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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I'm still cleaning up after my second dead battery incident. I still can't get the windows recalibrated using any of the prescribed methods listed in the various threads, so I'll keep playing with that.

However, just like the last time I had a dead battery, I lost the remote start feature again. Last time I took it to the dealer, and they mentioned something in the paper work about reprogramming that "feature" back in (see my posts on page 3 of this thread) :

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/woke-up-stone-dead-battery-morning-65980/index3.html

The car is out of warranty now, and the thought of a trip back down to Tom Matson in Seattle gives me the willies.

Q: Can anyone confirm that the remote start is a programed feature that will go away if you lose power to any of the computers for an extended time (like having a stone dead battery for any length of time) ?

If so, is there any other alternative to getting the Remote Start feature re-enabled, and/or re-programed back in ?

If not, maybe I'll just learn to forget about that feature and live without it? Probably safer anyhow since I park the car in the garage, and there's been at least one incident where I bent over in the garage with my key in the pocket, and the car started in the garage (with the door closed), and I think one incident outside too.

Anyone have experience with Remote Start and dead batteries (and how to get it back after a dead battery) ?
 

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So I'm still cleaning up after my second dead battery incident. I still can't get the windows recalibrated using any of the prescribed methods listed in the various threads, so I'll keep playing with that.

However, just like the last time I had a dead battery, I lost the remote start feature again. Last time I took it to the dealer, and they mentioned something in the paper work about reprogramming that "feature" back in (see my posts on page 3 of this thread) :

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/woke-up-stone-dead-battery-morning-65980/index3.html

The car is out of warranty now, and the thought of a trip back down to Tom Matson in Seattle gives me the willies.

Q: Can anyone confirm that the remote start is a programed feature that will go away if you lose power to any of the computers for an extended time (like having a stone dead battery for any length of time) ?

If so, is there any other alternative to getting the Remote Start feature re-enabled, and/or re-programed back in ?

If not, maybe I'll just learn to forget about that feature and live without it? Probably safer anyhow since I park the car in the garage, and there's been at least one incident where I bent over in the garage with my key in the pocket, and the car started in the garage (with the door closed), and I think one incident outside too.

Anyone have experience with Remote Start and dead batteries (and how to get it back after a dead battery) ?
I live in Tacoma. Tom Matson is in Auburn and the best place to start is to look in the owners manual. I will check mine and see if it needs to go back to the dealer. I had my battery die one time it was because I used the push start feature and left it in the run position. I got the chimes when I opened the door but could not figure out what was going on. I had just bought the car and was not real up on the push button start.
 

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2012 challenger srt
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So I'm still cleaning up after my second dead battery incident. I still can't get the windows recalibrated using any of the prescribed methods listed in the various threads, so I'll keep playing with that.

However, just like the last time I had a dead battery, I lost the remote start feature again. Last time I took it to the dealer, and they mentioned something in the paper work about reprogramming that "feature" back in (see my posts on page 3 of this thread) :

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/woke-up-stone-dead-battery-morning-65980/index3.html

The car is out of warranty now, and the thought of a trip back down to Tom Matson in Seattle gives me the willies.

Q: Can anyone confirm that the remote start is a programed feature that will go away if you lose power to any of the computers for an extended time (like having a stone dead battery for any length of time) ?

If so, is there any other alternative to getting the Remote Start feature re-enabled, and/or re-programed back in ?

If not, maybe I'll just learn to forget about that feature and live without it? Probably safer anyhow since I park the car in the garage, and there's been at least one incident where I bent over in the garage with my key in the pocket, and the car started in the garage (with the door closed), and I think one incident outside too.

Anyone have experience with Remote Start and dead batteries (and how to get it back after a dead battery) ?
Do you have the keyless start. If you do try getting in the car with the fob. Push the start button through one complete cycle with your foot off the brake. Then get out close the door lock the car and press the remote start twice with in five seconds and see if that works. I have not checked my EVIC to see if its one of the features you can turn on and off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Do you have the keyless start. If you do try getting in the car with the fob. Push the start button through one complete cycle with your foot off the brake. Then get out close the door lock the car and press the remote start twice with in five seconds and see if that works. I have not checked my EVIC to see if its one of the features you can turn on and off.
That procedure didn't work. It's in the same mode it was the last time that I had a dead battery 2-years ago.

Hit the start button 2 times on the FOB, and all it does is lock the doors and flash the headlights.

