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Discussion Starter #1
Been looking for a few months now, and finally located something I am interested in. Its a bit of travel, but worth it I think.

Dealt with the guy in email so far, but he gave me a price I do not think is right.

Please correct me if I am wrong about how the discounts and incentives work.

Affiliate program pricing is 1% below invoice. After that you take off the bonus cash, which is $3500 in that area. I also have a Sams club discount of $1000.

All of that should combine correct? This dealer was $1300 higher than the number I worked out.

Thanks for any help.
 

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I bought mine recently with affiliate program. It was about $300 below their lowest advertised price with rebates. The thing I found was that not all rebates are good in all areas and the websites often show full rebates even through you may not qualify for all of them.


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Discussion Starter #3
Right, I usually ignore those internet prices because they include every rebate possible. These are the standard bonus cash rebates that should apply to everyone. They were 2750 a month ago, now 3250 in Midlantic, and 3500 in southeast.

$3,500 cash back on select Dodge Challenger models

$3,500 cash back
Applies to select new 2017 Dodge Challenger.
Offer only valid 6-20-2017 through 7-05-2017
Get up to 3,500 Cash Allowance
$250 Southeast 2017 Bonus Cash SECHA(1)
$500 Challenger V8 Retail Bonus Cash 44CHB7(2)
$500 Southeast Independence Day Bonus Cash SECH2L(3)
$1000 Southeast BC Retail Consumer Cash 66CH1(4)
$1250 Southeast 2017 Retail Bonus Cash SECHA1(5)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here are the numbers, if anyone could correct or confirm I would appreciate it.

MSRP - $44,775
Invoice $ 42,872 (estimated on truecar)

Affiliate price: $42,444
Bonus cash incentives -$3500
Sams Club Incentive -$1000

Price before tax/tags/fees $37,944
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Really? One dealer I spoke to told me it was applicable but maybe he did not think to check it with the affiliate discount.

So I am basically looking at the affiliate price (inv-1%) minus the standard incentives?

Do I have much haggle room after that?
 

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Just based off a car I recently purchased...

My dealer told me they could be combined until we sat down to do numbers, and that's when they read the fine print and realized they couldn't be combined. I also called FCA myself and confirmed.

Now to the numbers:

If MSRP is $44,775, then the Affiliate Price should be in the $42,100 neighborhood. The invoice on my car (which I assume is similar) was ~5% below MSRP and then the Affiliate would be ~6% below MSRP.

$42,100 - $3,500 rebates (which I haven't verified, it's all based on where you live) = $38,600.

Now based on my haggling experience, I think you would be able to get the holdback off as well. On my car the holdback was about 3% of MSRP (~$1,300). $38,600 - $1,300 = $37,300.

I would be aggressive and shoot for a purchase price of $37,000 - $37,500.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Interesting, from the Sams club fine print

January:
Offer is additive to most current national, regional and other bonus incentives and is available on Employee Advantage, Dealership Employee Purchase or Affiliate Rewards Program vehicles.


Now:
Offer is additive to most current national, regional and other bonus incentives.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Just based off a car I recently purchased...

My dealer told me they could be combined until we sat down to do numbers, and that's when they read the fine print and realized they couldn't be combined. I also called FCA myself and confirmed.

Now to the numbers:

If MSRP is $44,775, then the Affiliate Price should be in the $42,100 neighborhood. The invoice on my car (which I assume is similar) was ~5% below MSRP and then the Affiliate would be ~6% below MSRP.

$42,100 - $3,500 rebates (which I haven't verified, it's all based on where you live) = $38,600.

Now based on my haggling experience, I think you would be able to get the holdback off as well. On my car the holdback was about 3% of MSRP (~$1,300). $38,600 - $1,300 = $37,300.

I would be aggressive and shoot for a purchase price of $37,000 - $37,500.

Thanks for the info. Dealer gave me a price of 39,300 (seems to be invoice - incentives, no 1% taken off unless the est for invoice is off). I told him he that it seemed high with the given discounts and rebates. He responded that his cost with my rebates is around 38,100 and he needs to make some profit. Now I am pretty sure that the rebates/bonus cash come from the factories end, not the dealers. I do not know about the affiliate program.

