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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay, I have a 2010 Challenger RT with 5.7L and 5 spd auto trans. To start the engine I have to press the brake pedal and then press the START button. That's just dumb, what I want to do is get a momentary off-on-off toggle switch with a carbon fiber guard over the switch. Example of the toggle switch I'm referring to on eBay (SET OF 4 Carbon Fiber Look RED Light LED Aircraft Type Toggle Switch 12V DC | eBay)


What I want to do is change the wiring so that I don't press the brake pedal, instead I install one of these momentary switches on the dash beside the START button so I start the car like they do (sort of) in NASCAR. Lift the guard, hold switch up and press START button then release all buttons and drive away.


Has anyone done this with their Challenger? :scratchhead: I'm looking to know what wire under the dash do I need to grab and route up to this carbon fiber switch without setting my car on fire or totally screwing up my whole electrical system.


Thanks
 

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Okay, I have a 2010 Challenger RT with 5.7L and 5 spd auto trans. To start the engine I have to press the brake pedal and then press the START button. That's just dumb, what I want to do is get a momentary off-on-off toggle switch with a carbon fiber guard over the switch. Example of the toggle switch I'm referring to on eBay (SET OF 4 Carbon Fiber Look RED Light LED Aircraft Type Toggle Switch 12V DC | eBay)


What I want to do is change the wiring so that I don't press the brake pedal, instead I install one of these momentary switches on the dash beside the START button so I start the car like they do (sort of) in NASCAR. Lift the guard, hold switch up and press START button then release all buttons and drive away.


Has anyone done this with their Challenger? :scratchhead: I'm looking to know what wire under the dash do I need to grab and route up to this carbon fiber switch without setting my car on fire or totally screwing up my whole electrical system.


Thanks


So you want to replace a push of the brake with a flip of a switch?
Probably going to be harder than you think. You have accessory mode wiring along with ign mode wiring to contend with. What happens if you're cruising down the road and accidently bump the switch? If the ign dies your air bags may too.
Easier to mount the switches and pretend.
 

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It is like that so you won't start your car while it is in gear. It is a regulation. Good luck bypassing that! I bet you could find the rule on the NTSB site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the feedback, glad I didn't waste my time trying to figure it out, I was concerned that I will wear out the brake components prematurely pressing the brake every time I start the car ie: brake switch, hydraulics, calipers everything being actuated every time I start it up. That's a lot of un-necessary braking over the years. Anyway it was just a wild ass crazy idea. :)
 

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Thanks for the feedback, glad I didn't waste my time trying to figure it out, I was concerned that I will wear out the brake components prematurely pressing the brake every time I start the car ie: brake switch, hydraulics, calipers everything being actuated every time I start it up. That's a lot of un-necessary braking over the years. Anyway it was just a wild ass crazy idea. :)
The only thing that gets (actuated) every time is your finger and Ive been told fingers come with a life time warranty unless you accidently cut one off. Then they are no longer covered by the warranty.
 

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Thanks for the feedback, glad I didn't waste my time trying to figure it out, I was concerned that I will wear out the brake components prematurely pressing the brake every time I start the car ie: brake switch, hydraulics, calipers everything being actuated every time I start it up. That's a lot of un-necessary braking over the years. Anyway it was just a wild ass crazy idea. :)
don't give up on it. all you're doing is by passing the brake pedal in the brake safety switch, not the actual safety switch itself.

i've bypassed the clutch safety switch on jeeps before. it can be helpful sometimes offroad. anyway the principle is the same.

when you hit the brake pedal, there is a sensor switch that activates. you just have to add your new switch in the mix to fake the signal from the sensor.

the only odd thing i see that's possible is that as advanced as our cars are, it could be the computer reading that the brake pedal is pushed rather than a standalone sensor like clutch pedals have. in that case your momentary switch would be faking a signal that would also cause the brake lights to come on when you hold your switch up. this may also trigger your neutral safety switch and allow the car to be shut off and/or started in gear.

otherwise, it probably wouldn't cause any unpredictable issues, but if you hit it while driving, i'm sure the computer would have a panic attack at the very least. with the conflicting reports with the sensors.
 