Apparently this is a dealer-activated issue. I'll walk around the extended EVIC menu's to see if there is an activation, but I doubt it. I think it's a dealer-option (standard on the SRT's), so if you lose power to the computers, you're out of luck. Which blows. If it is a dealer option, - what ever happened to putting it in 'firmware' ? Didn't the days of 'volatile memory chips' go out with the 70's/80's ?

Thanks for any help anyone can cobble up. Looks like I'm off to the parts store to buy a new battery too.

With my recent dead battery situation the other day (that got me into this pickle), I charged the battery with 1 10-Amp charger for ~12 hours, and it didn't start this morning. Jumped it with the truck and drive it for over an hour. Let it sit for !15 minutes, and tried to start it. After a slow and dim dash: raw-raw, pause, raw, and it fired up. Was the slowest/lamest start I ever heard (couldn't believe it started actually). Not a good situation.

I could take it back to Matson to get some pro-rated coverage on it (since it's a 72-month battery) and was just replaced 2-years ago under the battery/cable recall, but I don't even want to deal with all of that hassle.

Optima doesn't appear to make a Group: 7H battery (although, they might have one that fits). I'mna head up to NAPA to see what they have for Group 7H's. Hopefully they have one with a side drain tube like this one. I don't know if the drain tube is part of the group 7H specification or not, - I'll let you know.

Sucks about losing Remote Start when the battery goes dead.
 

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So I'm still cleaning up after my second dead battery incident. I still can't get the windows recalibrated using any of the prescribed methods listed in the various threads, so I'll keep playing with that.

However, just like the last time I had a dead battery, I lost the remote start feature again. Last time I took it to the dealer, and they mentioned something in the paper work about reprogramming that "feature" back in (see my posts on page 3 of this thread) :

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/woke-up-stone-dead-battery-morning-65980/index3.html

The car is out of warranty now, and the thought of a trip back down to Tom Matson in Seattle gives me the willies.

Q: Can anyone confirm that the remote start is a programed feature that will go away if you lose power to any of the computers for an extended time (like having a stone dead battery for any length of time) ?

If so, is there any other alternative to getting the Remote Start feature re-enabled, and/or re-programed back in ?

If not, maybe I'll just learn to forget about that feature and live without it? Probably safer anyhow since I park the car in the garage, and there's been at least one incident where I bent over in the garage with my key in the pocket, and the car started in the garage (with the door closed), and I think one incident outside too.

Anyone have experience with Remote Start and dead batteries (and how to get it back after a dead battery) ?
Chances are there is a stored fault in the PCM causing the remote start to not work( low battery fault) I would check the PCM for codes and clear them with a code reader or Diablo programer. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wouldn't the extended EVIC menu show a MIL code ? And wouldn't it go away after 3 successful restarts anyways ?

All I have is a (decent) ODB-II device, that was current to 2004 models. Wonder if that would work ?

Does anyone know off the top of their head where the ODB-II port is ? (not out near the car now).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update: (re DTC codes...)

I did this procedure that I found on YouTube) :


It actually works as shown in the video. On my 2009 SRT, I popped out the Keyless Go button, put the FOB in as the key, and did his ACC,ON,ACC,ON,ACC,ON, and the lines came up, and then went to -dOnE-, so I assume that it didn't find any codes. Don't know if that procedure displays "stored" codes, or pending codes. Maybe it only does active ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So again , did you try to reset it with the key?
I tried every combination that I could think of with locking, and unlocking the drivers door with the metal key in the bottom of the key FOB to no avail.

Tom Matson (dealership) wants $120 just to put it on the Star Scan to look at it. Total suckage ...

I thought I was on top of my game when I bought a decent ODB-II reader years ago, but now it seems like we need a StarScan machine too, which, last time I checked was pushing $2,000.

Seems the electronics degree isn't helping me much here. I got every piece of high-end electronics test gear, and advanced digital O'scope known to man, and can program Arduino controllers and PIC chips to do sophisticated and amazing things, but I can't re-activate my Remote Start function on my stupid car. Seems maybe I bought the wrong car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Yes lock and unlock your door. Don't open it . Hit the button twice. If the horn beeps once your battery still is under charged. Drive it awhile then repeat
The battery is not undercharged. I floated it down to .165 Amps at 14.2 volts on a lab grade powder supply, so it is properly topped off.

Messing with the key and/or locking, and unlocking the doors isn't going to do anything to fix the Remote Start feature as the two are completely unrelated.

With more research, it seems that this is a common problem/side effect of the dreaded dead battery situation, at least on the SRT's - when battery is restored/recharged, the Remote Start feature no longer works.

