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Changing my rear sway bar which means lowering down the rear cradle. That made me
Think it might be worth changing the rear cradle bushings to energy suspension or whiteline bushings.

Any opinions on if this is worth doing?

Thanks
 

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I don't know what the best option is here, but I think wheel hop has a lot to do with bushings. It's something to look at but I don't know when the best time to do it is.
 

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I spoke with Petty's Garage about some suspension options. In what turned out to be a lengthy and very informative discussion with a Mr. Will Cheek. To narrow it down to a point with respect to this thread. Yes do bushings at the same time as your rear sway. It will cost extra money for the bushings but you will save a lot of time in labor by doing them both at once vs two different times. He recommends it and I trust the Petty's Garage guys to know what they're talking about.
 
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all are good.. i heard pedders went bankrupt so i would dbl check before you buy from them.

as far as doing it.. i have read up on this and it is VERY VERY LABOR intensive if you tackle it yourself.

you have to drop the cradle out completely.. then with a make shift press cut the center of the bushings out and press the outter race OUT. then the new ones just push in. now people say they have taken a saw zall cut slits in the outer race and a air chisel to take them out.. it is a all day or couple day deal.. not easy.. so if you are doing it yourself be prepaired.

i myself and looking at doing it and trying to find a good way to get the bushings out.

chris
 
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You can change the sway bar without dropping the cradle. With the car on a lift (or jack stands with some form of additional safety bracing), and the wheels removed (suspension hanging) you can snake the sway bar out (old) and snake the new one in. Important - tape the ends of the old and new bars about 10" from the ends (thick - to protect paint). A second set of hands is very helpful. When I say "snake", it's about seventy five moves for each, but does not require you to drop the cradle.
You didn't mention if your car is auto or 6-speed. If it's auto get a set of Speedlogix/Razors edge rear tension arms to go with the sway bar and be done with it.
In your case I hope it's an auto. The previous information is unfortunately very accurate about cradle bushing replacement. Been there, don't even want to think about it unless yours is a 6-speed.
To my knowledge, Pedders is no longer in business, Whiteline made Pedders bushings.
 

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Is it not easier to just drop the cradle?
 

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You can lower the cradle ~ 4" to gain more access to unbolt the inner sway bar bushing brackets and remove the sway bar.

The exhuast, diff are all attached to the cradle, so when you lower it they are hung off of the unit and lower with it.

You do have to unbolt the hangers for the rear resonators (and support the left side end to avoid kinking @ the union).

Also unbolting the brake hard line brackets will give you more leeway to avoid pulling on the brake hoses and you can unbolt the upper shock mounts.

I've not changed the cradle bushings, so that technique isn't one I'm familiar with.
 
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One of the reasons I did not want to go down the road of dropping or unscrewing the cradle is because there is an alignment concern when doing this. The cradle is mounted with four pointed bolts into unseen floating nuts (the reason for the pointed bolts is so you can "find" them with the bolts). The cradle location must be marked - front to rear AND side to side, prior to removal. If this is not done, it is more than likely that the cradle will be out of alignment when replaced, thus the rear and the axles as the mounting nuts "float" until tightened.
 

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Mine is a 6 speed. I just figured now might be a good time to change them and be done with it.
Just saw your post about being a 6-speed...........OK, you need this as one of the things to protect your suspension, rear, and axles, from the dreaded "wheel hop", but only if you are going to drive the car as it was meant to be.
The posts about information from The Petty organization, and the level of difficulty are accurate. This is a job for a professional, you can't do this on your back. I helped a professional do it on my car with the cradle in place. Six hours of Sawzall and air hammer with pointed chisel. NON STOP, on a lift. Second time with cradle, rear, axles removed, and driveshaft disconnected, with a donated, specialized "bushing removal tool" and big impact gun. Got two out (same time as cradle in car - NOT counting the removal items) then tool broke. Back to Sawzall and impact with pointed chisel. It is defiantly worth doing, along with the sway bar, and the Speedlogix/Razors edge rear tension arms. If you can find someone to do this, who has done it before - do it. If someone takes the job who has never done it, whatever they told you they wanted for the job, they will want more when it's done. Whoever does it, make sure they mark the cradle location prior to removal...GOOD LUCK!
 

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If you do this job, I would also change out the rear differential mount bushings. from energy suspension 5.1115 g. They are made from polyurethane. There is a vender on here that sells solid aluminum for drag race only..
 

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Thanks fhurricane, got the polys after our last conversation here. Sitting on by back seat...in my hat! Will get to it eventually!
Vendor is SPEEDLOGIX - POLYS COST ABOUT $42.
 

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I had Petty's Garage change mine out and there is NO wheel hop! My car feels more solid. if you can afford it I would do it! We can also do it at Arrington and save you some dough.
 

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I had Petty's Garage change mine out and there is NO wheel hop! My car feels more solid. if you can afford it I would do it! We can also do it at Arrington and save you some dough.
Did you happen to watch how Petty's shop removed the bushings? How does Arrington do it? OK if you don't want to give up any "trade secrets". Can you tell the interested members what Arrington charges for bushings and installation? Thanks.
 

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Did you happen to watch how Petty's shop removed the bushings? How does Arrington do it? OK if you don't want to give up any "trade secrets". Can you tell the interested members what Arrington charges for bushings and installation? Thanks.

I didn't get a chance to watch how they did it. I do know you need a pretty good press to do it. I would also suggest taking the whole rear of the car out to do it. That's what Petty did. Give the guys a call at the shop at Arrington and they can quote you. That is above my head. I just develop products.
 

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Thanks very much Venom Bee for your Information. This topic is one which is often discussed on this forum. It is extremely helpful to the members here, that the cradle bushing issue is at the heart of the resolution for the elimination of "wheel hop". The Petty Organization was the first to guide me (back in '09) to this reality. In the case of my '09, more was necessary, but a great start. As production years moved forward, Dodge made changes which helped, but apparently did not cure it totally. Your (Arrington association) along with The Petty Organization's recommendations should allow the forum members to make informed, accurate suspension decisions in relation to this situation. Thanks for the expertise.
 

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Thanks very much Venom Bee for your Information. This topic is one which is often discussed on this forum. It is extremely helpful to the members here, that the cradle bushing issue is at the heart of the resolution for the elimination of "wheel hop". The Petty Organization was the first to guide me (back in '09) to this reality. In the case of my '09, more was necessary, but a great start. As production years moved forward, Dodge made changes which helped, but apparently did not cure it totally. Your (Arrington association) along with The Petty Organization's recommendations should allow the forum members to make informed, accurate suspension decisions in relation to this situation. Thanks for the expertise.
No problem. Both shops do great work and you can't go wrong with either one. Petty is a little more expensive but you are also kinda paying for a name to work on your car and who knows you could run into the King himself and get him to sign your car. At Arrington there is all the technology and the latest upgrades from Dodge but both shop do excellent work. Arrington and Petty are in a partnership as far as Arrington doing all the tunes supercharger and fuel upgrades for Petty's cars. As far as the cradle bushings go you will be happy that you did it when you can launch your car the way you want to and the way a Challenger should!
 
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