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Don't get me started on the better prospects for tire wear...but there is a whole world of tire performance waiting for your discovery just by squaring up your rear wheels to the road (0 deg camber). The stock and standard "pass" specs can be anywhere from -.5 to -1 deg in the rear, and it will stay like that even if you get an alignment. What you need is eccentric camber bushings installed. The thing I didn't know is that, while the camber change is fixed on such a part, they can be installed in such a way to give you any number in between the fixed +/- spec. I'm guessing the mechanic installs them at a certain angular position to increase or decrease the effect of the camber bushing. The caveat...once the part is pressed in, the setting is permanent. There is no "adjustment" after that, aside from removing them.
Now with that out of the way, my behind the wheel feedback...
You will immediately notice the improvement in grip in the back, naturally because you are finally using the entire contact patch of the tire, instead of the just the inner half of the tread doing all the work as it would in stock config. From the seat of the pants, I would say my cold weather traction with the new rear camber (i.e., no camber) is as good as my warm weather traction with the stock rear camber.
On launch, I can still break them loose with enough throttle, but it takes a decent amount of throttle, now. When you take off with full rolling contact, you are going forward with great urgency (like you are about to take the virginity of the space-time matrix right in front of you). When you take-off with some wheel slip, you are still going forward with great urgency. You will hear the engine note is dealing with a good amount of load while it is slipping (instead of the more usual free revving, like the tires just gave up entirely). The take-off while slipping is a bit squirmy, too, so pilot that steering wheel.
Though, I don't know if that is more about my nearly worn tires being shaped to the previous camber condition, or if it is just a natural artifact of running 0 deg camber. Could be some of both, too. If you figure, a slipping launch with full tire contact means you are using 100% of traction just for thrust. So any lateral control is pretty well out the window...there's no traction headroom left at that point for anything else.
On hard cornering, the rear-oriented powerslides are less readily graceful (maybe you want this or not). Either the rear tires are hooked or they are not. If you have power-on at the moment, then they will surely hook with less power, which halts the lateral motion in the rear. The rear will hook into your turning line as if you gently nudged a tire against a curb.
If you weren't power-on and the rear is sliding, you are going to keep sliding, because there is no "emergency" traction that is going to show-up to save you...so better hope you didn't overcook it too much, or you have plenty of clearance to accommodate your slide. That's what I think the stock rear camber is about on these cars. The rear will break away early, but it still has more traction to harness as the body leans and the camber gain aligns more of the tire to the pavement. So at some later point, it will take a lock after the initial slide. It's safer, but also less intuitive about where your real limit is.
U'ees with some flamboyant powerslide are raw and aggressive. You keep the power on to continue the rotation, but all along, the tires are very determined to regain a lock with rolling traction. When they do, you are going to go forward whether you have completed your U'ee or not...again, the rear will tell you so as if you just nudged the tire against a curb.
This car is more raw and brutal than ever, and I'm just rolling on all-season performance tires.
If you have stagger in your tires widths, you may need less after this mod. 
There was one other guy on here that also has the mod (for the same objective of 0 camber), and he is on a manual, as well. I don't recall what his username was, though. I invite all who have done so to share their observations, of course. For the new owners in the crowd, you may want to consider this even before you start playing around with different tire brands.
One totally unintended benefit...I suspect my fuel economy got a little bump, too. I was expecting a small hit from rolling resistance of a full contact patch, but by the meter numbers (which may or may not represent the true value), I am effortlessly hitting 30 mpg on instantaneous readings while in mds mode. I'm not saying I'm actually hitting 30 mpg, but whatever number it really is, it will surely be better than the numbers I was hitting before. I was never just effortlessly dancing on the the number 30, previously, so "something" must have got better.
Now with that out of the way, my behind the wheel feedback...
You will immediately notice the improvement in grip in the back, naturally because you are finally using the entire contact patch of the tire, instead of the just the inner half of the tread doing all the work as it would in stock config. From the seat of the pants, I would say my cold weather traction with the new rear camber (i.e., no camber) is as good as my warm weather traction with the stock rear camber.
On launch, I can still break them loose with enough throttle, but it takes a decent amount of throttle, now. When you take off with full rolling contact, you are going forward with great urgency (like you are about to take the virginity of the space-time matrix right in front of you). When you take-off with some wheel slip, you are still going forward with great urgency. You will hear the engine note is dealing with a good amount of load while it is slipping (instead of the more usual free revving, like the tires just gave up entirely). The take-off while slipping is a bit squirmy, too, so pilot that steering wheel.
On hard cornering, the rear-oriented powerslides are less readily graceful (maybe you want this or not). Either the rear tires are hooked or they are not. If you have power-on at the moment, then they will surely hook with less power, which halts the lateral motion in the rear. The rear will hook into your turning line as if you gently nudged a tire against a curb.
U'ees with some flamboyant powerslide are raw and aggressive. You keep the power on to continue the rotation, but all along, the tires are very determined to regain a lock with rolling traction. When they do, you are going to go forward whether you have completed your U'ee or not...again, the rear will tell you so as if you just nudged the tire against a curb.
This car is more raw and brutal than ever, and I'm just rolling on all-season performance tires.
There was one other guy on here that also has the mod (for the same objective of 0 camber), and he is on a manual, as well. I don't recall what his username was, though. I invite all who have done so to share their observations, of course. For the new owners in the crowd, you may want to consider this even before you start playing around with different tire brands.
One totally unintended benefit...I suspect my fuel economy got a little bump, too. I was expecting a small hit from rolling resistance of a full contact patch, but by the meter numbers (which may or may not represent the true value), I am effortlessly hitting 30 mpg on instantaneous readings while in mds mode. I'm not saying I'm actually hitting 30 mpg, but whatever number it really is, it will surely be better than the numbers I was hitting before. I was never just effortlessly dancing on the the number 30, previously, so "something" must have got better.