There are at least three threads (that I've read so far) on challenger forum z . com where dead battery situations resulted in the same thing and they had to take it to the dealer :

http://www.challenger forum z.com/archive/index.php/f-25.html (remove the spaces in the URL)

At this point, I need help in contacting Chrysler to file a complaint. It's unacceptable to have to keep taking (and PAYING) the dealer to reprogram the Remote Start feature back in when it's a STANDARD feature on the SRT.

Can anyone help me in running this up the flag pole with Chrysler ? The car is out of warranty, but I shouldn't require dealer intervention every time my battery goes dead to get features that I paid for reprogrammed back in.

Are there any dealer/tech reading this in the Seattle area with access to a StarScam/StarMOBILE that I can pay a few bucks under the table to get my Remote Start feature re-activated ?

If I'da known that the stupid Remote Start feature was basically a subscription service, I would have never bought the car!
 

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I tried every combination that I could think of with locking, and unlocking the drivers door with the metal key in the bottom of the key FOB to no avail.

Tom Matson (dealership) wants $120 just to put it on the Star Scan to look at it. Total suckage ...

I thought I was on top of my game when I bought a decent ODB-II reader years ago, but now it seems like we need a StarScan machine too, which, last time I checked was pushing $2,000.

Seems the electronics degree isn't helping me much here. I got every piece of high-end electronics test gear, and advanced digital O'scope known to man, and can program Arduino controllers and PIC chips to do sophisticated and amazing things, but I can't re-activate my Remote Start function on my stupid car. Seems maybe I bought the wrong car.
I checked my EVIC and the remote start can be turned on and off. It may have gone back to default which is off. If you go into the EVIC and go to personnel settings, page through until you see remote start. See if its on or off. If its off turn it on. What year is your car and do you know how to get into the Electronic vehicle information system (EVIC). THI IS SOMETHING YOU CAN DO YOURSELF. I am willing to meet you half way some where to help with the EVIC if you need it. I am in N.E. Tacoma.
 

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The battery is not undercharged. I floated it down to .165 Amps at 14.2 volts on a lab grade powder supply, so it is properly topped off.

Messing with the key and/or locking, and unlocking the doors isn't going to do anything to fix the Remote Start feature as the two are completely unrelated.

With more research, it seems that this is a common problem/side effect of the dreaded dead battery situation, at least on the SRT's - when battery is restored/recharged, the Remote Start feature no longer works.

There are at least three threads (that I've read so far) on challenger forum z . com where dead battery situations resulted in the same thing and they had to take it to the dealer :

http://www.challenger forum z.com/archive/index.php/f-25.html (remove the spaces in the URL)

At this point, I need help in contacting Chrysler to file a complaint. It's unacceptable to have to keep taking (and PAYING) the dealer to reprogram the Remote Start feature back in when it's a STANDARD feature on the SRT.

Can anyone help me in running this up the flag pole with Chrysler ? The car is out of warranty, but I shouldn't require dealer intervention every time my battery goes dead to get features that I paid for reprogrammed back in.

Are there any dealer/tech reading this in the Seattle area with access to a StarScam/StarMOBILE that I can pay a few bucks under the table to get my Remote Start feature re-activated ?

If I'da known that the stupid Remote Start feature was basically a subscription service, I would have never bought the car!
Its not a subscription service go to the evic and turn it back on.
 

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OP, are you getting just 2 years from a battery? That seems to me to be a low life cycle. Try the evic too to turn R/S back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
OP, are you getting just 2 years from a battery?
Well, I dunno. Not certain that the battery is technically bad per-se, but based on my knowledge of batteries, and battery design, the battery float voltage current indicates that it might be.

After this recent 'dead battery situation', I've floated the battery up to 14.5 volts for 8 hours, and the in-vehicle current was ~400 milliamps. Currently it's sitting (in-vehicle) at 160 milliamps at 13.8 volts, and 140 milliamps at 13.5 volts which seems high. I'll have to isolate the battery from the vehicle to see how much of that 140 milliamps is battery float current, and how much of it is vehicle drain.

From what I seem to recall from previous research, quiescent vehicle current drain should be about 35 milliamps for this vehicle. Healthy flooded cell battery float current should be about 40-50 milliamps for a battery of this size. If that is the case, then there might be as much as 65+ milliamps excess leakage which typically indicates shorting/bridging between plates in the battery.

Try the evic too to turn R/S back on.
heh, - don't I wish that is was just that simple. The reality is, that this is not a user setting, - it is a dealer-enabled option.
 
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