my calipers off and having it sit on blocks during this time, I found a brand new set of calipers and brackets off of a 2010 Challenger R/T on Ebay (pulloffs) with lines and new pads. Total cost 69.95 with 18.00 shipping. I couldn't believe that price. Now for the major pain in the butt. Matching Plum Crazy Purple in powder. I found someone that I think actually had a match but they refused to sell me the powder. I think I have found someone to actually match it for a reasonable price. Mind you, when I say reasonable, its still not cheap. When all is said and done, I will do the swap and bleed myself, assuming I don't have to do an ABS bleed, this is going to cost me about 700.00. OK, opinions? Be kind. :notallthere:
 

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I do my own powdercoating (small items) and I can tell you if he does REALLY good job, and it is mirror like finish, that's a lot of work. I haven't mastered the technique, but with metals that are porous (like calipers), it would be hard.

As far as the color purple, I found a really close match with an Eastwood powder. I don't have a PCP, but I did some billet caps in the powder I found and it was really really close.. Close enough that a PCP owner wanted my caps.

Anyways, overall I think $700 might be a bit high, but if he makes them shine with a mirror gloss finish, you should be happy. Did they say the calipers would have a mirror gloss finish, or is it just that some parts they have as examples are high gloss?

I do know you cannot "mix" powders and come up with new colors. If they have an exact match for PCP, they must have someone who made it for them, which will certainly drive costs.

Good find on the takeoffs.

Powdercoating in some respects is easy, but to get consistent, smooth (ie no orange peel) can be difficult. I've not mastered that yet.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually, when I found them here on one of the posts, they had listed dozens of pics of their caliper work. In many of the pictures they had one of their business cards under the caliper and you could read the business card and see the colors of the card in the caliper finish. I have that mentality, do it right, or don't do it at all. People always ask me if I have any moderation. Apparently not. If its allowed, I will repost the link. Still learning the rules here. Don't want to get my butt kicked off. The 700.00 included everything, the cost of the new calipers, the custom matched powder (with extra for later projects, I am also having a Petty Strut brace done), their work (disassembly, powder coating and reassembly (not sure if return shipping is included)) and an inexpensive power bleeder. Probably 200.00 higher then I had originally counted on. I just really fell in love with their work.
 

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I believe you can post a link, as long as you don't continually push their wares, you should be fine. If the $700 includes coating the stut brace and everything you identify above, that's probably a pretty good price.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Mike,
Ok, here's the link. Check out the work. Looking at this link changed my mind about who was doing the work. I don't have any affiliation to them but I exchanged a few emails with them. I think this post is older because in the string they talk about disassembling the caliper and sending the parts back. In our emails, disassembly, powder coating and reassembly is included in the quote.

Jeff

Caliper powder coating
 

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Yup... look great. Looks like he clear coats (with powdercoating of course), afterwards, which really brings out the shine. I think it's worth it.

Just so you know the whole process, which helps justify the cost (and for others info).

1. Disassemble and degrease
2. Outgass (bake in oven for 30 mins or more to get all the crud outta the metal)
3. Degrease again after cooling... Possibly outgas again, but probably not
4. Powdercoat in base color and bake for 20 mins at 400 - allow to cool
5. Shoot again with clear coat and bake again at lower temp. This is the most difficult part and the part I personally have not mastered. You need a better gun than what I have to do it properly... Too much clear coat and you get yellowing.
6. Reassemble

I would say based on the pics he does really good work and the price, while expensive, is reasonable for the amount of work done. Good luck and show us some pics when you're done!

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Mike, That does help! Yes, he says he clear coats, which I said explains his high gloss. He responded to that saying, it's not only that but the high quality of his guns and ovens. So, you are right, I guess the better quality of the gun produces better results. I am waiting on the powder still, so most likely it will be after Christmas before I send them to him. Good thing too, money is zapped right now from Christmas shopping. I will try and do a pictorial while installing them. While I have done many brake jobs, I am a little concerned about pulling off the calipers that were full of brake fluid and putting new ones on that are completely empty. Even with a pressure bleeder I am concerned about getting all the air out, then not to mention if I have to bleed the ABS, considering I don't have a Star Scan tool.
Jeff
 

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Can't help ya on the need to bleed the ABS or not... I've done a lot of brakes myself, but none on the new Challengers. Betcha you can get them bled enough to, get to the dealership, or a local shop to have them finish it if necessary.

Better quality tools definitely help. I have the Eastwood hobby gun.. does okay for my things, but it's an entry level deal and it's older. To do multiple coats, which the clear coat requires, you have to have a multi-voltage gun.. cranking up the voltage for the second coat to adhere properly. I'll probably buy one some day.

Good luck! Looking forward to the finished project!

Mike
 

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I was thinking of the same thing but the price looks to steep.
 

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On the brake bleeding, just do one caliper at a time. If you have a friend, get him to work the pedal and bleed the system as normal. No worries on affecting the ABS system on a simple caliper R&R. The only time I ran into bleeding probs is installing a line lock. If you don't have a helper, take the cap off the master cylinder, making sure it stays full and open the bleeder screw and gravity bleed, letting it run until no more air bubbles appear.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Price wise... Its actually not been too bad. I bought a whole set of brand new factory calipers for 86.00 with the shipping. The custom matched powder believe it or not only cost me 100.00 for 5 lbs. Far more then enough for the brakes and any other parts I want to have done. The largest expense is having the powder coating done...400.00, but they are going to completely disassemble, powder coat and then reassemble the calipers. I just need to swap them out and bleed. I have an inexpensive pressure bleeder (nice unit though, 60.00) that will keep the master cylinder full and pressure on the system so that I just need to go around and open the bleeder screws. With the calipers bolted in place, and totally dry, will they bleed completely or should I connect the lines and bleed while they are free so that I can move them around to be sure there is no trapped air?
 

