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Seems like you could load an updated Tune if you went with a newer engine. They offer the Harness with it includes the PCM. Any issues just using a new PCM?
in some application, different sensor and tuning will overcome it, however we have seen some unusual issues, and some that only replacement of the tone ring will fix
 

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for example if your going to use the plug and play system from Mopar and plan on using a used engine, make sure its a 2014 or newer engine
 

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Is that the hootus that the Crankshaft Position Sensor keys on when sending its signals on down the line to the PCM?

I’m envisioning those teeth on the tone ring being what the sensor detects, and it knows how to translate that into a useable position within the rotation of the crank...

Am I even close or waaaaay off?
Pretty much the way it works. The crankshaft position sensor is a Hall Effect sensor and the movement of the teeth past the sensor results in a voltage pulse which is supplied to the engine controller and probably drives a hardware timer. The long toothless/empty gap coupled with the long gap with with no spaces allows the engine controller to figure out which of the other pulses generated by the passing teeth maps to which cylinder. The controller knows then when to trigger the fuel injector, the spark, and also measures the amount of acceleration each cylinder contributes and if one is under (or over) performing will use this to log a misfire error code.

I've never seen one of these inside the block. For my Porsche cars there was a flywheel mounted toothed ring and the crankshaft sensor bolted to the side of the block and the sensor then was partially inside the bell housing.

I'll post a link to pic that is representative of what this looks like: (You'll have to click on the "click to enlarge" at the small pic in the link to get the larger image.)

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/SC/131-08000011.html?utm_content=SC&utm_term=1997-2012+Porsche+Boxster+Flywheel+Aasco+97-12+Porsche+Flywheel+2009+2011&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9pSgk9zm3wIVgR-tBh00xAaoEAQYAyABEgJyWvD_BwE&ad=47433965052#immersedview


The black toothed ring can be seen on the flywheel.
 

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Regarding the crank sensor wheel, I thought as long as the replacement engine also was VVT there should be no issues. BTW I think the crate PCM comes with no SKIM which is great if you are doing a resto mod but not sure how it plays with the modules on the car?

https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/engine/57l-hemi-anatomy/
"The original Gen III motor came with NGC so it had the 32 tooth crank sensor wheel, but they stepped up to a 58 tooth sensor wheel on the new motor because the computer “needed more immediate and accurate information on the position of the crankshaft during rotation” so it could control and coordinate MDS and VVT along with direct ignition and all of the other electronics used on these engines.

Keep in mind that it deactivates four cylinders in firing order sequence, with the exhaust valve closed, in about 10 milliseconds when the computer commands MDS. That’s less time than it takes the cam to make one revolution at anything much above an idle, so the VVT motors needed a 58 tooth crank sensor wheel along with a 4X cam sensor and a faster PCM."

Ah, did not know about the different tooth widths...thanks Luke!
http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB112017-1.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #26
First of all I’d like to thank everyone for the response on this topic.

The reason why I was looking at the crate motor is when you add in the core charge intake replacement and clutch and pressure plate to the long block the crate motor price is considerably cheaper.

I’m a little worried about salvage motors even with low mileage due to valve train issues. I don’t want to chew up another motor at 55k again.
 

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First of all I’d like to thank everyone for the response on this topic.

The reason why I was looking at the crate motor is when you add in the core charge intake replacement and clutch and pressure plate to the long block the crate motor price is considerably cheaper.

I’m a little worried about salvage motors even with low mileage due to valve train issues. I don’t want to chew up another motor at 55k again.

Salvage motors are a roll of the dice.


A new crate motor for around $6K ain't bad. (I priced a replacement engine for my 2002 Boxster: $26K without core, $17K with core; fortunately I didn't need a replacement engine I was just being curious.)


It is the relatively low price of a replacement engine for USA cars that to me is an attraction. One can "resurrect" an otherwise good car/truck with a new factory motor.
 

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not quite true, thats a non MDS engine meant for pro touring and resto mod, however it is a current build, so latest and greatest, the issue with installing in a pre 2014 is the tone ring, different tone ring which can be a huge issue, much better to replace with a Mopar long block assembly if you have a failure and probably much cheaper
Luke
It's a manual transmission so it doesnt have MDS anyway so that wont be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I like to thank everyone for their input on this matter. I decided to go with a custom build on the motor I have.... eliminating all the Mopar problems with the valves and pistons... I’ll keep everyone posted on this and should be up and running in a month.
 
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