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Yesterday I received the last of the parts needed to do my pad and rotor replacement. Took about 2.5 hours start to finish, including taking pics and such.

I've posted the process and pics here...

Tech: Replacing pads and rotors on a 2011 Challenger R/T - Fast Mopars

Overall it was pretty painless and after the initial bedding they feel really good, apparently they will get even better after a few hundred miles or so.

Rear before:


Rear after:
 
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Thanks for the write up I've got a couple years to go before hitting 30K but if you continue to be happy with the mod in the mean time I might give it a shot at that point :)

Take it easy
Jay
 

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Did my brakes about 3 months ago and went with new rotors up front and new pads all around. For the rotors I went with EBC ultimax slotted from autoanything for $187. I only did the front as far as rotors go cause the back rotors don't or shouldn't get as much wear on them. For pads I went with the ceramic Gold Duramax pads from Autozone. Lifetime guarantee on them and when they wear out you bring them back in and they give you a new box, can't beat that. The job is pretty easy and beats spending money at the dealership or some shop. Car stops better and got rid of that awful shaking that would occur at times from the front right. That was due to a warped factory rotor I believe. The factory rotors on the RT are junk in my opinion. In all spent around $300 and should good for another 2 years I would say. Great write up, I love these write ups such good info.
 

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Great tech post.

I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but for anyone else reading this, also read this thread:
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f79/r-t-owners-heres-your-affordable-big-brake-solution-70169/

I replaced my fronts with the Serious Metal brackets, SRT front rotors, and standard Corvette (GM) pads. Great set up.
I've read that post in the past, my only problem with that setup is that you're just adding more metal without increasing the friction. There is a bunch of rotor that never gets touched by the pads which I feel is just wasted space and the larger rotors are adding more weight. Even with the stock R/T rotors there is some of the inner rotor surface that doesn't get touched.

If/When I do a big brake upgrade it'll be to a proper 6/4 piston setup from AP Racing, StopTech, etc. I don't want to feel like I'm hacking something together. :)
 

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Thanks for the write up. It will be a few years before I do mine, but good to have a reference point.

Let us know how they do on the track (road course) on your next trip compared to your original setup.
 

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When you compress the calipers in loosen the bleeder to get the Debree out of the system instead of pushing it into the system. If the junk gets into the antilock valves it isnt a good thing....just food for thought..
 

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When you compress the calipers in loosen the bleeder to get the Debree out of the system instead of pushing it into the system. If the junk gets into the antilock valves it isnt a good thing....just food for thought..
I'm not sure where debris would come from since it's a sealed system, but my brake fluid was flushed a couple thousand miles ago.

Definitely more than one way to skin a cat, depending on how many miles/years people get out of their brakes it might be a good idea to plan on a fluid flush as well. Should be done every 2-3 years, IMO.
 

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I've read that post in the past, my only problem with that setup is that you're just adding more metal without increasing the friction. There is a bunch of rotor that never gets touched by the pads which I feel is just wasted space and the larger rotors are adding more weight. Even with the stock R/T rotors there is some of the inner rotor surface that doesn't get touched.

If/When I do a big brake upgrade it'll be to a proper 6/4 piston setup from AP Racing, StopTech, etc. I don't want to feel like I'm hacking something together. :)
I'm under the impression that the swept area is a bit larger and the Corvette pads are of a shape to better handle that larger area. Your point is taken though, it would have to be a very small increase if any.

However, after dealing with the warped OEM rotors, I welcome the increased size of the SRT rotors to fight furture warping.
 
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