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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It says it take 1.7 quarts to fill it up but after about 1.5 mine started overflowing so I guess it has to be full right?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
******bump
 

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I would think so IF your car is perfectly level. Are you draining and refilling or just topping off? Do you already have 48,000 miles on your car? That is the first recommended interval for fluid replacement if ...


48,000 Miles (80,000 km) or 48 Months Maintenance Service Schedule

❏ Change the rear axle fluid if using your vehicle for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet,
or frequent trailer towing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Draining and refilling. I have 52,000 on it.
 

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It says it take 1.7 quarts to fill it up but after about 1.5 mine started overflowing so I guess it has to be full right?

Thank goodness this is about your car. Judging from your thread title I was thinking it was either going to be about the stomach flu or you had a good reason to see a doctor. :bigthumb:
 

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Rock on...everything still ok on that thing? That's a fare bit of mileage.
Yep everything is still as good as the day I drove it off the lot.
 

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Confused as to the "monthly" business, it's a sealed diff, why would how long it's in their matter if it's synthetic? I have a 08 and only 10k..
 
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Your oil is contaminated the moment you put it in there, even if you drive very little. Two quarts of lube is cheap insurance.

Besides, I don't think the unit is sealed.
 

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Dont forget the small bottle of additive....

I just had mine done at the dealer last month prior to putting the SRT into hibernation and they reminded me of the additive needed.
 

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I read a lot of posts about adding the friction modifier, (LS additive).
Check the fluid you are using to see if it already contains the LS additive.
Most synthetic fluids, (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Red Line, Amsoil, etc.) already contain the friction modifier.
Adding more will only cause slippage of the clutches and cause premature failure.
We are talking about 2 quarts and 2 plugs to drain and change.
Very cheap maintenance.
Also the rear has a vent plug, so it is not sealed.
Moisture can easily build up and mix with the fluid.

Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I used to Mobil 1 with LS additive and I didn't add any friction modifier. It seems to be doing fine.
 

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I used to Mobil 1 with LS additive and I didn't add any friction modifier. It seems to be doing fine.
That's the point I was trying to make.
No need to add any LS additive.

Brad
 

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20/20

2010 R/T 6sp. Changed rear diff. fluid today. Went with Mobil 1. At just UNDER 4,000 miles the oil coming out looked like watered down gray house paint. Quite a bit of residue on the magnetic drain bolt. For $20 worth of syn. oil and 20 min. time its well worth it.
 

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Haha, I just started another thread on this topic today! I changed my rear diff fluid today (28K miles), and went with Royal Purple, and was concerned about not adding the additive, but now I know I'm ok.

Thanks ChallengerTalk.com!

Also, I thought it was a good idea to change it earlier, due to initial buildup of shavings and what-not from break-in? Mine definitely seems less "notchy" after the change...
 
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