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I don't see why you couldn't splice a switch in line with the brake switch on the brake pedal. I don't know whether the brake switch down by the pedal is normally open or closed but when you figure that out, you'd know whether you have to wire the aux switch in series or parallel. If I wanted to do this, I might buy a momentary (press and hold) switch and wire it in close to the start button. Then you could just hold down that switch with one finger and press the start button with another finger. If you put it just under the start button for example, you could hold the momentary switch down with your thumb and push the start button with your index finger.

Just keep in mind that I think there's only one brake switch so you're aux switch has to be able to take the amperage going through the brake switch (not sure what that is) and also be aware that as long as you are operating the aux switch, you're brake lights will be on.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
One thing I was concerned with is by hitting the brake pedal every time you start the engine is that I would experience premature wear of the mechanics of that system and I'm right. Lately while driving I have been hearing a constant HISS coming from the dash on the drivers side and it continues until I shut the engine off and press the brake pedal to expel the vacuum in the brake booster then the HISS stops. So while under warranty I took it back to DODGE, turns out they had to replace the hydra brake booster because a seal or rubber boot had formed a crack and leak and it was covered under warranty. So I ask, is this crazy protocol startup procedure killing prematurely the brake components? Sure sounds like it to me.
 

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One thing I was concerned with is by hitting the brake pedal every time you start the engine is that I would experience premature wear of the mechanics of that system and I'm right. Lately while driving I have been hearing a constant HISS coming from the dash on the drivers side and it continues until I shut the engine off and press the brake pedal to expel the vacuum in the brake booster then the HISS stops. So while under warranty I took it back to DODGE, turns out they had to replace the hydra brake booster because a seal or rubber boot had formed a crack and leak and it was covered under warranty. So I ask, is this crazy protocol startup procedure killing prematurely the brake components? Sure sounds like it to me.
no, i'm going to go with that being a fluke.

when you push the brake to start the car, you're going to just keep holding the brake until you shift, and then still keep holding it until the car is ready to move. you're pushing the pedal the same number of times you normally would. you're just holding it an extra ten seconds. or at least that's what i do with my wife's Charger R/T. it has the push button. my challenger just has the fobik and i don't have to hold the brake to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
no, i'm going to go with that being a fluke.

when you push the brake to start the car, you're going to just keep holding the brake until you shift, and then still keep holding it until the car is ready to move. you're pushing the pedal the same number of times you normally would. you're just holding it an extra ten seconds. or at least that's what i do with my wife's Charger R/T. it has the push button. my challenger just has the fobik and i don't have to hold the brake to start.
Well not exactly, in my old Intrepid, I put key in ignition and started engine, then let it warm up for a couple minutes, let fluids move thru the engine and transmission, let everything get all happy and warm inside, then I put foot on brake, put in gear and off I go. Now with the Challenger same thing only now I have to press brake pedal to start it, still have to let it run for couple minutes before I put it in gear and go. So technically I'm pressing the brake pedal 2x more than my last car ever had to. I know I'm micro managing it but still, just saying.
 

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So with the hundreds upon hundreds of thousands of times you will push your brake pedal over the life of the car, you're worried about that one extra light touch on the pedal when you start up??
This falls in line with the guy who refused to use his turn signals because he was worried that it shortened the life of the bulbs....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So with the hundreds upon hundreds of thousands of times you will push your brake pedal over the life of the car, you're worried about that one extra light touch on the pedal when you start up??
This falls in line with the guy who refused to use his turn signals because he was worried that it shortened the life of the bulbs....
Well since you brought it up, it's kind of a bad design on the door windows that it has to blip up and down every time you open the stupid door. I live up in Toronto CANADA and I already got a feel of winter driving with frozen shut windows and I couldn't get into the car. So not only is this a dumb design, it is prematurely wearing out the window motor un-necessarily now, its not a winter friendly car and no I'm not parking it for the winter, it's a car for god sakes not a pet dog, engineers at DODGE weren't thinking about ice when they conceived up that concept. 2 Drs been around for forever and never had the blip up/down so why now. Can anyone explain the rationale behind this genius idea?
 

