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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2014 SXT. Got the dreaded ABS/TC light show and decided to check the wheel speed sensors, since everyone seems to have a problem with them. Both front sensors are reading open (infinite ohms) which I assume is bad. Haven't checked the rears yet since the fronts kicked my butt.

Front sensors are supposed to "just wiggle out," yes? Mine are stuck in place due to corrosion. Stopped prying on them before I broke something. Anyone know how to get these little bastards out, other than tearing it down to the spindles and poking them out from the front? For obvious reasons I'd rather not do that. Go full cave-man and chisel 'em out? Open to suggestions.

I'm assuming both fronts are bad due to the open-circuit reading. 800-2000 ohms is the correct reading, yes? I don't have a code reader that will do these, so I'm going old-school on the diagnosis.
 

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2016 Challenger R/T Plus Shaker
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I have never checked resistance on wheel speed sensors, so I can't give any advice that is based on knowledge. I have never seen ( but I won't say it is not possible) two defective WSSs at the same time. As for getting them out, I will use a drill bit, a little under sized, and carefully drill into the sensor. This is after trying to get them loose using a little penetrating oil and carefully trying to pull and twist with pliers. The rear WSSs are easier to get out, at least in my experience.
 

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2011 SXT Built in the Canada Plant
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The sensors go to the back side of each wheel Brake Dust shield usually mounted down low on the rear they run to the inner wheel wheel Middle under a Cover.
there is 4 of them on your car you need a good ODBII to know which one is bad, Autozone Sells the sensors I replaced my Right Rear on last OCT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I need to get the codes scanned. Tested a new sensor at the store, and it reads open too. So either the new one is bad (unlikely) or I'm testing it wrong (plausible).

While I was under the car I managed to poke myself with a pick tool and my finger got infected, so I'll be out of action for a few days while that heals. What the hell, it's more fun to drive like this anyway.

I've got an old OBD2 scanner that plugs into my laptop. Dunno if it'll read ABS codes or not, but it won't cost anything to find out. We'll see if I can do it with nine working fingers.
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Neither my antique OBD2 reader or AutoZone's could read the code, so off to the dealer. Dealer says RR is bad. Mopar sensor, $30. Easy install.

Lights are still on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Relevant codes:
U140C- Implausible RR WSS signal received
C003A-62- RR WSS signal compare failure
U0415-00 Invalid data from ABS control module A

Horseback guess from the service rep: "something in the wiring." $135 and drop off to diagnose.
 

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If I remember correctly, the left and right wheel speed sensors are interchangeable. I would swap them side to side, clear the codes and see if the codes come back for the opposite side. If so, just replace the defective sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've already replaced one RR sensor that probably wasn't faulty, and still have the same codes for faulty RR sensor. Besides, it's a half hour drive to the dealer just to get the code read.

According to the internet (that faultless source of information) some RAM trucks do this, too. Turns out to be over-tightened zip ties on the wiring harness. I'll poke around in the trunk tomorrow.

Another possible solution is pulling the ABS fuse to reset the module.

As far as R/L interchange, they are interchangeable only on the front wheels. The LR sensor wire comes across the bottom of the trunk pan to enter at the same place as the RR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Like the bear who went over the mountain, I went to see what I could see. And I saw:

Harness was rubbing the battery hold-down. Only the WSS's use this exit from the trunk, so it looked promising. Above this, the 4 wires enter the main harness.
Explored some, peeled off the tape. Some chafing on the insulation, but no wires were broken. Reassembled with extra tape and a guard on the edge of the hold-down. Funny how they use a giant rubber grommet to prevent it chafing on the trunk pan and then let it chafe all it wants up here.
Just putting this out there even though it wasn't my problem. It could turn out to be your problem.
 

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2018 Challenger R/T Plus - Billet Clearcoat
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I thought the speed sensor was only in the front? If their are sensors also in the back wouldnt that conflict when you change tire sizes and go bigger in the rear if they arent real close to the same diameter?
 

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The speedometer get's it's signals only from the front sensors on 2015+. -2014 has a sensor on the transmission

A Guy
 

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The speedometer get's it's signals only from the front sensors on 2015+. -2014 has a sensor on the transmission

A Guy
Thats what i thought
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Today I learned that the hub bearing has an electronic component that interacts with the sensor:


Why the spiffy code reader condemns the sensor and not the bearing is anyone's guess.
Test by spinning the wheel with the sensor connected to an o-scope. That's my next step. I don't have an o-scope but a shop nearby (closer and cheaper than the dealer) does.
 

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The electrical component that interacts with the sensor is the tone ring or tone wheel. On the Challenger it is a magnetic shield on the inboard side of the wheel bearing. It is possible for it to have an issue, but rare because it has no actual electrical connection to the system. It works by magnetic induction in the sensor. It can be compromised by anything that interferes with the magnetic field.
 
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