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Discussion Starter #641
Sorry ... I don't know if it's the same as the stock knob. I bought their adapter to put their ball on the Barton stick.

I've thought about doing the valve delete. I only haven't done it because I'm not bothered by the stock operation of the clutch. My days of trying to ripoff amazing 60-foot times are way in my rear view mirror.
For me I want the purist experience especially with this car. I like feeling the feedback of the car and any mistake made by me not by the car trying to drive for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #642
Put on the Barton shifter today. It was an experience and actually had to cut part of it for it to fit properly. The oem was very sloppy around the two front bushings and the Barton fits very snug. It also takes a lot more effort to shift and I can see how a weighted shift knob would make it easier to shift but not necessary. I also had the windows tinted.
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Why did you have to cut the Barton. I was able to install mine without any modification at all. It’s a great unit by the way and once you are used to it, it shifts like butter.


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Discussion Starter #644
Why did you have to cut the Barton. I was able to install mine without any modification at all. It’s a great unit by the way and once you are used to it, it shifts like butter.


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maybe I didn’t have to but I was hungover and didn’t have any directions.
 

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Those centering springs will loosen up a little (but not too much) over the next couple of weeks. And, yes, I think the heavier Speed Dawg Shift Knob did improve the feel -- at least it did for me.

I didn't have to trim anything at all when I installed mine. Could be that everything isn't exactly where it was before the accident leading to your amazing rebuild. By the way (and too late now) but WorkPlayDrive put up an excellent "how to" video on YouTube of his installation. I had it playing on my iPad throughout my installation.
 

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Looks like the slide on part with the bolt sticking up is installed backwards. The black bolt heads should face the front of the car. You might notice some noise.


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It takes about 500 miles of use for thebushings on the Barton to wear in (where the shift / select rod attaches) and its gets smoother. Less "chunk - chunk" is how I describe it

and you get used to the centering springs - that alone makes it so much more positive as it self- centers in the 3 - 4 gate and you have to pull towards the 1 - 2 gate or push to the 5 - 6 gate with the intention of shifting in those ranges.

Its a far cry from the compliant bushings in the OEM linkage. The '09 - '14 were even more soft bushings and worse feel for precision (not to mention the long throws)
 

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Discussion Starter #648
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The problem I had was these two pieces coming out of the back of the shifter were stuck under the floor and I’m guessing normally it is suppose to be able to clear the floor.
 

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Looks like youve got it under control. If its in the car and shifting i wouldnt worry about the trimming. Do you like how it shifts now? Was the shifter worth the $$ or would it have been the same to make new bushings for the stock shifter?
Love the tint my friend,car looks amazing and you should get a pat on the back for a quality job.
 

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Discussion Starter #650
Looks like youve got it under control. If its in the car and shifting i wouldnt worry about the trimming. Do you like how it shifts now? Was the shifter worth the $$ or would it have been the same to make new bushings for the stock shifter?
Love the tint my friend,car looks amazing and you should get a pat on the back for a quality job.
Well thank you. Your project is a lot more impressive to me and I can’t wait to see a 440 in it. There was at least 3/4 inch of play in the bushings on the old shifter. If you could eliminate all that play it definitely would make a big improvement. I haven’t broken in the Barton yet but there is a noticeable difference on the amount of time it takes to get in gear. I was already in third and my brain couldn’t process it fast enough. It will take some time getting the timing right like @Wizard of Iz said.
 

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Well thank you. Your project is a lot more impressive to me and I can’t wait to see a 440 in it. There was at least 3/4 inch of play in the bushings on the old shifter. If you could eliminate all that play it definitely would make a big improvement. I haven’t broken in the Barton yet but there is a noticeable difference on the amount of time it takes to get in gear. I was already in third and my brain couldn’t process it fast enough. It will take some time getting the timing right like @Wizard of Iz said.
I'll admit that I was having second thoughts about installing the Barton after the first few days. It was so different and so tight and almost too engineered for my daily commute in city traffic.

Then ... I took the car on a trip that included a run on The Tail of the Dragon in NC/TN and I fully understood (a) why I got a 6-speed and (b) how awesome the Barton is compared to the stock shifter.

And when I got the Speed Dawg Shift Knob for Christmas a few months later, the clouds parted and the sun came out. :)
 

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It will be a bit before i swap out my engine again. Been trying to figure out what to do about rear diff. I want lower than the 390 gear. Trying to figure out the drive shaft issues with making the swap. Dont want to switch from the 6 spd with the 440. Always something when building a car.
 

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And when I got the Speed Dawg Shift Knob for Christmas a few months later, the clouds parted and the sun came out. :)
The Speed Dawg Shift knobs are truly amazing. I couldn’t imagine my Barton without it.


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I just don’t see how a shift knob is life changing!
It is when you drag race a manual and you have it paired with a Barton. I have my line lock integrated into the knob. It makes a hell of a difference for launching. Just depends on how to you drive your car really and what you are attempting to achieve.


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Discussion Starter #656 (Edited)
It is when you drag race a manual and you have it paired with a Barton. I have my line lock integrated into the knob. It makes a hell of a difference for launching. Just depends on how to you drive your car really and what you are attempting to achieve.


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I have been trying to figure out my line lock but it doesn’t seem to work. Do you need an auxiliary bottom for it to work on manuals or am I just doing it wrong. The same with launch control. I also haven’t messed with it much
 

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Discussion Starter #657
I have started to miss doing burnouts and going around corners sideway thanks to the 275 Nittos 555. I constantly see 275/55/20s for sale being taken off pickups for 20-50 bucks a tire. I can’t help to think they would work perfect for raising hell but they might be a bit too redneck for the car. There is someone who did it on here 275/55/20 it worked
 

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It doesn't look bad...

A Guy
 

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"Put on the Barton shifter today. It was an experience and actually had to cut part of it for it to fit properly.
not sure what went wrong inserting quote.

Anyways, Tyler you did a lot of work and deserve the recognition and congratulatory remarks for resurrecting your car.

That being said, this is a good example of why most people should steer clear of rebuilding a salvage vehicle though. Everything is tweaked and forces of the impact have permanently distorted even some of the smallest details. A such, you just can't really ever get the vehicle completely right. It's possible that you won't realize any unfavorable characteristics, though not likely in the long term. Rarely driven specialty vehicles like your challenger are reasonable candidates for refurbishment, but daily driven primary transportation vehicles will show their flaws sooner rather than later, ie rapid suspension wear, tire wear, drivetrain wear, handling issues, all or some eventually show up and are in need of frequent replacement. Your car, being a second and fun car for you, likely won't see the mileage demands that others will.

I too have thought about going down this path in the past, buying a vehicle that was not really part of my budget. Eventually, others with more experience in the matter really convinced me of the flip side of Salvage vehicle resurrection.

I see lots of thee super desirable dream cars for sale as salvage vehicles and, while i don't mean to rain on your parade (honestly most people could never ever fix a car and get it back on the road the way you did), congrats to you, well done. I just want to mention that your results are not common, at all.

Every misty eyed teenager across the country that has read your posts here idolize what you've accomplished.

So my point is, if you see that dream car listed for sale and the price is less than normally asked, pay attention to the title as it's likely a salvage vehicle. Minor accidents don't result in a car being totaled and branded salvage. The people that inspect and assess damage are experienced and they know all to well what is repairable and what is not, as well as what can be repaired and be safe or not and what is cost effective to repair and what is not.

Again no slight is intended towards you or your amazing accomplishment.
 
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