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I was going to get a Hellcat, but after watching the bafoonery last year with orders, and refusing to pay an ADM to a company that had literally nothing to do with making the car, I have decided to keep my old girl and give her a good stroking. That should keep me happy for a while and after a couple years Ill plop a S/C on it and be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
i though I saw arrington say they will sell a 2.9 whipple for like $8200 installed... maybe that was a special or something

the 6.4 to 426 is another 4700. 426 long block is almost $10,000.

I wouldnt mind the $4700... but wondering how much the install and everything would run since you got to tear inside the engine

so if i could get the whipple and the 426 short block for around 13,000 then I would jump on that... but im guessing labor is going to kill me.

I wish i knew some firends who would do this for pizza and beers lol
 

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I got a quote for the 6.4 based 426 and the block is 10K, new injectors 550, installation 1520, misc supplies 375, calibration and tune 550, so all that is 12,995. I'm also getting headers and cats so that probably added to the install cost.
 

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I got a quote for the 6.4 based 426 and the block is 10K, new injectors 550, installation 1520, misc supplies 375, calibration and tune 550, so all that is 12,995. I'm also getting headers and cats so that probably added to the install cost.
Wow $13k all together! Is there a core discount where you give them your 392 block?
 

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It much more than just a engine upgrade. It's fuel system, transmission, rear end, driveshaft and tuning. etc etc.
I have been down this road since 2009. I learned the hard way very disappointing results with plenty of broken promises dealing with a inferior shop.
Finding the right shop is #1 . Don't pick a shop on price alone. Ask for former satisfied customer list.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
well, i will be shipping my car to arrington or having southern hot rod do it... both are pretty reputable.

Im just worried about engine cost right now because if thats too much then the tranny and other stuff isnt going to get done anyway.
 

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It's a long block. They will build the engine there and I will bring the car in when the engine is ready. I believe there's a core refund although I didn't ask and it wasn't included in the quote. I'll find out next time I talk to them. I'm happy with the price mainly because I'm going through Arrington and I know they are one of, if not the, top shop. Getting a good product is more important to me than numbers.
 

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I have a 2011 392. Based on research on the forum and talking to shops like ST, Dings and HHP, I will not do any upgrade without a forged motor. I initially wanted a 426 but my builder recommended to stay with the 392 because it has better geometry than the 426. The only weak point on the 392 is the pistons, rings and rods. I'll be doing a 392 forged from HHP, ported heads, KB SC. The cheapest I can go for a reliable 600-700hp machine is 18-20k including dyno and tune. I agree, 10k may get you just the forged motor and you could add the SC later but the 10k would get you essentially the same HP you have now. For me, if I'm going to pull the trigger on the forged motor, I'm going to go all the way and do the full build.

On another note, I thought about just getting a forged kit for my 392. Cost wise, it made more sense to purchase the shortblock (3k kit vs 4-5k shortblock). Besides, with folks like Tony Bischoff out there you get a quality foundation to build your dream car with.

Al
 

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FI vs. Stroker is definitely something you need to think about before deciding.
Both ways will give you power, but will feel quite different. FI will give you more top end horsepower, while a Stroker will give you more bottom end Torque. Personally, i always prefer the torque that comes with a larger motor. A well prepped Stroker will give you a stronger seat of the pants feel on a daily driven street car.
Forced Induction will make lots of horsepower, but you'll feel the benefits at higher RPM. A 392 that is Supercharged can be quite a different experience than a stump pulling 440, and that difference should be taken into consideration when deciding what you really want out of the car.

Personally, if the car is mostly going to see daily driver duty i'd prefer the Stroker.
 

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FI vs. Stroker is definitely something you need to think about before deciding.
Both ways will give you power, but will feel quite different. FI will give you more top end horsepower, while a Stroker will give you more bottom end Torque. Personally, i always prefer the torque that comes with a larger motor. A well prepped Stroker will give you a stronger seat of the pants feel on a daily driven street car.
Forced Induction will make lots of horsepower, but you'll feel the benefits at higher RPM. A 392 that is Supercharged can be quite a different experience than a stump pulling 440, and that difference should be taken into consideration when deciding what you really want out of the car.

Personally, if the car is mostly going to see daily driver duty i'd prefer the Stroker.
There is definitely a different feeling between N/A and FI but your description of FI is just to generic and doesn't apply PD supercharges which give amazing low end torque and a very flat torque curve. My car only runs 6lbs with a very conservative tune and has 500tq at the wheel starting at 3100rpm and staying over 500 till around 5300rpm.
 

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Old thread, I wonder what the OP did. If I had to do it all over again I would have gone stroker first then blower. I now have to get forged internals but I have a blower sitting on top of the engine. LOL

FI is great and I have over 520 lb-ft of torque down below 3500 rpms. The problem is I only use it 5 to 10% of the time. 90% of my time is spirited driving around town hoping I do not go into boost at part throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I contacted modern muscle extreme, arrington and other builders and it turned out those $3000-$4000 426 kits ended up costing almost $12,000 to be installed. And doesn't actually add a lot of horsepower for the dollar.