Normally I think I'd be happy to find what I want for 5k under MSRP after a few months of searching but I hate the thought of leaving money on the table. Also it is 10 hours away. I'm used to driving a lot so that is not a big deal for me but I want to cover my bases before I do.
 

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Thanks for the info. Dealer gave me a price of 39,300 (seems to be invoice - incentives, no 1% taken off unless the est for invoice is off). I told him he that it seemed high with the given discounts and rebates. He responded that his cost with my rebates is around 38,100 and he needs to make some profit. Now I am pretty sure that the rebates/bonus cash come from the factories end, not the dealers. I do not know about the affiliate program.

Normally I think I'd be happy to find what I want for 5k under MSRP after a few months of searching but I hate the thought of leaving money on the table. Also it is 10 hours away. I'm used to driving a lot so that is not a big deal for me but I want to cover my bases before I do.
I like everyone wants a great deal but we need to be fair at the same time. It's cost millions of dollars to operate a dealership and like it or not they are entitled to make money. Personally I wouldn't drive hours for the best deal, I buy fairly local at a respected dealer who has good service so there is a relationship/incentive to help me should there be a need. Your local dealer will service your car but can make you wait longer than you want to and you have no choice.
Many times saving money cost more in the long run.
Good luck to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I like everyone wants a great deal but we need to be fair at the same time. It's cost millions of dollars to operate a dealership and like it or not they are entitled to make money. Personally I wouldn't drive hours for the best deal, I buy fairly local at a respected dealer who has good service so there is a relationship/incentive to help me should there be a need. Your local dealer will service your car but can make you wait longer than you want to and you have no choice.
Many times saving money cost more in the long run.
Good luck to you.
This is less about the best deal, than it is the right car. I have had a great deal of trouble finding them without sunroofs, which is a deal killer for me.

There is a close to equally equipped 392 shaker, same color about an hour away. I nearly bought it last month. But I prefer the look of the standard scat pack, and paying the extra 1500-2k for the shaker hood that is basically a second choice for me is worth the drive.

Taking back my current Challenger to the dealer for service was an absolute nightmare. If i was ordering a car, I of course would go with a dealer with good service to form a relationship with.

Thanks for the input.
 

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I like everyone wants a great deal but we need to be fair at the same time. It's cost millions of dollars to operate a dealership and like it or not they are entitled to make money. Personally I wouldn't drive hours for the best deal, I buy fairly local at a respected dealer who has good service so there is a relationship/incentive to help me should there be a need. Your local dealer will service your car but can make you wait longer than you want to and you have no choice.
Many times saving money cost more in the long run.
Good luck to you.
There is a small percentage of the population in America that visit this site. To me, that means that people on here talking about getting a good deal for their car are a very small percentage of the people that buy cars. To me that also means that there are a WHOLE lot of people out there paying a WHOLE hell of a lot more for cars than they should. So when one of the few gets a good deal. I say they should take it.

For sure it costs a boat load of money to run a dealership, they also do good by employing people!!

Its illegal for car manufacturers to sell directly to the public!!! WHY??? because car dealers lobbied Congress to pass laws making it illegal. So that's the situation we are in, that's fine, there is not much we can do about it. I over paid by a lot one time for a car. I learned from it, some dont, Ill never pay over invoice for a car again, but there are plenty of people out there who don't know better, and will pay well over MSRP and keep all the dealerships in business.

I say get the best deal you can!!!
 

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Having been in the car business at one point and owned a motorcycle dealership, I have seen both sides of the argument. But, at the end of the day, we live in a free market economy and can choose where, when and how much we want to pay for a car. My advice is wait until the last day of the month, tell them that you ARE buying a car somewhere today, and make them an offer you are comfortable with. The best way to negotiate is to give them a monthly payment/term that is lower than you think they will possibly do. The reason you want to negotiate based on a payment is that it will have to include all the taxes, BS fees, etc. There will be no question what you are really paying or what they are giving you for your trade. If you want to pay cash, just tell them that when you get in the finance office. By then you already know all the real numbers.