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Well since you brought it up, it's kind of a bad design on the door windows that it has to blip up and down every time you open the stupid door. I live up in Toronto CANADA and I already got a feel of winter driving with frozen shut windows and I couldn't get into the car. So not only is this a dumb design, it is prematurely wearing out the window motor un-necessarily now, its not a winter friendly car and no I'm not parking it for the winter, it's a car for god sakes not a pet dog, engineers at DODGE weren't thinking about ice when they conceived up that concept. 2 Drs been around for forever and never had the blip up/down so why now. Can anyone explain the rationale behind this genius idea?
Let out the trapped air when the door shuts, thus making the doors close easier. Better on the ear drums too. Nice feature IMO. Dumb design or dumb purchase on your part...
 

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Well since you brought it up, it's kind of a bad design on the door windows that it has to blip up and down every time you open the stupid door. Can anyone explain the rationale behind this genius idea?
Since the door frame does not wrap around the top of the window, the window needs to seal against door seals attached to the body of the car. When you close the door from the outside you'll notice the window sliding up into the seals. If the window didn't crack opening the door the window would be still be sealed to the body, making opening the door pretty difficult without damaging anything.

Edit: And yes KJ, that is a nice feature of it as well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
UPDATE: On hiss noise coming from under the drivers side of the dash, I dropped the car off at the Dodge dealership this morning to have this HISS looked at, I checked online what it could be in advance and it was confirmed just now that the Master Cylinder and Brake Booster is shot! In fact they will not let the car leave the shop in this condition because it's not road worthy in this condition. Parts are ordered and in 3 days it will get swapped under my extended warranty I bought from Dodge when I bought the car. Warranty also covers the cost of a loaner car up to 5 days as are the parts and labor, I just pay the $100 deductible. Here's my issue, the car only has 56,243 km on it or (34,947 miles) and already the master cylinder and brake booster is fried, that's sad! So what was I saying about prematurely wearing out brake mechanism parts by pressing brake pedal to start the car? or maybe my car is just a rare dud!, Yeah that's got to be it, I got a dud.
 

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it's just a fluke. nothing to to do with your starting procedure.
 

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Well not exactly, in my old Intrepid, I put key in ignition and started engine, then let it warm up for a couple minutes, let fluids move thru the engine and transmission, let everything get all happy and warm inside, then I put foot on brake, put in gear and off I go. Now with the Challenger same thing only now I have to press brake pedal to start it, still have to let it run for couple minutes before I put it in gear and go. So technically I'm pressing the brake pedal 2x more than my last car ever had to. I know I'm micro managing it but still, just saying.
You can always remote start to let it warm up then you don't have to worry about pressing the break pedal that initial start time.
 

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UPDATE: On hiss noise coming from under the drivers side of the dash, I dropped the car off at the Dodge dealership this morning to have this HISS looked at, I checked online what it could be in advance and it was confirmed just now that the Master Cylinder and Brake Booster is shot! In fact they will not let the car leave the shop in this condition because it's not road worthy in this condition. Parts are ordered and in 3 days it will get swapped under my extended warranty I bought from Dodge when I bought the car. Warranty also covers the cost of a loaner car up to 5 days as are the parts and labor, I just pay the $100 deductible. Here's my issue, the car only has 56,243 km on it or (34,947 miles) and already the master cylinder and brake booster is fried, that's sad! So what was I saying about prematurely wearing out brake mechanism parts by pressing brake pedal to start the car? or maybe my car is just a rare dud!, Yeah that's got to be it, I got a dud.


Mine hisses when I depress the brake to start it as the engine isn’t running, it releases the pressure until you have vacuum and even then, if hit hard enough when the engine is running. Has since I've had it. It is supposed to. Odd your master cyl and booster are bad but no cels? Would of thought that a bad Booster would have triggered a vacuum leak, master cyl would have given you the red brake light and possibly the yellow ABS light. Like others eluded to, it's a fluke. Butt load of LXs out there and haven't seen any other posts about starting procedure and premature brake component failures. Good thing you had the warranty.
 
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