My next thought was to buy the Mopar 426 all aluminum crate engine for $12,000 and then turn around and sell my 2015 392 engine for $5000 or so to offset the cost... but was warned by several people that the 426 crate engine will end up causing me a lot of headaches and to just stick with my 392 block.

So now I see why 95% of the people just put some drop in pistons and supercharge their 392s... so that's what I am doing.

my wife gets deployed next week so I can ship my challenger off to have my whipple put on while i daily drive my ram.

Even this "simple" route is going to cost me about $14,000 or so... i was even thinking of just saying fudge it and trading my 2015 srt in for a 2016 hellcat and skip all the potential engine problems and other stuff since you can find cats for msrp now unlike last march when i got my 392.

one way or another something will happen in the next 2-3 weeks.... either i put on the whipple, trade it in for a hellcat or keep the engine stock and put the etra money elsewhere.
 

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how Many horror stories have you heard recently? Their are issues with the 6.4 and boost but I think many Of those were either tune related or too much boost... I asked Luke and he said they've never had a failure.
I talked to Luke and he quoted me very similar prices between a 426 stroker kit and a blower (with an appropriately safe amount of boost). To me a 426 stoker has a much bigger "cool factor" than a supercharger. I see superchargers all day long at the dragstrip, but a new Challenger with stroked engine and old school 426 badges would be badass. Also, you can still add a supercharger on top of that, but then you're looking a LOT of torque. How strong are all the other parts on the car?

I've been seriously considering doing that for mine, but I'd only do that if I know I'm going to keep my car forever.
 

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Hoping to relieve this thread, as I'm considering much of the same constraints and limitations as mentioned above. Hate doing the zombie thread thing, but here goes.

First, thanks for everybody posting with experience going down both roads. Already saving me a lot of heartache and headaches.

Running a 2017 A8 Scat Pack. Looking at the same debate internally. Some thoughts.

I have about 26-28k of value to trade in by the time this thing is paid off, and going either direction is going to affect that equity if it's not stock- I'm stuck with the car at a lower value, on top of the money spent on parts.

And the model line is looking at a revamp when? 2018-2020?

I have to move in the fall, and then again in 3-5 years (maybe sooner.) The shipping cost becomes a consideration.

Doing the math, and figuring out that total cost is going to exceed paying off the car, putting away some cash, and putting down the money on a hellcat on the next PCS after this one, nets me the same HP gain, more equity in a newer car, and something with a little more potential to mod out without having do worry as much about taking the motor down to the block.

Either way, waiting until after April to see what Dodge did with the demon, as I suspect that some of the differences between that and the hellcat are going to be relatively interchangeable, to one degree or another. I have serious reservations about the SP trying to mod past that performance level, as others have said, because of the parts from the tranny back, as it seems to me that grenadine the drivetrain from there is the most likely result of building out the motor without also looking at yet another 10k for the driveline, diff, axles, beefing up the tranny, and the driveshaft (including now potentially having to cut space for some of the same.)

Which now drops the value on a vehicle with age, that still has no additional warranty, and could be used to fund a purchase for a hellcat, and work from there.

For now, I'm just going to enjoy the car. Looking at 10k for parts and install from the tranny back, 10k to forge out a motor, and 10k for the blower and tune... and some of those numbers seem conservative to me... the next round of upgrades I think will go into the next level platform.

Shit, that's not even talking rims, tires, brakes, and suspension.

Sigh.

Anybody have a dissenting opinion of how that's gone since the last previous post on the topic?
 

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I would get a hellcat. You'll spend more money with modding with no resell value. Less drive ability, etc.


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It's true. Procharger claims that their P1SC-1 wont hurt your engine with just 7lbs of boost. Thats a false claim. Of coarse theyre going to tell people that to make money. They dont care if you blow a piston,rod whatever. I have a 2017 392 ta with only 4000 miles on it. had the car sine august 2107. Put a P1SC-1 procharger on and ran good up until last week i started noticing car backfiring and bogging when i give it gas. Pulled plugs and every plug on the right side of engine had the side electrode crushed into the center electrode. Other words the plugs had no gap what so ever. the pistons in the 6.4 gen 3 are not that strong. In fact they suck. so I did a compression check on all cylinders and each reading was close to 210 PSI. Now Cylinder#2 is the first piston on right side had barely 30 psi! So im about to take off head to see whats going on but if anybody tells you dont worry about getting forged pistons and that 5,6,7 lbs boost isnt enough to do any damage to your internals,they're full of shit. I Barely even WOT my car. Babied the crap out of it. I have a Diablo I2 tuner with a procharger tune, cooler plugs and thermostat,larger fuel pump and injectors. I always run 93 gas. I just purchased a set of forged drop in piston and rods. If your thinking about adding any king of boost make sure you upgrade your internals.
 

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I don't know anything about ProCharger. But my Kenne Bell has been on my stock bottom end 2010 running 8 pounds of boost since 2010 with absolutely no engine trouble at all.
 
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