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I posted this else, didn’t realize there was a suspension specific thread.

I have a 2015 r/t 6 speed. 125 shot nitrous, long tubes, mids and tune. Car also has the stock STP.

So far I have done nothing to the rear. What mods can I do to get more power transferred to the rear? Will a new axle help, rear sway? Anything else? I drive this car daily, I don’t really corner hard, and planning on hitting the track through the summer as well. Want I be able to run well on the straightaways.


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I posted this else, didn’t realize there was a suspension specific thread.

I have a 2015 r/t 6 speed. 125 shot nitrous, long tubes, mids and tune. Car also has the stock STP.

So far I have done nothing to the rear. What mods can I do to get more power transferred to the rear? Will a new axle help, rear sway? Anything else? I drive this car daily, I don’t really corner hard, and planning on hitting the track through the summer as well. Want I be able to run well on the straightaways.


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If your car is the stock height, i feel your goal should be minimizing wheel hop to keep the tires planted. Look in the direction of poly bushings or Tension arms . Speedlogix has some good options i think
 

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Confusing as to what you're doing -- do you mean drag racing or road track? Because if you're getting serious about hitting the road track all summer, you want to build for whatever class you're in so that you don't get bumped up into the wrong class. NO FUN racing with people who are all faster than you because you put on a 4-point strut brace.


Also important because a lot of it is tire-related on the Challengers. If you're talking about straight line power to the rear, you want 17" or 18" wheels with drag radials or slicks preferably. If you're road racing, you need a stiffer sidewall for cornering so the tire options are more limited and you try to make up for it more with chassis bracing. Heck, the chassis bracing is good for drag racing too! Throw on some strut bars and subframe connectors (as long as your class allows them) and you will notice quite a difference.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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If you want to get rid of drive-train slop (make sure you get rid of the clutch delay valve), you can get a 1 piece drive shaft and a differential brace (pretty much eliminates rear diff movement) but it does zilch for wheel hop. BTW I did not notice any difference in rear diff noise after installing the diff brace.

At a minimum you will need to upgrade all your bushings for a stiffer compound (as others have suggested) or go solid cradle bushings. Once you start getting better traction you might want to consider upgrading the half-shafts.

FYI a brand new 3.90 diff with limited slip can be had for under $800...whereas the 3.09 LSD is about double the cost, probably due the the HC guys switching to the 3.09. :dunno:
 

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Not at all, but than again my car is dropped,
so the angle of the driveshaft is more inline with the rear differential.

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You don't have a live axle where raising and lowering of the car changes drive shaft angle, with IRS the center section/pumpkin/differential is mounted in one position to the relationship of the drive shaft and transmission.

The only angles that change from raising the car or lowering it is the half shafts that are left and right side of the differential. Driveshaft angle does not change.

Only way to change driveshaft angle you must physically lower the differential mounting points or lower/raise transmission tail shaft mount/crossmember.
 

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You don't have a live axle where raising and lowering of the car changes drive shaft angle, with IRS the center section/pumpkin/differential is mounted in one position to the relationship of the drive shaft and transmission.

The only angles that change from raising the car or lowering it is the half shafts that are left and right side of the differential. Driveshaft angle does not change.

Only way to change driveshaft angle you must physically lower the differential mounting points or lower/raise transmission tail shaft mount/crossmember.
Ok, didn't quite know that, learned something new. Thanks for explaining that.

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On a side note, the brace does prevent the pinion side of the diff from torquing up during hard acceleration and thus keeps a more consistent prop shaft angle.
 
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