When I went to trade my 2015 Mustang on a Challenger, It was on a Saturday, end of the the month, and I told them it was between their car and another Challenger at a different dealership that was advertising 9K off on a leftover 2016. They asked what it would take to sell me their car and I told them to match the current payment I had on the Mustang and I could do it. They said they couldn't do it and I said OK, I don't really need this car anyway. Long story short, The salesman called me Sunday afternoon at 4pm and said the manager said to come get the car. 7200.00 off sticker and 2K more than Carmax would give me on the Mustang. This was on an SXT w/blacktop package, so not an expensive car.

The end of the month doesn't always guarantee the best deal, but if they need to make a quota for a manufacturer bonus, they will lose money on the car (sometimes a lot) to get the bonus- which is usually in the tens of thousands of dollars. Good luck and let us know what happens. Be patient- rebates may be better next month anyways...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the input speedfrk. Dealing with 3 different dealers right now, 2 long distance 1 local. None of them are willing yet to go lower then the affiliate price minus incentives. One of the long distance guys gave me a lowball offer for my car, at least 2k less then it should be. My R/T is in very nice shape and he offered me below the bottom of KBB "Fair". They also charge a $600 dollar doc fee which is about 3x too high. It is a shame, because this guy actually sent me a quote invoice with everything laid out in front of me, with other guys its a struggle to get them to type a number in an email.

Waiting to hear back from the other long distance guy. He is prob my best bet right now, compared to the other I can't see myself driving an hour farther and paying 2k more for Driver Convenience group and navigation I don't want and will never use.
 

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Until it's on the final paper in front of you, don't believe anything you're told.
I went to buy my last Mustang and told the sales guy I wanted every option available, he came back with a great price and as I was looking over the order I noticed something was missing. I said xyz (don't remember item) wasn't listed and he said "you didn't say you wanted that". So the great price became not so great. I don't know what part of EVERY OPTION didn't he understand. So like I said, until it's time to sign on the dotted line it's not set in stone.
Maybe you'll fake better than me.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
First guy came in today with a lower price, 745 (6182 under MSRP) less then his previous quote but a low offer on my trade in, about 1300 short. I countered with the median "good" condition on KBB. My car easily falls under that, it might be closer to very good but going with that. He responded that he could give me that but the price of the car goes back up (5437 under MSRP).

I am going to turn that down, the price on the two vehicles should be independent in my opinion.


The other guys, $600 doc fee dealer sold the car I was looking at yesterday (Sunday?). So he is out.


Edit, he is not budging. He is telling me its a good deal (and its not bad) and that down there dealers are selling Scat Packs for MSRP. That insults me a bit, Hellcats are not even going for MSRP as far as I know.
 

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First guy came in today with a lower price, 745 (6182 under MSRP) less then his previous quote but a low offer on my trade in, about 1300 short. I countered with the median "good" condition on KBB. My car easily falls under that, it might be closer to very good but going with that. He responded that he could give me that but the price of the car goes back up (5437 under MSRP).

I am going to turn that down, the price on the two vehicles should be independent in my opinion.


The other guys, $600 doc fee dealer sold the car I was looking at yesterday (Sunday?). So he is out.


Edit, he is not budging. He is telling me its a good deal (and its not bad) and that down there dealers are selling Scat Packs for MSRP. That insults me a bit, Hellcats are not even going for MSRP as far as I know.
If you plan on keeping it for 5 years, the difference is really only 21/mo. If you are like me and trade every 2-3 years (I put a lot of miles on my cars) then the extra 1300 will be extra money that you are upside down in the car and will have to come up with when you trade again. I never buy a car that I don't get a killer deal on because I'm essentially just "leasing" a car for a couple years but I'm also not the kind of person that gets emotionally attached to a car or brand. Really comes down to how bad you want that car.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I did on my T/A
I think it changed, the fine print used to say it stacked, but no longer does.



EDIT 7/15/17 - Just wanted to update without bumping. Pulled the trigger on a 5.7 R/T fairly well equipped. Guy made a very good price with no haggling, it was less than 20 hours off the truck and I was in and out in less than 3.5 hours. Very happy with it, plenty of power for me. Was never a fan of the blacktop wheels but they not as bad in person and black lugs will likely help. Will re-evaluate at the first tire change.
 
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