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Looking forward to seeing the end result, sounds like it should be worth the effort and $.
 

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Take a look guys and tell me what you think. I don't do a lot of mods to my car. I am a big fan of keeping things pretty stock. Definitely can't bear drilling holes in her. I wanted my factory HD calipers/brackets color keyed to match the car. I decided on powder coating. I found a company down in Texas to actually do the work. (actually found them on this site) They are not cheap but they do beautiful work, mirror gloss finish. Another reason for choosing them is because they disassemble, powder coat and reassemble them. Instead of pulling my calipers off and having it sit on blocks during this time, I found a brand new set of calipers and brackets off of a 2010 Challenger R/T on Ebay (pulloffs) with lines and new pads. Total cost 69.95 with 18.00 shipping. I couldn't believe that price. Now for the major pain in the butt. Matching Plum Crazy Purple in powder. I found someone that I think actually had a match but they refused to sell me the powder. I think I have found someone to actually match it for a reasonable price. Mind you, when I say reasonable, its still not cheap. When all is said and done, I will do the swap and bleed myself, assuming I don't have to do an ABS bleed, this is going to cost me about 700.00. OK, opinions? Be kind. :notallthere:
I painted mine with it under 100 miles. I highly recommend putting color on them. Whatever makes you happy. I went with red calipers and black brackets. It wasnt bad with a brand new car, very little cleaning, but dismanteling them 100% putting it on the shelf, and mutiple coats are required.
What I found a giant pain was when you reinstall them you kick the paint, so re-coat, re-coat. Then when you re-coat you tend to drip some, so touch up, touch up, the when you install the wheels, nick, chip, so then its touch up, again. Once you go in and replace the rotors, its another nick here and there, more touch up.

I also made the big mistake of cleaning them with brake cleaner. This removed the paint, so I had to do it all over again.

The innitial paint job took about 3 days because you wate between coats, and it takes 2-3 coats. Once its back on the car, you need to do 2-3 coats of touch up.

Then when you change the pads or rotors, its touch up again.

Moral to this story, GET IT POWER COATED!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If that $700.00 is feasable in your budjet, DO IT! I wish I had dont it that way. Yes mine cost less than $50.00 and 3 days of my time (4-6 hours/day) and 3 days downtime of the car, but if I knew the resources where do to the power coating I would easly have saved for the money.

If I was to build a proper car (not show, but more like I want it, u know, srt-8 plus s/c, summer car only summer tires, etc) I would take the time to get power coating.

DO IT, its well worth the money. No questions, no hesitations.

While your wating on the parts to come back, you can put anti-sway bars under it when its up in the air, at the same time your putting the temp e-bay parts on it.

With the PCP Clasic you have, it deserives to have power coated calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just got the strut brace back from the powder coater on Saturday. Beautiful color match. Installed in 10 minutes. Torqued to 29 lbs. Showed it off all day. Every person that looked at it said, really, are you sure that wasn't there before. Looks like it came from the factory. Very very pleased. Cannot wait for the calipers to be finished!
 

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Sounds like a cool project. I'd like to see some pics.

Although I have to say, I'm not sure those elements are important enough to me to dump $700 into it. I'd prefer to buy headers or something, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I'll take some pics of the strut bar and post them. I am going to try and do the brakes as a pictorial and post them from beginning until end. I totally understand. Being that the R/T doesn't come equiped with the "big Brakes", but the heavy duty brakes, this was just a choice I made between leaving them alone and looking like every other R/T or puchasing an aftermarket upgrade and spending 2 to 3 thousand. From everything I had read the R/T, HD brakes were actually very good and I do no extreme driving and therefore spending the money to upgrade to a "Big Break" system would probably be excessive for me. I liked the eye grabbing color of the Brembo calipers and again, not wanting to be like everyone else, red was out. The ideal solution for me seemed to be to powder coat the calipers in a matching purple powder. Again, since I don't really drive hard enough to make the strut brace have any real affect or bring in the necessity for more braking power, this would be simply for looks.
 

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I would recommend EBC race pads, and slotted rotors to have a slight edge. The official 60-0 times of the R/T is quite slow, but with upgraded pads and rotors mine isnt bad. Its pretty good. There is a guy in germany who drives an r/t on the autobond, and says at 100+ mph the brakes are crasy weak / dangerous. Not safe at all. When doing 120-140 and trying to get down to 80 they just dont do the job, near accident level. Totally not usable at 100MPH speeds.

Im assumnig you arent planning on racing 100 mpg speeds, or doign that on the street much or at all, so its irrelivant.

I do find when I race the boosted imports my ebc race pads and slotted rotors are a must to make it pretty good vs their stock brakes.

I love the idea of more power coating.

Personally I started with hp mods, DiabloSport, intake filter, cat back, that type of things. Then I did anti-sway bars, front and back, plus strut brace, and WOW. If the only thing you do is suspension mods, do that before anything else. Forget exhaust, intake or headers, do suspension mods. Totally a different car. My car out handles SRT-8's When I turn the wheel it goes there. My limiting factor is the tires sidewals, so my next upgrade will be SRT-8 tires / rims.

Highly recommend anti-sway bars. The strut brace is a huge help to.
 
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