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Took my car to the dealer they told me I need all new lifters and camshaft and gaskets . I’m quoted at 7k this seems high should I find a smaller shop to do the work or get a new engine ? I’m at 91k miles this is a 2015 Dodge Challenger rt . Also where can I buy a new engine I’m not seeing it on the mopar website
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That price is outrageous. If you don't plan on keeping your car very long I would find another shop to put in a new cam and lifters.

If you plan on keeping your car for a while you might consider getting something like this below and then everything is brand new not just the cam and valve train on an old engine.

 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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A complete new, engine with flywheel and clutch...for <$6000. Man I was looking at clutches the other day and a kit is like $1500...heck just a supercharger kit runs $7000. IMO I would go for a complete new engine. Although having a clutch it is probably a motor for an M6 trans so no MDS...which I consider a plus.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Took my car to the dealer they told me I need all new lifters and camshaft and gaskets . I’m quoted at 7k this seems high should I find a smaller shop to do the work or get a new engine ? I’m at 91k miles this is a 2015 Dodge Challenger rt . Also where can I buy a new engine I’m not seeing it on the mopar website View attachment 1030808
In the past I have seen numbers like $3K, $3500, and maybe even one $4K when others provided their final cost to get this done at a dealership. Even if we factor in inflation, that price this dealership quoted you seems absurdly high.

Did they provide a breakdown by chance of how they arrived at that amount?

Also, most competent Indy auto repair shops can do this just as well as a dealership can, and they will almost always be cheaper having it done at a dealership, most assuredly they will be cheaper than having it done at this dealership.
 

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2011 gwe srt
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what id be considering along with price is what damage the metal from your cam and lifters did to the rest of the bearings.
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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Welcome to Challengertalk ;) That is a Dodge dealer? Did they give you a cost breakdown of the work? Also, I thought if there was metal wear, the VVT solenoid had to be changed as well?

A Guy
 

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2014 Shaker Boosted 392 Stroker M6
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This sounds like your chance to put a performance cam in it, and if you can afford it, add forged internals while the engine is torn apart. BTW, did you laugh at the service writer when he gave you the quote?
 

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2019 1320 ScatPack PBM
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That price is outrageous. If you don't plan on keeping your car very long I would find another shop to put in a new cam and lifters.

If you plan on keeping your car for a while you might consider getting something like this below and then everything is brand new not just the cam and valve train on an old engine.

...or even move up in engine size?
 

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2021 SPWB Shaker A8
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The price is outright robbery. Good opportunity to swap in a hotter cam if you have the work done anyway, but run away (do not walk) from the shop that gave you that quote. They think they have you over a barrel because the car showed up DOA. Have it towed out.
 

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2016 Challenger R/T Plus Shaker
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I agree that the price quote is too high. Take your Challenger elsewhere to be fixed, whether you swap engines or just replace the cam and lifters. Also, make sure that you get all your parts back when you take your Challenger out of that shop. If you go with the cam and lifters replacement, you will need the heads and other parts to complete the engine. If you go with a remanufactured engine, you'll need the pieces to put together a "core" engine to send back to get your core deposit back.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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That price to me appears rather high. Higher than I would expect. Would definitely shop around.

At 91K did the engine otherwise run ok? Was oil consumption reasonable?

My thinking is at 91K miles the engine could be fine or in need of additional work. You get the new cam, lifters installed along with all the rest of the hardware up there that needs to be replaced and then you find the engine is weak or manifesting issues from the cylinders or even the rod or main bearings.

After the engine has been buttoned up is the wrong time to learn the engine needed attention elsewhere.

Trouble is one can't know until the engine is removed and torn down and the engine inspected and critical dimensions -- bearing diameters, cylinder diameters, etc. -- measured and a determination made as what is the best course of action.

You could just take the risk and assume the rest of the engine is ok. Just because it has 91K miles doesn't mean the lower end is shot. With regular oil changes -- and a bit of luck -- the lower engine can go 2 or 3 times that 91K miles with no issues.

You would have to balance the cost (and risk) of doing the above vs. a crate engine. If you can get the same engine in crate form it is a pretty much drop in job to replace the original engine with the crate engine.
 

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I had the lifters and cam replaced on my 5.7 Ram. It was about $3600. Here’s the invoice with all the parts and prices listed.

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I'd invest in the 392 crate engine. There's suppose to be something "better" about it vs the production 392.
 

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I'd invest in the 392 crate engine. There's suppose to be something "better" about it vs the production 392.
Not exactly plug and play...need new midpipes (might as well get larger catback as the 2015 only had 2.5" exhaust), would need a new PCM or reprogram (not sure if reprogramming would enable SRV but AES can be deactivated since 2015 RT never had it) the one he's got, need different motor mounts, need evap purge setup from a scat, I would also drop in a 392 radiator/hoses and I think he would also need an oil cooler as well. Probably some other misc stuff I am missing.
 

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I believe the Mopar tech is supposed to inspect the screen in the VVT actuator for debris and if they find metal there, they're supposed to do an engine and not a cam/lifters. If that screen has debris, that means the engine is full of metal debris because to get there they have had to travel through the pump and filter.

This stuff isn't cheap to fix.
 

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id grab a crate engine and put it in myself before i gave that dealer a penny...i think he figures he has you bent over cause the car is not drivable?
 

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Maybe it's me but a used 5.7 that would just bolt in would be my first choice. At 91k what are you looking to do with a new, new (new) engine?

Seriously, a 5.7, a rented cherry picker, beer, pizza, bunch of buddies, appropriate fluids and about 8-10 hours and you are back in business for 1500. Plus, it would be a blast.

Old school.... Roll up your sleeves and get your knuckles bloody!
 

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I believe the Mopar tech is supposed to inspect the screen in the VVT actuator for debris and if they find metal there, they're supposed to do an engine and not a cam/lifters. If that screen has debris, that means the engine is full of metal debris because to get there they have had to travel through the pump and filter.

This stuff isn't cheap to fix.
I believe that's for the 6.4 only. The 5.7 can be repaired.
 
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