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Discussion Starter #221
Ya I am starting to learn to pick my battles
Got quoted 215 at the local dealership to work on the ac assuming there are no leaks. I’m guessing it will cost more. I could buy new gauges and all the free on I would need for that much
 

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All salvage cars are not body damage. Theft recovery,usually engines missing, vandalism,stripped. So many things make them salvage. Again comes back to information.
While you're technically correct, I can see in the damn pictures that the car wasn't vandalized or stripped...
 

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What kind would you recommend? I was actually thinking hey! It would be a good time to fix the big hole in my dash 😂. I have thought about it a lot and can’t seem to think of any solution besides replacing it or getting a dash mat to cover it.
Haha! I did figure you had some solution for the dash hole! I have used infinity 3.5" coaxial speakers in there and, with a sound processor on aftermarket amps, hae been able to get some really nice sound. There is a thread on here by with someone doing a newer setup. You can spend a ton of money, but generally, good quality Infinity, JBL, Kenwood speakers will be a huge improvement. You can spend more on JL, audio Physics, etc., but that would blow your budget. Personally I used Infinity Reference series speakers and a tuner in my '12 Charger to upgrade teh 6-speaker system. Sound pretty good. Better than the Alpine 9 speaker system that is in my 2019 SPWB. That is a future project for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #228 (Edited)
Well just got off the phone with the dealership and they said they misquoted me and it was closer to four hundred. Typical. So I ordered some 1234, some adopters for my dads 134 gauges, some oil and a vacuum pump. I guess we are going to learn how to charge an ac
 

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Yes i understand the sticker. What confuses you about it? The weight, 1.54 is the amount of freon that goes in. Pag is the freon oil type. 3 part #'s are listed depending on the weight you want to run. Its like engine oil for different temps. Surprised it doesnt tell you how much oil. What all did you remove change? How did you vacuum it?, machine or small vac pump? The ac machines will suck the oil out of the system when recovering and the small hand held pumps will not.
 

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Ac isnt that hard. High side of the guage is your friend. Use the blue knob( cold side) to add freon. Watch the high side. Look for the RAD fan to come on high. Then charge only til it hits 200. Low will be 30-40 and high will be 200 at idle. Ac will be ice cold. During winter months ill slightly under charge here so when summer hits ac pressures will be 225-230 and 40-45. Do all at idle with interior fan on high, recirculation button on and rad fan on high.
 

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Discussion Starter #231
Yes i understand the sticker. What confuses you about it? The weight, 1.54 is the amount of freon that goes in. Pag is the freon oil type. 3 part #'s are listed depending on the weight you want to run. Its like engine oil for different temps. Surprised it doesnt tell you how much oil. What all did you remove change? How did you vacuum it?, machine or small vac pump? The ac machines will suck the oil out of the system when recovering and the small hand held pumps will not.
I wanted to know how much freon and oil to add. Wasn’t sure if these systems were very temperamental these new ac systems were. I just installed a new condenser on the ac side. I was also curious how the compressor would kick on since I doubt it kicks on now
 

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Just convert it to 134. You will like it much better.
System holds 6oz of oil. But its spread out thru whole system. Ive got the machine that pulls all the oil out when i recover the freon. For you id put 4oz in it to be safe. Little extra in the system isnt going to hurt it. When you vacuum let the low side gauge drop as far down into the negative vacuum pump will pull. Then wait. Watch the guage with pump off. Should stay in one spot. When your sure no leaks add the freon. First can will kick in compressor. It will cycle on/off. Keep adding til you see high side get to 200. It will rise fast so watch it. Make sure rad fan is on high. Use the freon cans that are about the size of a 12 oz beer can. Get 3 of them. Walmart here sells them cheap, not sure of where you are in the winter. Auto parts store will screw you. Other option for pag oil is in the pressurized can, just use it first before you add freon.
 

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Discussion Starter #233 (Edited)
Just convert it to 134. You will like it much better.
System holds 6oz of oil. But its spread out thru whole system. Ive got the machine that pulls all the oil out when i recover the freon. For you id put 4oz in it to be safe. Little extra in the system isnt going to hurt it. When you vacuum let the low side gauge drop as far down into the negative vacuum pump will pull. Then wait. Watch the guage with pump off. Should stay in one spot. When your sure no leaks add the freon. First can will kick in compressor. It will cycle on/off. Keep adding til you see high side get to 200. It will rise fast so watch it. Make sure rad fan is on high. Use the freon cans that are about the size of a 12 oz beer can. Get 3 of them. Walmart here sells them cheap, not sure of where you are in the winter. Auto parts store will screw you. Other option for pag oil is in the pressurized can, just use it first before you add freon.
Thank you that’s what I needed to know! I figured 134 was better just like 12 was better yet but I didn’t know it was possible to convert. For any onereading this I understand the basics of how an ac system works. I understood about half of what @Chllngrswpr said. Some of it will make sense when I start doing it and the rest I am going to have to look up
 

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The two refrigerants work under similar pressures, but not the same throughout the temp range. It's illegal to replace 1234YF with 134a, while it certainly doesn't stop people. The 1234YF requires certain matched oil as it is more corrosive. It appears 1234yf oil is compatible with 134a (but not vice-versa ).

But apparently you can make the change if you get the correct adapter fittings. I'm not sure how you determine the fill amount though as the amount on the tag wouldn't apply to 134a? Underfilling or overfilling will affect the efficiency

A Guy
 

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Convert it, ive got a few running around here done. Oil is compatible. Just watch the high side gauge. 200and youll be ok. It will actually be a little colder with the 134. .
1. Vacuum
2. Add oil
3. Charge til gauge reads 200.
Done.
 

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I'm late to the thread ..... WOW! Great job of sticking to your dream. Looks like you're getting real close to being on the road with a 100% complete Challenger T/A.

If there's a local Vo-Tech high school, they might be able/willing to do the AC charge as a teaching moment for their students.

BTW .... I'd stick with the 1234yf simply because that's what a shop will try to use to charge the system in the future. Thinking long-term .... When you pass the car down, there's no guarantee that your family will (a) want to do the work themselves and (b) won't know/remember that you changed the type of freon.

Again .... awesome build. Regardless of title status, you'll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. And your family will have the story to tell for all time .... "Remember when Tyler rebuilt that wrecked Challenger T/A!"
 

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I'm late to the thread ..... WOW! Great job of sticking to your dream. Looks like you're getting real close to being on the road with a 100% complete Challenger T/A.

If there's a local Vo-Tech high school, they might be able/willing to do the AC charge as a teaching moment for their students.

BTW .... I'd stick with the 1234yf simply because that's what a shop will try to use to charge the system in the future. Thinking long-term .... When you pass the car down, there's no guarantee that your family will (a) want to do the work themselves and (b) won't know/remember that you changed the type of freon.

Again .... awesome build. Regardless of title status, you'll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. And your family will have the story to tell for all time .... "Remember when Tyler rebuilt that wrecked Challenger T/A!"
good point as 134a is being phased out - so if it needed additional refrigerant in the future, it going to cost more if its available.

Most any reputable place would test the existing refrigerant prior to adding to make sure of what's in the system
 
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